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This thing doesn't have a governor.

No luck on mine, it's rusted all the way through. The stem bolt was going to strip out if I tightened it any further. I'll just drill a hole through the stem, it doesn't need to be saved.

I have a frame with the same problem. I'll use your method and document it. Gives me something to do while waiting on the buildoff.

Just a cleaning is fine. I did some research as I knew very little about those bikes. "Through the 1950s and 1960s the frame numbers were usually 6 digits long. Usually stamped on the dropout or the BB shell. In the early 1970s, 7 digit frame numbers began to appear. (Sometimes on a metal...

Updated my post, 1966. If it only has one rear wheel for braking, I think it would pull to the left. I would try to add a brake to the front (no hole in the fork though) or maybe to the other rear wheel, although there's no attachment point.

Welcome aboard! That looks like late 60's early 70's AMF. I have a list of serial numbers at home I'll check to see what year "R" is. One wheel coaster brakes? The trike looks to be in good condition. The seatpost clamp had a handle in it to adjust the seat height easily. edit: I have 1966 for...

Must have been king of the trailer park.

Judging by the wear on the brake pads, that bike was barely ridden. It looks early 70's from the cottered cranks and components. Original tires too, they match. I would do like Ratrod did, dismantle and shine every part, then have a new looking bike. The chrome on that bike is probably good...

I think it was 72 when Emory picked up Snyder, the dropouts stayed the same as did the bikes they first built. Those were the best Emory bikes. I picked this one at a yard sale, sold it here to someone and they improved it.

Good choice! May have been made in Little Falls or Michigan City, 1933 would have U or B, 1934 would have V or C in the serial number.

The Hawthorne is Snyder built, around 1970. I don't see a letter before the number, and the info I have for those years is sketchy, but the dropouts are the later Snyder style. This one is 69 or 70, same as a Rollfast.

Waiting around to start building. I actually cleaned up the shop without being told to! This is as good as it gets, so I took a pic.

I've got a Suntour hub from the 80's that I made the same mistake with. I cut the spokes out, so the blame is all mine. I took it to the bike shop where they find ways to do everything. Except this problem. I used a vise but only gouged the hub. I even went as far to lace up the open side of the...

Can't go wrong with a Rollfast!

I may be building a frame, just using the headtube and bottom bracket from a scrap frame. I have questions on steel and bending steel. 1. What metal tubing will work for a home built frame? The shops around here won't know what tubing is for bikes, so I wonder what size and numbers thay would...

Welcome! A bamboo recumbent? I'd like to see that!

A Monark is a good start for a klunker. Does it have a nameplate under the cranks? As for a new headset, are you going to use the existing fork, or have another one in mind? A standard headset will probably fit the bike as is. I would agree with the other posters and go with a 3 piece...

That Huffman frame will work great as a BMX. If you wait a few days you could enter the build in the annual build off.

I would suggest taking the Racer, use 26" rims with 1.75 knobby tires, (or 1.90 might fit like this Continental). Then use a rear hub single speed, or 2 speed that has a coaster brake (like the yellow Varsity), or a drum brake if you can afford one. No cables and clean looking. It would look...