Shortbow

Jul 16, 2019
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That came out awesome! Really cool following along with you on this. Thanks.
And lol to brake bleeding problems, I used to have an 82 Yamaha with remote master cylinder and dual disks with anti dive system. I know brake bleeding difficulty! One tip to get air out of convoluted lines: squeeze the brake lever and zip tie it to the bar, and use a hand sander (without sand paper) along the lines to vibrate any bubbles up and out of the top. Not sure if that would work for bike brakes, I'm pretty old tech. But your story about brake fluid flying everywhere brought back some memories...
 

tjwilson

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That came out awesome! Really cool following along with you on this. Thanks.
And lol to brake bleeding problems, I used to have an 82 Yamaha with remote master cylinder and dual disks with anti dive system. I know brake bleeding difficulty! One tip to get air out of convoluted lines: squeeze the brake lever and zip tie it to the bar, and use a hand sander (without sand paper) along the lines to vibrate any bubbles up and out of the top. Not sure if that would work for bike brakes, I'm pretty old tech. But your story about brake fluid flying everywhere brought back some memories...
Thanks. Now that sounds like a difficult brake bleed! Getting the air out of the line on the bike actually wasn't too bad, except for the fill syringe popping off. The kit also included a cup that screwed onto the brake lever. A little back and forth / up and down with the fluid and alternately tapping the caliper and working the lever did the trick for eliminating bubbles.
 

tjwilson

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excellent build. Have you considered running the cables inside the tubes they're tied to?
Thanks. I did late in the build but... I had fabricated myself into a corner when I sleeved the cantilever tubes. I needed a 3/8 inch internal sleeve and just grabbed and cut some 3/8 inch bolts to fit. Meaning there's no internal path along the entire tube. I could re-bend and replaced those tubes but I'm not entirely happy with the frame's alignment and didn't want to only partially re-work it. Learned a valuable lesson this time around, that I need to invest in some better fixturing and pay more attention to alignment! It isn't way off but it is something that I do notice. Even so the ride isn't affected and it does ride really nice. Tying the cables to the frame so its functional was a compromise I decided to make. I agree internal runs would be much cleaner and this isn't the first time I wish I had done exactly that! I need to make that a priority from the outset next time.
 
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Also want to throw a thanks out to @Chad T for the original inspiration of using modern components on a muscle bike.
Hey thank you man. You def did it up right with the modern gear.

Another unbelievably awesomely unreal build....:thumbsup:

Only one problem.....you've done such a good job making it look like a muscle bike that it looks a little naked without a chain guard.

Might be a fun project for you. Was thinking something like a Schwinn wing tip might look good but probably wouldn't work well with the angle/width of the chain stays.

Something short like the Sears Spyder guard might work though.

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Beautiful job on this. Really amazing as usual.
 

tjwilson

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Thanks!

Hmmmmm :39:
A chain guard wasn't something I had considered but I really like the idea... enough to do a virtual mock-up. Even though it needs tweaking I think there is definitely potential there. I enjoyed fabricating the seat pan and was kind of sorry to cover it up. Would be fun to do a guard. Of course, I've just stacked everything up in my work area to start building a wall between it and the rest of the basement. Will be a while before I can get back to it. That gives me time to explore some options though.

01_chainguardMockup.jpg