Springer on a Townie?

[handyandy1100]

Been thinking about putting a springer fork on my Townie. A Monark style fork would be coolest, but that's above my pay grade. Have to settle for a Schwinn style springer. Hard part is dealing with the Townie head tube length, 10" from race to race. And it's a 1-1/8" steer tube too.
I'm seeing a 9-1/2" steer tube for a springer and a 1-1/8" threaded to threadless adapter that can extend an inch.

Wondering if these could work to mount a springer on my Townie?

Thanks

 

[Wildcat]

The quill extender won't provide threads. So, the steering tube won't be long enough to attach. You'll have to add a section to the steering tube below the threads to get the threads high enough for the Townie. That would have to be welded in taking in consideration that the handlebar stem has to slide down inside, so the welds should be low enough not to impede the stem. Then you'll have to make up longer fork arms to reach the spring assembly.

How about taking your existing fork and making it a springer? It would probably be stronger and more stable than the one you have. I've used a few of those and have one on my fat tire bike now that I modified for the wider and taller tire. But the original fork modified to a springer is probably the easiest and best way to go.

Here's the thread:
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/homemade-springer-fronts.13994/

 

[hamqqea]

Been thinking about putting a springer fork on my Townie...

Wondering if these could work to mount a springer on my Townie?

Thanks

I've used a Sunlite riser quill extender with success on short steering tubes with threadless headsets. Cruising only.
Example shows placement of parts outside the steering tube.

Adapters typically taper. The non-threaded adjustable race must be kept out of the tapered zone. Have to figure the quill extension will be installed permanently because a Star nut for the preload bolt has to be installed over the stem bolt. Good reason to use a cr-mo adapter with the taper fitted into the steerer tightly. I file the inside ridge of the steering tube to receive the quill better.

Sunlite type 25.4mm quill for 1-1/8'' forks available here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stem-Riser...4275.c10&&var=453739423289&varId=453739423289
I'm not aware of anyone who's used the above method. I've only tried with 1'' forks. The quill moving inside the tube is really the worst that could happen. Inconvenient to have to remove the star nut to get at the stem bolt. Being a riser quill though, it can be used with regular short quill stems as well. There would effectively be 2 expander bolts and Wedges in the system.

 

[Verrt]

Been thinking about putting a springer fork on my Townie. A Monark style fork would be coolest, but that's above my pay grade. Have to settle for a Schwinn style springer. Hard part is dealing with the Townie head tube length, 10" from race to race. And it's a 1-1/8" steer tube too.
I'm seeing a 9-1/2" steer tube for a springer and a 1-1/8" threaded to threadless adapter that can extend an inch.
View attachment 148592
View attachment 148590

Wondering if these could work to mount a springer on my Townie?

Thanks

That looks like it could work.
I'd think your worry points would be if the connection between the expansion wedge in the adapter and the springer steerer can handle the extra strain of holding a threadless fork together, as under regular circumstances its only tough job is stopping the stem/bars from rotating. In normal use the threaded headset locknut would be taking that main load of keeping fork together.
The other point I'd be keeping an eye on is the top cap supplied with the quill adapter you posted. Again because in normal use the threaded headset is doing the real work, this one may not be made as sturdy as a normal top cap/star nut.

But it wouldn't be rat rod if you didn't do some on the job stress testing!

Still, my vote is for saving up the pennies for a threadless monark style springer. With more people making cruiser style ebikes the supply/demand for them is a little better than it was a couple of years ago. If you keep you're onto it and keep your eyes open I've seen them go for around $100.

I'm also a big fan of wildcat's make your own suggestion. I'd tack on the suggestion of starting with a chopper/triple clamp fork and adding a second fork to be the springer part

 

[hamqqea]

I would not suggest using anything other than the Sunlite cr-mo risers. I've ridden a bike with an extended tube for several hundred miles. There was a slight amount of play eventually. Redid the pinch bolts, tightened down the preload bolt and off we went again. Takes a lot of FN' force to separate a wedge that's set properly. I'd drill holes through the steering tube, quill and add pins for good measure. Trust it as much as any bush weld... The fork can be reused for another gig.

 

[handyandy1100]

Thanks for the thoughts guys. The main reasons for trying to use the fork mentioned is I already have it, and it has mounts on the trusses for my front V-brakes.

One of these days I would like to try building a homebrew springer fork, but not sure about mounting the front V-brakes.

