BO15 Unknown BMX bike - Maybe Western Flyer

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amecks

amecks

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Central New York State near the Erie Canal
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Hi. I posted some photos of bikes I've built in the Intros forum. My neighbor gave me this 20" bike a few years ago. I have no idea what it is (or was). I think its a Murray manufactured bike, possibly a Western Flyer. The serial number starts with M07 - or maybe it MO7 as in Murray Ohio 7. Here's a photo of it as received in August 2015...


After I adjusted and oiled it and rode it around the yard I immediately swapped in a 3 speed coaster brake with the "throttle" grip style shift. The brake was not working right and the bike got shoved to the back of the garage. Earlier this month I got it out and fixed the brake. At that point I was motivated and began a mock up. I put on a good set of tires, a chainguard and ordered fenders. Here's what it looks like with the fenders mounted about 5 days ago.

I selected some rattle can spray paints from my shelf - primer, silver, metallic black, metallic teal color and clear polyurethane - all purchased at a local dollar store for a buck a can.
The bike is now disassembled and I've begun fixing it up. I'll post some details and photos in a couple days.
Regards
Al
 
Welcome to the best custom vintage rat rod bike site on the internets! This forum is the best way to get in to the mix of what goes on in this community of creative minds and greasy hands.

That's a great bike to start and I like your fender / guard and tire upgrades already. Keep those detailed pre / in process / and post work photos and text coming!

RaT oN~!
 
Cool bike! MO7 is a 1977 Murray. They made a lot of different bikes using that same frame in the late 1970's including the NFL bikes sold at Sears stores. Looking at my 1977 Murray catalog it only shows one bike with that frame, front springer, seat shock struts and padded seat combination. The Top Cat MX bike.
025 (1024x768).jpg

Here's a picture of mine without the fenders, tank and number plates.
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Here's a picture of the serial number showing the model number 005758 after MO7.. Check your serial number. If it's the same then you have a Top Cat. If it's not then it probably was a Western Flyer badged bike which might have a different model number.
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Thanks for all the encouragement. And Fatlip - it's got the same numbers MO7 005758 - with a lower serial number starting with 2. Top Cat, eh? I like that.
I am building this for my wife, hoping she can ride it easily, since it is low to the ground compared to a 26" cruiser. She picked the greenish Teal color from my paint stash. She is a quilter so I will likely work a quilt block pattern into the paint job somehow. I found a badge for the headstock - off a 1900's Singer sewing machine...perfect size and it will have some people scratching their heads.
 
I used to love the Top Cat cartoon as a kid.
I really like that saddle on your Murray.

1590806516296.png
 
OK. I have some ideas to work a cat image in somehow. I have the frame stripped of paint and I'm sanding/wire wheeling. Also welded the dropouts because they were badly worn - one wide at the top, the other wide on the bottom edge.

When fitting the fenders I brazed on this bracket.

I think the BMX bike resembles a motorcycle with the forks and rear "shocks" and the added three speed "throttle" shifter and cable. I thought a headlight and taillight would help that look so I will see how these work. I added a good sized reflector on the rear fender and may try this also...

I found this nice Miller headlight and converted it with a 9 volt battery, rotary switch and LED bulb.

The blue pad keeps the battery from rattling around.


Oh yeah, I also have a speedometer I want to try. Although I doubt it is calibrated for 20" wheels.
Today I have to remember to get a photo of the spray paints I'm using.
 
I think I need a better name for this project. Not real good at naming stuff but the bike is no longer an "unknown BMX". It's a Top Cat so how about Top Cat-astrophe, a nod to the poor condition it was in.
The seat post tube clamp looks like the post may have been too small - its pinched in way far. I'll have to check the post to see if its the correct size.
The dropouts are done but the frame was over 1/4" out of whack. Now it sits square and the axle is centered.

The steering was off about 3/32" and is now straight.

