The Flying Dutchman

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Joined
Feb 20, 2018
Messages
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Location
Germany, Leverkusen
Ok, I am in too. I found this sweety today:
20190508_124138.jpg

More about it here: http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/swap-meet-find.108799/#post-1104583

What I will do with it is basically strip it of its fenders, chainguard and rack (which I am not ashamed to admit I will rob for a running build). I will also swap the seat, the handlebars and the wheels. I might change the cranks and pedals.

I am not a fan of ladies' frames (laterally flexy and prone to wobbling at the headtube at higher speeds), and I don't like the mounting and dismounting process on a tall (at least to me) bike in combination with a coaster brake. I especially don't like that the second you step off the pedals you are left with no brakes since it has a coaster brake only.
What I did like about it is that it is a Holland bike, which is indeed made in Holland. If you are not familiar with the term Holland bike - well, this is it: 635 or 622 wheels, fully enclosed chainguard, skirtguards, very retro seating position because of which is called "granny's bicycle". Usually 1-3 speeds, nowadays more. It has a sweet ride, steers very nice and easy - characteristics of a bike with such a geometry.
The seating position is unusual, but it rides very nicely, even though it is a low end bike. This one came with one speed only (freewheel). I have a set ready for it with gear hub, also a front brake. So I see it really as a 3 speeder, strolling along the river where I wouldn't need manoeverability or acceleration.
 
Nice! A year ago I rebuilt a very beaten up bicycle, indentical to this for my girlfriends cousin! It was actually found ditched in the Amstel river in Amsterdam.
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Didn't have acces to a workshop then, so i did it entirely in the living room, even my cat helped:giggle:
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It had a Favorit rear 1 speed torpedo hub with coaster brake, and it was made in 1984.

I totally want to see what you will do with yours!
 
Ok, I am in too. I found this sweety today:
View attachment 94779
More about it here: http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/swap-meet-find.108799/#post-1104583

What I will do with it is basically strip it of its fenders, chainguard and rack (which I am not ashamed to admit I will rob for a running build). I will also swap the seat, the handlebars and the wheels. I might change the cranks and pedals.

I am not a fan of ladies' frames (laterally flexy and prone to wobbling at the headtube at higher speeds), and I don't like the mounting and dismounting process on a tall (at least to me) bike in combination with a coaster brake. I especially don't like that the second you step off the pedals you are left with no brakes since it has a coaster brake only.
What I did like about it is that it is a Holland bike, which is indeed made in Holland. If you are not familiar with the term Holland bike - well, this is it: 635 or 622 wheels, fully enclosed chainguard, skirtguards, very retro seating position because of which is called "granny's bicycle". Usually 1-3 speeds, nowadays more. It has a sweet ride, steers very nice and easy - characteristics of a bike with such a geometry.
The seating position is unusual, but it rides very nicely, even though it is a low end bike. This one came with one speed only (freewheel). I have a set ready for it with gear hub, also a front brake. So I see it really as a 3 speeder, strolling along the river where I wouldn't need manoeverability or acceleration.
Welcome to the build-off! Looking forward to seeing what you do with that bike!
 
Thanks, Luke!
Pic from wiki:
Quill_stems.JPG

It turned out all cone-shaped stems I have show a noticeable play when installed in forks that came with wedge-shaped stems. ??? Obviously there is no point in overtightening them, so I measured them and indeed, the cone-shaped are 21mm and the wedge-shaped 22mm. Is there a standart for them or is it just a coincidence?

So, the "new" wheels, I decided to get the best from the riding position and give the bike a 3sp hub. I want it clean and skinny and a bit sporty so no fenders, no rack, no chainguard.
20190509_124146.jpg

Bars and stem are temporary.
I have picked some parts which, the stem won't be used, since it is 21mm, pity, but I have a better one. I am not sure if I could make these Sturmey Archer moto shifter grip work. I think I read on Sheldon Brown's site they are compatible.
On the other hand I have this pretty red and chrome original Torpedo shifter, which could go with the red brake lever.
I am however tempted to try the moto bars on it, may be upside down and those grips would give it a racing appearance.
20190509_123956.jpg

This is by the way how this chainguard works (dissassembly), the wire must be removed and then the whole cover can be removed with some care:
20190508_184743.jpg

The there is the metal frame:
20190508_185056.jpg

... which consists of two pieces that slide in together, the one wraps around the achsle, the other is clamped to the frame:
20190508_194824.jpg

I might use the frame only.
 