None of the Monark style forks I've seen have provisions for V-brakes. Also, none have had a long enough steer tube, so the same issue as the Schwinn style fork would need to be addressed.

I suppose I could run with no front brake.

I really like my Townie, but for the life of me, I cannot understand why they use that 10" head tube. The bike would look even better with a shorter tube.

Maybe if I don't use my springer I will keep the factory fork. Possibly I can make some trusses for it and improve the looks some?

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[Wildcat]

You have the whole sunlite springer? Might as well use what you have on hand.
Take the spring assembly and mount it on the fork tube,

then make up 2 struts like what came with it only long enough to reach the axle and bolt it up. 1/2" tubing is what I used. Your struts won't reach but can be used to judge the ones you make.

You won't use the fork tube or fork arms. The struts could also be curved if you had a way to put a nice bend in them. No spring action but would look like it.
I used copper tubing, cut and drilled the ends after flattening the ends in a vise. Then I painted them red. I was only making them because my springer was missing them. Your original fork still provides the stability. And use the same Vbrakes if they are already there.

I think this is doable and will use the big chrome spring.

 

[handyandy1100]

You have the whole sunlite springer? Might as well use what you have on hand.
Take the spring assembly and mount it on the fork tube,
View attachment 148749
then make up 2 struts like what came with it only long enough to reach the axle and bolt it up. 1/2" tubing is what I used. Your struts won't reach but can be used to judge the ones you make.
View attachment 148750
You won't use the fork tube or fork arms. The struts could also be curved if you had a way to put a nice bend in them. No spring action but would look like it.
I used copper tubing, cut and drilled the ends after flattening the ends in a vise. Then I painted them red. I was only making them because my springer was missing them. Your original fork still provides the stability. And use the same Vbrakes if they are already there.
View attachment 148751
I think this is doable and will use the big chrome spring.

Wildcat,
If I am understanding what you're saying, make a fake springer out of a real one?
Something like this...

Hmmmm.......

 

[Wildcat]

That's the idea! Looking at your Townie fork ends, a curved set of struts would bolt right up and look good. I'd like to see what you come up with.
You also keep the geometry of the original bike.
If you need some room at the top of the threads for the cap, you can remove the original lock washer, the springer bracket will serve that purpose.
Is that a JC Higgins guard?

 

[handyandy1100]

That's the idea! Looking at your Townie fork ends, a curved set of struts would bolt right up and look good. I'd like to see what you come up with.
You also keep the geometry of the original bike.
If you need some room at the top of the threads for the cap, you can remove the original lock washer, the springer bracket will serve that purpose.
Is that a JC Higgins guard?

Yes, it's a Higgins guard. Good catch. LOL

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[wheelbender6]

I am in the “modify your existing fork” camp. I think you could piece together a unique, functional fork with no welding using parts from a Schwinn style springer and a rat trap fork. The rat trap fork provides the little "swing arms".
- intact rat traps are usually expensive, but there are a lot of them on eBay that have missing parts or broken pieces for cheap.

 

[Wildcat]

You could use the existing springer struts and fork arms to make up a set of struts that would work, so you wouldn't have to buy anything extra, except nuts and bolts.
The fork arms would be reversed so they curve forward. The ends will be about 4 inches or so short of the front axle mount. The struts could have sections cut off and ends flattened and drilled to attach (with nuts and bolts) between the curved arms and the axle.

The length of the strut pieces would determine how far the curved arms extend ahead of the fork.
The holes in the arms where the fork tube mount could be used to mount a bracket for a headlight, then they won't look out of place. It sits just about the right spot for a light. The original bolt will thread in. Or a piece of a strut could be cut to go between the arms with the bolt through it and look like a support.
Just throwing out some ideas.

 

[handyandy1100]

You could use the existing springer struts and fork arms to make up a set of struts that would work, so you wouldn't have to buy anything extra, except nuts and bolts.
The fork arms would be reversed so they curve forward. The ends will be about 4 inches or so short of the front axle mount. The struts could have sections cut off and ends flattened and drilled to attach (with nuts and bolts) between the curved arms and the axle.
View attachment 148810
The length of the strut pieces would determine how far the curved arms extend ahead of the fork.
The holes in the arms where the fork tube mount could be used to mount a bracket for a headlight, then they won't look out of place. It sits just about the right spot for a light. The original bolt will thread in. Or a piece of a strut could be cut to go between the arms with the bolt through it and look like a support.
Just throwing out some ideas.

In the words of Artie Johnson, "Very interesting."

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