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I was super stoked to be able to buy Greg's Worksman. He was king enough to throw in the custom bronze headset locknut and seat post clamp. I decided to go with almost all raw metal parts with kind of a steampunk-ish look. Raw steel, bronze, copper, brass, stainless and aluminum. I like the 26T rear cog and 58T chainring. Finished it this winter, so it still has not been ridden yet.
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Grizz Archer said:
I was super stoked to be able to buy Greg's Worksman. He was king enough to throw in the custom bronze headset locknut and seat post clamp. I decided to go with almost all raw metal parts with kind of a steampunk-ish look. Raw steel, bronze, copper, brass, stainless and aluminum. I like the 26T rear cog and 58T chainring. Finished it this winter, so it still has not been ridden yet.View attachment 93105 View attachment 93106 View attachment 93107 View attachment 93108
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Grizz Archer said:
A few more pics. A huge thanx to Greg for making the frame and fork so cool!View attachment 93109 View attachment 93110 View attachment 93111
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Really nice! :thumbsup:
 
Bicycle808 said:
Hello, Thomas. Don't worry; your English is fine.

Worksman bikes, in stock form, take 1" threaded forks and a special kind of 1" threaded headset. Your mechanic is correct; the headtube of the frame is unusual, but the fork is basically normal. (It does have a narrow ID, and takes 21.1mm stems instead of the more typical 22.2mm).

Basically, the Worksman headtube has something like a 32.7mm ID. Normal 1" headtubes are 30.0-30.2mm. "BMX" 1" headsets tend
to be 32.5mm OD. 1.125" headtubes take a 34.0mm OD cup. The Wald 4080 is about 33.0mm at the nubs, and is soft enough to easily deform or file down to fit a worksman.

If you're hoping to run a 1" threaded fork, the easy option is to run a Wald 4080; it will fit, but you may need to file the 3 little nubs a VERY small amount. The next easiest option is to get a "bmx" sized 1" threaded headset, like the Tioga Beartrap. These will need some shimming, but you can do that by cutting up an empty can of moosehead. I kind of like running the tioga beartrap guts and nuts within the original Worksman cups. Links:
http://www.amazon.com/Wald-Headset-4080-Threaded-Plated/dp/B000AO5FPG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377535827&sr=8-1&keywords=wald 4080
http://www.amazon.com/Tioga-Beartrap-Headset-Threaded-Chrome/dp/B000C14N4Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377536198&sr=8-1&keywords=tioga beartrap

If you're going to run a 1.125" fork, get one of these:
http://www.genuinebicycleproducts.com/parts.html (Scroll halfway down the page...)
I got one; very nice thing, for what it is. I haven't test-fit it yet, but I put one of the cups up against an OEM worksman headcup, and the OD matched very nearly perfectly. It was the same exact size, to my eye, but I bet a micrometer may show a very small (.1mm) difference ...

**EDIT**The Retro Ryder fits loose in a Worksman Frame, and would need to be shimmed. I found an older, very UGLY YST CS-568 headset where all of the guts fit nicely with the oem Worksman cups. The caged bearings drop in perfectly, and the rest goes into place from there. HTH... **EDIT OVER**

You can also mix-n-match bits from various 1.125" headsets within the stock Worksman cups, but in my opinion, this is more annoying than just dropping the $45 on the ready-made one from Genuine Bicycle Products.

I hope this helps; I tried to take the fact that you're a French-speaker into account and avoided slang and esoteric terms, but that's tough to do while discussing bike parts. By the way, "ID" stands for "inner diameter", and "OD" stands for "outer diameter."

Regards,
Rob
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I'm rebuilding my Worksman that was posted here a few years back and am running into headset issues. I purchased a 32.5mm BMX styled headset from https://porkchopbmx.com/headsets-and-spacers/1-threaded-headsets/ only to realize like Rob above experienced that the cups slide right into the headtube, meaning that my 32.5mm headset won't work. So here's my list of questions:

1. I'm wondering what my options are. Is it safe to say that I should be looking for 32.7mm cups?

2. Is there any kind of 32.5 to 32.7mm shim available? (If 32.7mm is the currect cup size) - I'd like to keep my headset if possible to avoid spending more money and I like the anodized look.

3. Would something like this work since they're 32.7mm ? https://porkchopbmx.com/tange-mx320...ycle-headset-1-threaded-w-32-7mm-cups-silver/

4. Will this work without shimming? https://porkchopbmx.com/tange-aw-27...-threaded-w-32-7mm-cups-chrome-made-in-japan/
 
coreybruyere said:
I'm rebuilding my Worksman and running into issues 32.5mm headset won't work.
1. I should be looking for 32.7mm cups?
2. Is there any kind of shim available?
3. Would something like this work 32.7mm?
4. Will this work without shimming?
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Measure the inside diameter of the head tube, preferably using simple digital calipers, with metric units in mm.

It sounds like your bike may have a ~33mm proprietary Worksman dimension.

After measuring one may have the common sense realization that any parts advertised as having a significantly different size would most likely not fit.

It is basic math/numbers, 32 is smaller than 33; and 33 is bigger than 32.
 
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Phil Fink said:
Measure the inside diameter of the head tube, preferably using simple digital calipers, with metric units in mm.

It sounds like your bike may have a ~33mm proprietary Worksman dimension.

After measuring one may have the common sense realization that any parts advertised as having a significantly different size would most likely not fit.

It is basic math/numbers, 32 is smaller than 33; and 33 is bigger than 32.
Click to expand...

what if you wrap the 32.5 mm cups with .004 in shim material?
That would equal 32.7 mm,
a .006 in shim would equal 32.8 mm...
 

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