Oh it should be connected with a wire... that explains a lot, why I had problems with mounting that thing...

Oh well, brutal barbaric slav methods do the trick.

Looking great! I would definitely choose the red & chrome shifter, just from sentiment
 
I am making some progress. I obviously can't use the moto handlebars because I don't have a stem where the bars clamp consists of two pieces and obviously the crossbrace is in the way for the older type of stems.
Not too bad, I have similar handlebars that I want to strip of the black paint first.
I took an old dynamo with an on-off lever. Oops, the bracket is way too short.
20190509_174228.jpg

Fixed, but I will probably try to find something a bit longer, I also think I could fabricate a piece with two holes for the fork bracket so even if the bolts untighten it won't sag and potentially damage the wheels.
20190510_132257.jpg

Two more shots of the vinyl chainguard skin, which I won't be able to use here because the gears cable would be in the way.
20190510_132043.jpg
20190510_132059.jpg


The headtube is very long which means more distance to the handlebars, so I will have some cable issues both with the gearing and the brake, especially since I want bothe cable housings the same color, I want my shifter on the handlebars and I don't want to have to spend a cent on it.
I would like to take it out for a spin since it is technically rideable - it has a coaster brake and is in third gear - but it is raining all day.
 
It already looks much better. Quill stems do come in two standard sizes; 21.1 mm and 22.2 mm. It is difficult to tell the difference without a caliper. Good luck with the build.
 
Thank You :) I never knew about two different sizes. When I was buying my adapter (quill to ahead) I saw it explicitely said 22mm shaft, but I thought it was only in refernce to the different shaft diameter in 1" and 1 1/8" threaded forks.

I sanded most of the handlebars down, there are going to be grips covering the rests anyway.
20190510_150447.jpg

How it sits now.
20190510_150541.jpg

And this will be my new dynamo bracket:
20190510_150642.jpg

My "power" tools:
20190510_150741.jpg

As you see I also know a thing or two about slav barbaric power LOL.
Reshaping things is hard and tiring to me (I have cut forks, stems and frames with this hacksaw), but actually a relaxing and in the pleasing work.
I also tend to leave the unpleasant work for last - you see I haven't done anything on the brake and the gears yet - both some of the things I dislike to do on a bike. The worst for me is changing changing tires. I really hate that.

I can't quite decide on the headlight position. I usually like it low, like a continuation of the lines of the frame, but this obviously won't work here, because instead the frame has this overlong headtube.
 
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I can't quite decide on the headlight position. I usually like it low, like a continuation of the lines of the frame, but this obviously won't work here, because instead the frame has this overlong headtube.

Make a mount in front of the dynamo:39:
 
It would be the easy way out. It would not match the rear light neatly tucked under the seat.
I think I got it, but I don't quite know how to realize it. :43::nerd::39:

I cut the plate for the dynamo then this happened:
20190510_162020.jpg

Luckily I was able to meet the cut on the other side at the same angle not to ruin the line. It looks ok I think.
20190510_170354.jpg


I managed to connect the twist shifter. It went uneventful, actually a simple work. Except that I got the cable direction wrong first and it shifted backwards, causing a moment of confusion and unclarity.
Shifter with cable:
20190511_005724.jpg

The cable comes to a stopping bracket on the downtube shortly before the headtube:
20190511_005533.jpg

Next the cable runs around a pulley above the BB:
20190511_005522.jpg

And finally through the chain comes to this plastic casing... The casing has teeth and a release button and is connected to this rod, which connects to the little chain, which in turn moves the hub internals when you move the cable.
20190511_005507.jpg

I love the simplicity, theoretically you could work it with a rope in your hand in case of emergency. (what is this emergency when one needs above all GEARS??? LOL)
 
I usually don't care much for ladies bike frames, but I do like the sweeping arc of the top tube on European ones like yours.
 
