Papa's taxi

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I would put a piece of flat plate across the top following the chain stays and then hide an angle iron under it the full length that you were showing of putting it in between the stays. This should give you the needed strength and not ruin the looks.
Excellent idea!
 
So this is what I came up with to make sure the rear is stiff. I used two pieces of angle that luckily came even with the top of the chain stays and a flat piece of steel cut to fit the frame and around the kickstand mount. Just need some welding time.
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Haven't gotten much done except for the inside panels and kick panel covered yesterday . Just using some material that I had from other projects.
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trying to come up a design for the checkerboard pattern thinking something like this or just narrow to fat with bottom being level or just a straight line 3 squares tall like the checker cabs.
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nothing done today spending time with the wife on our 27th anniversary getting ready to go out.
 
I picked up this set of nexus 3 wheels that the paint is the wrong color and pretty well messed up little curb rash on rims and paint on the spokes is flaking off in spots. I haven't broken down and respocked a wheel before so been watching videos seems not to hard except for maybe truing and centering part. Gonna start with the front rim at least if I mess up I have other front rims I could use only have 1 nexus 3 hub.
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the plan is to strip paint off the spokes and possibly the rim or just sand the rim and repaint.
 
Saturday morning went to the swap shop and found this handlebar at a guy that had some motorcycle parts and some bike but these were with the motorcycle parts.
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after I got home worked on the tank halves just have some sanding on them.
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today I finished up the welding and added a plate to the top around and behind the seat bar to match what I did on the bottom chain stays.
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then I did a quick mock-up to see how it was looking so far
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not sure if I'm going to use the Springer forks or the stock so I can use the front fender.
 
I usually tighten the spokes evenly until the nipples are bottomed out on the rim butt not tight at all. Then I put it in my truing stand and mark it's position with the "feelers" (my stand is home made and the feelers are bolts). Then I flip the rim to see if it ends up in the same spot. If it's not I tighten spokes on whichever side it needs to go towards until it is centered on the axle and I can flip it and it ends up in the same spot. This is called "dishing" and I'm doing it wrong. (You're supposed to use a dishing tool.)

After that I spin the rim and look for high spots. I tighten spokes evenly until the rim is nice and round. Then I take out the side to side movements by tightening spokes to pull the rim straight. Once I get to fine tuning I will have to loosen some spokes. Then I check if everything is tight. It usually is by this point. Like Spike says. Not much flex once everything is tight. The spokes should make a ringing sound when tapped or plucked.

Everybody does this a little different. It's good to do a little research online if you've never done this before. Not hard. Just a few basic things to understand.

Good looking build....:thumbsup:
 
I usually tighten the spokes evenly until the nipples are bottomed out on the rim butt not tight at all. Then I put it in my truing stand and mark it's position with the "feelers" (my stand is home made and the feelers are bolts). Then I flip the rim to see if it ends up in the same spot. If it's not I tighten spokes on whichever side it needs to go towards until it is centered on the axle and I can flip it and it ends up in the same spot. This is called "dishing" and I'm doing it wrong. (You're supposed to use a dishing tool.)

After that I spin the rim and look for high spots. I tighten spokes evenly until the rim is nice and round. Then I take out the side to side movements by tightening spokes to pull the rim straight. Once I get to fine tuning I will have to loosen some spokes. Then I check if everything is tight. It usually is by this point. Like Spike says. Not much flex once everything is tight. The spokes should make a ringing sound when tapped or plucked.

Everybody does this a little different. It's good to do a little research online if you've never done this before. Not hard. Just a few basic things to understand.

Good looking build....:thumbsup:
Thanks guys the only videos that I have watched are basically the respoking part need to find a good truing and centering vid.
 
A reasonable guide for the tension is to get a well built wheel with similar length and gauge spikes and give them a pluck. Tension so that your new sookes make a similar tone. You can get a tension meter for sookes, but unless you are building lots of wheels it’s probably not worth t.
 
Was at the swap shop this weekend and found this thing in a bin with a bunch of other junk and figured maybe it could work for mounting the shifter.
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It was mounted to this around the white line no idea what it was for.
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also picked up this brake light to put on back of the kid hauler.
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finally had some dry weather today to do a couple of mock-up to decide which way I wanted to go.
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leaning towards the bottom pic really like the look with the fenders front and rear and original forks.
 

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