SRAM shifter questions...

Apr 1, 2014
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2000 vintage Cannondale with SRAM 5.0 3x8 gears. existing twist shifters in bad shape, had set of used ones can't find now. :mad: But they probably are pretty beat too. I want to update to trigger shift but everything in the stash is 6 or 7 speed Shimano and not compatible I guess. So I'm looking at SRAM X4 shifter set @ $28.99 any other index shifters in this price range work with this setup? Could I replace the rear derailleur with Shimano and then use a Shimano shifter, or is the rear freewheel cluster (made by Sunrace) only work with SRAM?
 
Oct 28, 2018
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2000 vintage Cannondale with SRAM 5.0 3x8 gears. existing twist shifters in bad shape, had set of used ones can't find now. :mad: But they probably are pretty beat too. I want to update to trigger shift but everything in the stash is 6 or 7 speed Shimano and not compatible I guess. So I'm looking at SRAM X4 shifter set @ $28.99 any other index shifters in this price range work with this setup? Could I replace the rear derailleur with Shimano and then use a Shimano shifter, or is the rear freewheel cluster (made by Sunrace) only work with SRAM?
How is 2000 vintage?
 
Apr 1, 2014
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How is 2000 vintage?
According to Wikipedia ……….. An item should be at least 100 years old to be defined as an antique.
Generally speaking if the item is not older than an antique but not less than 20 years, it falls under the term vintage.
What is wrong with Sram?
Well. from my point of view "whats wrong" is compatibility and the fact all my stuff in my stash is Shimano.
"There was a time when cyclists were free to mix and match transmission components, but that all changed when Shimano introduced indexed gear shifting in 1984. The new system provided very accurate shifting, but it depended upon precise compatibility of the shifter with the derailleurs and drivetrain.

Indexed shifting works because the rear derailleur travels a precise distance in response to a pre-set amount of cable pull within the shift lever. Cable tension is critical for accuracy, but the geometry of the derailleur and the sprocket spacing must match the indexed cable pull, otherwise the derailleur will not align with each sprocket.

Rather than work to a common standard, Shimano, Campagnolo, and SRAM have all developed their own specifications for their indexed gear systems. SRAM mechanical gear levers employ 1:1 actuation (1mm of cable pull moves the rear derailleur 1mm) while Shimano and Campagnolo use higher ratios (1.4 to 1.9:1). Thus, while it is physically possible to operate one brand of derailleurs with another brand of shifters, the quality of shifting will be greatly compromised."
The bike was in poor condition, but when I got it going it had some problems shifting and skipped in high gear. Chain was rusted solid and freed with pb blaster.:rofl:

Longest test ride was a 15 mi loop around my house and the chain snapped. Turned out to be full of tiny cracks in the link side plates. Anyways good chain now and wear adjusted out of the bearings hope it shifts more solid. If I change out to a Shimano rear der I have lots of cool shifters in my stash (only 7 speed tho).
This may be best option for me as I can lock out the highest (skipping) gear. :soapbox:
 
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Apr 1, 2014
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IMG_1906.JPG
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Success! After cleaning and lubricating adjusting every part of the drive train, it shifted good but had a rattle and the chain tried to jump teeth by the jockey wheels. Turned out the replaceable mount for the derailleur was loose and the jockey wheels were bent out of alignment.
 
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May 10, 2016
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Cool you found a solution!

But to answer your original question, the freewheel will work with a Shimano set up.

A bent derailleur hanger can/will cause slipping in the gears, as well as bent/ unaligned derailleur.

If the twist shift is having issues, the easiest solution (to me) would be friction shifters. But I happen to like friction shifters.
 
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Apr 1, 2014
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I put the bike on my work stand yesterday and studied the action while shifting. Symptoms were the slipping was limited to top gear / smallest cog only. While turning the crank it would get to a point in the rotation where a link actually jumped after the top jockey wheel and skip a tooth. I also messed with the "B" screw on the rear deralier to increase chain contact with the cogs. It wasn't till I looked close at the relation between the derailer and the wheel that I saw jockey wheel cage was bent!