99 Schwinn Pro Stock

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Recap
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Using as many of the Schwinn XS parts as possible, most were beat up so they got polished.
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Here's where I'm at.
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CW racing repro bars, XS forks, XS stem, FSA headset(disassembled cleaned and regreased), XS 180mm cranks, stripped black auto urethane paint, spindle and all hardware replated, new bearings. Haro Fusion 44t, XS seat post stripped and repainted black auto urethane, polished XS seat clamp, ebay china special carbon seat.

Weinmann 519 rims, anodizing stripped in lye, polished, heated to 150 and turtle wax ice baked on and polished out.
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I'll be using GT mohawk hubs that I'm converting from loose ball to sealed bearings. Got the bearings, waiting on some material to do the conversion. Will post details.

Have a bag of 100 195mm chrome spokes, think I can use them if I run 4X, will give it a shot.
 
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Cool looking frame and awesome job polishing those hoops! Those look great.
+1 on the hoops! And, Chad T knows his polishing...that's high praise for you! :21:
I can't believe you got all the anodizing off?! :43:Lye you say? Maybe a tutorial for this would be cool, I know I'd follow it!
 
I can't believe you got all the anodizing off?! :43:Lye you say? Maybe a tutorial for this would be cool, I know I'd follow it!

+1... I think that might be what's in oven cleaner? Have used that to remove the anodizing a few times but haven't heard of the lye technique.
 
Stole the method from this thread, red devil or drano crystals http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=110989

1/3 cup of drano crystals per gallon of water. An oil drain pan from Walmart with the top cut off fits a 20" 406 rim perfectly. I filled a gallon jug with water to displace liquid in the tub so I didn't have to use as much chemical.

I've used oven cleaner before, its touchy and has always etched and spotted my parts requiring more sanding. It has some additional chemicals. This removed the anodizing well without the "side effects" and worked better.

I used 360 in a 1/4 sheet electric sander on the edges, then 500, 600, some by hand. Finer grit would have helped.

Polished with 2 compounds on buffing wheel. The compound was burning in worse than I've ever had, so I switched to dupont 7 rubbing compound for paint and buffed wet. Made a heck of a mess but it cut and polished.

Then strapped a piece of denim to the 1/4 sheet sander and used mothers.

Washed and wiped everything down, piled on turtle wax ice. I thought this stuff was gimmicky at first but tried it on some plastic trim, then on my daily driver. It lasts longer. Nice cars still get carnuba.

Gobbed on the ICE, heated the oven to 175, put the rims in the oven, turned the oven off, let them get up to temp then cool enough to be handled.
Gobbed on more ICE and polished it in.

My thinking was heating them up would open the porous surface and baking the wax on would get the best seal. Not sure if it will last any longer, but unlaced is the time to do it.

When youre done with the drano, it's a base, so neutralize with mild acid (vinegar) or just dump it down the drain.
 
Schwinn really out did themselves on the Pro Stock frames...I've come close to buying a couple of 24 Pro Stocks the last couple years, but haven't pulled the trigger. Maybe this build will inspire me to get the next one that comes around :)

Cool build!
Jason
 
Schwinn really out did themselves on the Pro Stock frames...I've come close to buying a couple of 24 Pro Stocks the last couple years, but haven't pulled the trigger. Maybe this build will inspire me to get the next one that comes around :)

Cool build!
Jason
There's a 24" prostock on ebay, black, that I've been watching. Would be very cool to have a 20 and 24. I really like this frame, can't wait to ride it. These things were like $600 new - back then. If I can find some six shooter hubs that are priced well, I'll build a different wheelset for it.
 
Got some parts in the mail today. I'm converting the GT mohawk hubs from loose ball to sealed bearing. These came as sealed and loose originally with different axles, so it's been done before.

I'm gonna try to do sealed bearings with the loose ball axles.

I'll post up pics and tech, if this goes the way I'm thinking, it could be applied to different hubs as well.
 
Hi, I wanted to ask about the treatment of the rims. 'Polished, heated, turtle wax...and polished again? What is that doing? Thanks.
Don't know, total experiment. Only polished (buffer) once, applied wax prior to heat, then applied again when hot. Surface of the rim has porosity even when polished, by heating it up the aluminum will expand opening up the porous surface, applying the wax on the expanded porous surface should have the best chance of sealing it. I went to 150 or so because rims can get that hot sitting in the sun in the summer, may not be enough, but I didn't want to overdo it and warp them.
I'll update how they look over time, but there's no definitive way to tell unless I heated 1 rim, and didn't heat the other and tested results over time.
 
Got the parts to do the sealed conversion experiment and it just didn't work out. Was trying to make a sleeve out of 8x10 stainless tubing to thread on the OG axles, just kept distorting or crushing. Don't want to buy new axles, so these are staying loose ball. If anyone needs some 10x26x8 or 10x30x8 sealed bearings let me know.

Rear hub rebuilt, laced 4X tonight. I'll post some pics when I can get them in the sun. Polished rims, chrome spokes, silver hubs, these things are all flash
 

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