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500 Bike Bruce makes these……

Usually from unwanted step through’s

Super easy

Strip
Cut
PULL !!!!!

Everyone on here should have at least one!!!!!
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Nice work. I have been on the lookout for a donor frame to build one. No luck yet.
I got lucky on this: bought a truck load off a guy and I filled the thing up for $5 per bike; there was a drive and tolls, so all in, it was like $10 per bike all said and done

Tough to beat that deal…. A lot of rust but for $10 a bike, all in, I took it!
 
Cut up a Columbia? Oh wait, there's a BMA6 decal, have at it. :)
Ha-Ha! Well…. I tried like heck to sell it! then part it out! -still no takers!!!!

my yard is starting to look like Sanford and Son, so I had to make a move! :21:

I actually had a pair. I’m turning the other one into a garden planter!
 
I've made about 40 or 50 such bar/shop stools. all the donor bikes had frame damage. I sold a dozen to a guy with a food truck who parks next to a bike trail. A natural for bikers.

Of course you need a table to go with seats so I built one using a similar frame.





A regular saddle clamp, a couple of 5/16" rods and a rim. The rods were welded in place and the extra cut off. 3/8" pallet boards (Harbor Freight discards) were used for the top. Gorilla wood glued together. Sanded and varnished. Bevel cut so the wood would fit flat in the angled rim without a big gap. Held in place with a few screws through the spoke holes in the rim.



[


Bonus photo. Not mine One I saw at a flea market. Pretty cool. Lots of welding needed.

 
Any cool ideas on what to do with the cut off head and down tubes?
I have a bunch in various diameters to fit over different tool handles to use as cheater bars. As I get old and weak, I need the help.

cheater bar math.

pedal wrench
plus cheater bar
equals
snapped off pedal axle

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I've made about 40 or 50 such bar/shop stools. all the donor bikes had frame damage. I sold a dozen to a guy with a food truck who parks next to a bike trail. A natural for bikers.

Of course you need a table to go with seats so I built one using a similar frame.





A regular saddle clamp, a couple of 5/16" rods and a rim. The rods were welded in place and the extra cut off. 3/8" pallet boards (Harbor Freight discards) were used for the top. Gorilla wood glued together. Sanded and varnished. Bevel cut so the wood would fit flat in the angled rim without a big gap. Held in place with a few screws through the spoke holes in the rim.



[


Bonus photo. Not mine One I saw at a flea market. Pretty cool. Lots of welding needed.

Cool work! The frame I used had a kink in the chain stay area.
Question, how did you open up the chain stays that wide?
I used my foot on one side and pulled it apart, flipped and did the same to the other side. Curious about your method.
 
Cool work! The frame I used had a kink in the chain stay area.
Question, how did you open up the chain stays that wide?
I used my foot on one side and pulled it apart, flipped and did the same to the other side. Curious about your method.

My spine won't tolerate the foot and pull method. I always remove the seat stay bridge and the chain stay bridge. That makes it much easier to bend without kinking. Some frames have a very indented spot for chain ring clearance and they will want to kink there. I've used several methods. A couple of 2x4s about 4 feet long to pry them open. I lay the frame on the ground sideways with one 2x4 through it. Stand on the first and use the second 2x4 to lift and bend. I (we) did one cromo race frame. it took 4 guys to spread that one. Stick to carbon steel gas pipe frames. Schwinns, Huffys, etc. They are so much weaker, I can do those by myself. I have a couple of the Park Tool frame benders (FFS) but it's kinda awkward trying to use 2 at once but I can bend very specific spots using those. I started making these with a hack saw and hand file. Then switched to an angle grinder to remove the bridges to smooth off any sharp edges. A reciprocating saw can do the cuts pretty quick and then use the angle grinder to smooth. A kickstand tube on a ef Schwinn or Huffy has to come off so it will sit flat on the floor. I try to keep the decals intact and use basic colors so they touch up easy where the cutting/grinding happens. I've spray bombed a few that are hard to color match. My most recent was a Huffy fat bike. No need to spread the stays on that one. With all of them the key is to find a wide comfy saddle. I always reverse the seat clamp to move the center of gravity forward so the user is less likely to fall over backwards. And get that seat clamp bolt really tight. If the seat clamp serrations are worn, replace it. Getting dumped on your rear is no fun if the seat slips.

I'd seen these over 40 years ago at a bike shop. I now have access to endless junk bikes so I make all I need to sell to customers.
 
I've made about 40 or 50 such bar/shop stools. all the donor bikes had frame damage. I sold a dozen to a guy with a food truck who parks next to a bike trail. A natural for bikers.

Of course you need a table to go with seats so I built one using a similar frame.





A regular saddle clamp, a couple of 5/16" rods and a rim. The rods were welded in place and the extra cut off. 3/8" pallet boards (Harbor Freight discards) were used for the top. Gorilla wood glued together. Sanded and varnished. Bevel cut so the wood would fit flat in the angled rim without a big gap. Held in place with a few screws through the spoke holes in the rim.



[


Bonus photo. Not mine One I saw at a flea market. Pretty cool. Lots of welding needed.

Super awesome

I love to just google repurposed bike, frame, parts, etc. and see what people have done

Your work looks great!!!!
 
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