(WBO) Iday's Bike

Jan 21, 2009
7,832
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Mililani, Hawaii
I have just a few more parts to replace, but when I went to renew my tourist visa here, they doubled the price. So the first budget to get cut was the bike budget, until next month. I was going to make these bearings and cups work, but the spindle is pitted, as are the bearings, and the cup is cracked in 2 places. I'll see if I can get credit at the bike shop, they will enjoy the laugh.:21:
So, I may or may not make the deadline.

 
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Sep 14, 2013
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Bradley Illinoiz
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I struggled with a way to "hack together" my threadless headset, having never used or even seen one up close before, finally I broke down and ordered it, and I'm tight on funds right now too. But, like you, I ride my bikes and they gotta be 100%. GLWTB.

Carl.
 
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Jan 2, 2012
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I hear you wildcat,if it's not rideable for more than a day,then it's not worth building it until it can be ridden into the future.
I'm sure you will find the parts for it,and have it finished on time.
Have you tried looking for a old bmx or mtb,use the bearings and cups?
 
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Jan 21, 2009
7,832
5,867
Mililani, Hawaii
That's a good idea. There are a bunch of junk dealers here, lots of old bikes. Since this bike is Japanese, I'm guessing many of the parts I need will be on some of the junk bikes. They overcharge me by about 300% because I look rich to them, so I have a friend get them for me after I have a look at what they have.

I figured out a way to use the forks that have the bad threads. They are flattened right where the nut tightens, so I'll take the nut and grind the threads off so it goes on the bearings like a washer, then use a piece of pipe to use as a 2 inch spacer and use another nut to tighten it, hoping the threads are good higher up. The forks were a replacement years ago and the top was never trimmed off to fit, so I have extra space to work with, and I can have my handlebars at the right height using the extra fork tube. They should be about the same height as a 26" bike.

So I should make it just under the deadline. I'll check the timezone to see how much extra time I can use. I want to get the lugs outlined also, and still have to work on the brakes. The original center pull brakes are a problem.

I get my wheels tomorrow morning. I sure hope they have knobbies on them.

 
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Sep 14, 2013
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Bradley Illinoiz
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Put the spacer under your bottom race on your fork, it will lift your frame a bit but it will move the bad threads so you can use the top race without grinding out the threads....
It may be hard to get that bottom race loose, and when you raise it you'll need a bit of shim behind it but it will work...
 
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Jan 21, 2009
7,832
5,867
Mililani, Hawaii
Put the spacer under your bottom race on your fork, it will lift your frame a bit but it will move the bad threads so you can use the top race without grinding out the threads....
It may be hard to get that bottom race loose, and when you raise it you'll need a bit of shim behind it but it will work...
The forks have a little lip for the race at the bottom, so it will have play anywhere else, so the spacer has to go above the head tube.
I just picked up my wheels, good thing I paid for them ahead of time. They look good, stainless spokes with alloy rims.
He couldn't find a good set of 24" forks, but did get me a sealed headset. Just what I needed! I'll go over the forks again to see what I can make work now that I have all the old washers and nuts to use also.

 
Sep 14, 2013
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Bradley Illinoiz
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All the threaded forks I've ever seen have that lip... that's why you would need a bit of shim. Believe me, I've done this and it works well, just trying to help save some work grinding that top race's threads out. It would change the look and the way the bike sat so you might not want to try it anyway...

Carl.
 
Jan 21, 2009
7,832
5,867
Mililani, Hawaii
I just noticed a groove in the fork tube, about an inch or so above the crown. I thought it was just chrome peeled off, but it's a groove. I don't know what caused it, maybe it was ridden with the forks loose for a long time. It's pretty deep on the front half, so I don't trust these forks. I'm going to see what I can come up with tomorrow at the bike shop. A few coins have trickled into the bike fund!
 
Jan 21, 2009
7,832
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Mililani, Hawaii
Well, I got everything i need I think. I spent 32 dollars and came away with a few changes but that's what they had for parts. I now have BMX style fork (that's all they had in 24") with bosses for v brakes, so I added a set of those for the front. With the brake handles I like, so that takes care of the brake issues. I just have to learn how to install them. They only had an alloy seat stem long enough, so I can't use my leather seat. That's why I added a new seat to the mix. The handlebar stem isn't the kind I like, but it was the only one tall enough.
Tomorrow morning I start to put it all together.

 
Jan 21, 2009
7,832
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Mililani, Hawaii
Finishing it up. The v brakes didn't reach the front rim, so the side pull went on instead. Nothing worked on the rear, the pads were all an inch away from the rim so I checked the original worn out center pull brake, it has very short arms, so maybe I'll rebuild it later. But for this bike, the front brakes will be plenty.



The forks went on after I filed down the lip to fit the bottom race, then it needed a spacer for everything to go together, I didn't need to cut the top off.

 
Jan 21, 2009
7,832
5,867
Mililani, Hawaii
After testing it on the streets here, it did very well, but I wanted a lower 1st gear. I swapped the 19 tooth Sram cog for a 22 tooth KT cog from one of the 3G wheelsets I bought here. Same size fitting and I'll give it a try in a few minutes. I didn't need to add a chain link either.
Low gear is direct and high is 33% higher so it should be just right for cruising through traffic. I could have changed the chain wheel, as I have a 40 tooth of the same style as the 44 on there now. But the cotter pins are soft and need changed every time you remove them. I also added a mirror, a necessity for riding in traffic.
 
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