Finally figured out the pictures, crappy iphone photo though. For some reason this doesn't work at work ..
Got the GTO here in Victoria BC Canada.
My first bike after I broke my CCM Mustang was a Sekine 10 spd so this one brings back memories.
Hoping to find those "Special Fine-Tires" somewhere .
When I figured out that you were in Canada I realized that you likely did have a GTO. Good Stuff.
At the time that I had mine there was one for sale in Victoria and a 3 in middle Alta. from one seller.
I don't have contact info, but the Alta seller helped me out with a taillight lense and also had tires at that time. I had considered hoarding them and starting my own gang as in the above pics.
You have a pretty solid start ther that should clean up well- solid bikes.
Aww too bad you don't have that contact number, if I could get those tires and maybe some of the plastics that would be killer.
The decals on this one are mostly shot too.
Also I should go and post that intro you mentioned ..
Jeff
So I finally got around to cleaning up the GTO and have found that the shifter won't hold the deraileur in position; I assume it's a friction shifter? The .... center cap screw is stripped and I can't tighten it any more.
So I finally got around to cleaning up the GTO and have found that the shifter won't hold the deraileur in position; I assume it's a friction shifter? The .... center cap screw is stripped and I can't tighten it any more.
yes, Friction shift for that era of 5 speed der system.
Take it apart, clean all surfaces, grease the threads and reassemble. The screw is probably metric. You can use any that matches the threads, isn't too long and has the look you want: philips head, slotted screw, hex nut head, hex socket bolt, etc. With a striped screw, there is probably a small amount of stripage in the nut part (welded to the back plate) so you should use the correct threads to prevent more damage to the nut.
On a regular friction shifter there is just the one machine screw that holds everything together AND adjusts the friction. On some of those muscle bike shifters, there is a separate screw for the cap and a nut/bolt inside that adjusts the friction (as in cap needs to be removed to adjust). I've seen some that have a hollow friction adjusting bolt that is threaded in the hollow part for the dust cap screw.
Avoid drilling if you can. Figure the screw is toast but you don't want to damage the threads inside. Try all the screw drivers you have first. Find one that can get a grip on the screw. Try some wd-40 and let that soak in.
Sometimes tapping the screw driver with a hammer can help shake the screw loose. There are reverse thread 'easyouts' but I've rarely had any luck with those and most aren't small enough.
Got the screw out without drilling and have it all apart. It appears the only possible friction element is a dished flat washer which relies on pressure from the machine screw. Will have to find a thicker dished washer as the screw bottoms out on the housing before enough pressure can be applied.
Thanks for your help
Put in an additional teflon washer and it seems to work, thanks again for your help. Now if only I could find those IRC raised white letter tires, I'd be set.
Not if any harm could come from that. Not social media type. Led hear buy search for tail light lens and goal is find someone appreciate this odd bike. Feel free remove # as I see now simply respond thru this dialogue. Thx