The next step is to fill the dings of which there are more than a few. Also must touch up where the frame was clamped in a vice and left jaw marks. Then I can begin painting.
Here is the selection of paint that all came from Real Deals Dollar Store. Really good Krylon green primer, Metallic black, Silver, Metallic Teal bluish green, some green shimmer and silver glitter paint I may use for accents, and clear polyurethane.

All the parts boxed up. Some of the stuff is ready to use. Other bits need work. The wheels are done except to clean them, and the tires.

Can anyone tell me if I can use a 26" bike crank on this frame or do I have to stay with this slightly shorter arm crank?
Thanks
Al
 
Your wheel size will dictate your crank length as the wheels will raise / lower the bottom bracket height per size; higher BB for 26" and much lower BB for 20" wheels. The crank lengths do vary, so you want enough clearance for cornering and pedaling through corners.
 
amecks said:
I found this nice Miller headlight and converted it with a 9 volt battery, rotary switch and LED bulb.

The blue pad keeps the battery from rattling around.


Oh yeah, I also have a speedometer I want to try. Although I doubt it is calibrated for 20" wheels.
Today I have to remember to get a photo of the spray paints I'm using.
Click to expand...
Love the headlight conversion! I have done a couple of lights using the guts from LED flashlights. Am I seeing right that you're using an LED bulb with an old-school screw-in base? Where does one find such a creature, and are there different voltage options? Thanks!

Great build, by the way! Big fan of '70s BMX-styled bikes...
 
ParkRNDL said:
Love the headlight conversion! I have done a couple of lights using the guts from LED flashlights. Am I seeing right that you're using an LED bulb with an old-school screw-in base? Where does one find such a creature, and are there different voltage options? Thanks!

Great build, by the way! Big fan of '70s BMX-styled bikes...
Click to expand...


Came to ask the same thing ^^

:thumbsup:
 
You're lining up some cool accessories. Love that red glitter monster mudflap.
More than likely a crank would work fine, but you may need to be careful in the curves and watch how much you lean the bike. The pedals might scrape a little bit and warn you, or if they really grab, it can jack you up in a heartbeat. :D
 
I guess the only way to know is try the longer crank when the time comes. Thanks.
Well I searched Amazon for the light bulbs and the snap cap connector for the 9 volt battery. (Thought I had saved one or two but couldn't find em). I had the battery so searched for 9 volt LED bulb. Found bulb and battery connector which were shipped Prime from Amazon - 2 days.
Here's a link to the bulbs. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083Q5PHM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have 9 of these bulbs left. I can send two people 3 bulbs each. Email or PM me and we'll work something out.
 
amecks said:
I guess the only way to know is try the longer crank when the time comes. Thanks.
Well I searched Amazon for the light bulbs and the snap cap connector for the 9 volt battery. (Thought I had saved one or two but couldn't find em). I had the battery so searched for 9 volt LED bulb. Found bulb and battery connector which were shipped Prime from Amazon - 2 days.
Here's a link to the bulbs. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083Q5PHM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have 9 of these bulbs left. I can send two people 3 bulbs each. Email or PM me and we'll work something out.
Click to expand...


So did you use an E10 socket for the bulb, or did the light already have one?

This would probably be perfect for me but I'd have to figure out how to convert from the H4 base and huge hole in the reflector
 
The base was E10. All it does is hold the bulb. The brass contacts touch the base and the bulb center contact when you close the lens assembly.
There are E10 bulb holders/bases on Amazon that might be adaptable to fit the H4.
 
amecks said:
I guess the only way to know is try the longer crank when the time comes. Thanks.
Well I searched Amazon for the light bulbs and the snap cap connector for the 9 volt battery. (Thought I had saved one or two but couldn't find em). I had the battery so searched for 9 volt LED bulb. Found bulb and battery connector which were shipped Prime from Amazon - 2 days.
Here's a link to the bulbs. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083Q5PHM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have 9 of these bulbs left. I can send two people 3 bulbs each. Email or PM me and we'll work something out.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip on the cool light set up! I will check those out for sure.
 

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