I am delighted that you like it, being a fan of your style. Thank you.
So, I installed the front brake. I found black housing, even in the fitting length, must have been logically for a front brake as well, but I couldn't remove the endcaps so I cut it. For those who don't know how to cut housings without messing them up (or believe that there is a special tool needed for that) - you push a cable through and cut with it inside:
20190511_124746.jpg

Here it is, nice round opening, to be reused:
20190511_124856.jpg

So, I installed the front brake and as adviced took my good V-brake pads off a build that is hybernating for now. I folded the jaws in the desired position and closed them together with a zip tie. Then installed the cable, tightened the bolt, cut the zip tie - didn't even need to fine tune it:
20190511_132552.jpg

I also bolted the dynamo holder the other way around and it lines neatly with the fork now:
20190511_142626.jpg

I think the weather is getting better, I will probably take it out for a spin later, so I bolted a stand that is skinny so it suits it quite good and then this:
20190511_134050.jpg

So some brutal slav power, applied on a particular spot and I got it not to go into the wheel when closed... Unfortunately I was a little to eager to show it who's boss and the bend is too much:
20190511_141356.jpg

I will have to hammer it a bit back when I go out, I can't do that at home on sathurday. My neighbours would be more than mildly displeased. It actually is more stable than it looks, it took some effort to tip it over, but it looks all wrong. It would look sick on a male frame though.
A double stand will probably be the best for it. The fleamarkets start in a week or two and I might be able to find something fitting.
Here is the brake lever:
20190511_132616.jpg

I decided to use this one, first because the clamp is hidden, and the other I have is with an outside bracket:
20190424_160220.jpg

Also I like that it is like the red circle means STOP.
Now I was having some thoughts about the headlight. And since this is the Flying Dutchman...
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Now fly like the wind! :showingbiceps:
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Fly, master of the skies! :giggle:
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Glide above the clouds! :crazy:
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This is how it is now, it might get other pedals though. I am glad I didn't have to replace the chainwheel/cranks - I like how simple the shape is, nothing special, just a part of the drivetrain, ready to dutifully spin. I mostly like about it that it has six spoke so it matches the rear cog (not that you see the rear cog):
20190511_140628.jpg
 
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More of that slav muscle power:showingbiceps:

Those brake levers are very nice, got a set of those on my daily cruiser. That bike is coming together very good!
 
Thank you!
The twist grip(s) proved unsuitable - when pulling harder on the handlebars the grip comes off the shifting ring unexpectedly and I almost crashed the first time that happened.
I also didn't like that the whole grip rotates which leads to unwanted gear changes. I am much better used to the Shimano twist shifters with their rubber shift rings.
I installed the red chrome shifter, but the cable is to short so I mounted it on the stem.
20190512_184041.jpg

Left side. I hope it doesn't tear my junk off or slice my femoral artery in case of an accident:
20190512_185801.jpg

It has a sturdy kickstand now, also spiked pedals:
20190512_185822.jpg

Also a Lepper seat, because the white one didn't feel good at all.
20190512_185732.jpg

Ironically after taking the time to turn the seat clamp upside down in order to mount the seat lower, it turned out that I had to put it a bit higher to feel more comfortable. :crazy:
20190512_190202.jpg
20190512_190214.jpg
 
The twist grip(s) proved unsuitable - when pulling harder on the handlebars the grip comes off the shifting ring unexpectedly and I almost crashed the first time that happened.
I also didn't like that the whole grip rotates which leads to unwanted gear changes. I am much better used to the Shimano twist shifters with their rubber shift rings.

That's the reason I personally hate grip shifters of any kind. Those Sturmey Archer twist grips are too long - you tend to accidentally switch gears. Cheap ones are too stiff and changing gears is a problem (especially when, like me you mostly ride in traffic). Shimano &Sram shifters are nice, but only if you have a long enough steering bar that allows you to put normal, long grips with those shifters, especially if you have large hands :crazy:

I installed the red chrome shifter, but the cable is to short so I mounted it on the stem.

And that looks killer! It gives me the feeling of those classic Utility 5 speed bikes that used Chechoslovakian Favorit derailleurs, and stem mounted, non indexed shifters.

Are those grips made of foam? I think some leather ones would look totally cool on it, and a classical small rear light mounted underneath the seat.
 
I guess they are supposed to emulate a motorcycle throttle grip. But the Shimano are much better, most of your palm is on the grip and not on the shifter. I have had that problem with short handlebars too, but luckily I prefer wider and longer bars.
I have had three Shimano twist shifters and I was very happy with them, tight and precise, so I didn't expect this one to be so disappointing.
However I am glad I was able to use the Torpedo shifter cause I always liked it.
It will take some time to get used to having to reach for the shifter.
And yes, these grips are foam, quite comfy. I am quite short on grips and these are the only ones I can use. The other few pairs I have are cut or made for twist shift grips so the right one is shorter.
 
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Please be careful, those foam grips tend to get loose very quickly and tend to be a hazard when riding. If you're located in EU I can search for some black rubber grips and send them to you. :39:
 

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