(ORBO) Heavy Duti Rocket

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The big concept is to take a $5 2005 Schwinn Rocket 3 (which I found to be pretty much useless due to severe pogo effect of rear suspension). http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/schwinn-rocket-3-mountain-bike.91280/
schwinn%20rocket%20find%20007_zpsjb572ow9.jpg


And transfer all the goodies over to a IND-CHUCKZ Schwinn Heavy Duti frame.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/heavy-duti-schwinn-build.95116/#post-945867
ind chuckz HD frame.jpg

Found a couple nice clean pics online,
Rocket 3.
rocket 3 side 1.jpg


Heavy Duti.
Schwinn Heavy Duti side.jpg

and a composite as planned...
test 1.jpg

Gonna try to make it look like a "factory built" bike.
OG paint on the Heavy Duti still looks nice and its too cold here to paint at the moment. :grin:
 
Thanks guys! I'm unsure if I'm gonna try to use the opc or some kind of 3 piece adapter for the bottom bracket. If I keep the 8 speed rear derailleur I will need a narrower front sprocket than the original opc one.
I wonder if anyone has used one of these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150585143740?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
s-l1600.jpg

Smart move would be to use a threaded adaptor and then use the Rocket 3's current BB set in the Schwinn frame. Even if the Rocket 3's BB set is beat, you can at least measure it's spindle and order the proper set. Get sealed bearings thrown in with the deal, and no chainline headaches.

The adaptor you have pictured above has a 127mm spindle and, while the threads do allow for some adjustment, the stock crank probably takes a 115 or maybe a 118, so even if the threads give you enough room to dial it in properly on the right side, it'll throw the left crankarm way outboard, which in my experience, kinda feels funny, b/c your cranks aren't centered within the frame or in relation to the rear wheel....
 
Smart move would be to use a threaded adaptor and then use the Rocket 3's current BB set in the Schwinn frame. Even if the Rocket 3's BB set is beat, you can at least measure it's spindle and order the proper set. Get sealed bearings thrown in with the deal, and no chainline headaches.

The adaptor you have pictured above has a 127mm spindle and, while the threads do allow for some adjustment, the stock crank probably takes a 115 or maybe a 118, so even if the threads give you enough room to dial it in properly on the right side, it'll throw the left crankarm way outboard, which in my experience, kinda feels funny, b/c your cranks aren't centered within the frame or in relation to the rear wheel....
Actually the bearings in the bottom bracket are in fine shape. :)
I think the rocket 3 was just one of those designs that ends up not being as good as the parts they threw into it. Gotta borrow my brothers BB puller and get the rocket BB pulled off the frame. :cool2:
Thanks for the input - never dawned on me the adapter I was looking at could be too wide!
 
Considering the storm that is just passing through the upper Midwest....maybe follow @Falstaff suit and put some studded tires on that....old man Winter might be just waking up in the northland from the sounds of it....:confused:
 
ya done w chores its a mess, but beautiful out.
storm 1.jpg
storm 2.jpg

been looking at some of these BMX sprockets,
BMX sprocket.jpg

any chance they would work with my OPC and if i can find in 3/32 wide for 8 speed chain? I'd like to keep around 32 t as the little I rode the donor bike this worked out pretty sweet and was middle sprocket on 3 speed crank...
 
BMX sprockets are tricky, in that some will be the 15/16" which will fit OPC;, many will be 7/8"(22.2mm), or 22.0mm, or 19mm, and often, there are hat washers intended to reduce bigger bores to smaller. These things can be found in 3/32", but most of that are still in 1/8", at least among the brands with which i am most familiar.

If you search, you might find one that has all of those features in common: 32t, 3/32" teeth, 15/16" bore.... that's a bit of a tall order.

It won't look as cool, but the easiest move if you wanna stay with the OPC would be to run a 5-bolt 110mm spider for OPC, and you can easily find 34t multi-speed rings. You can even find 33t ones, but not so easily as you can the 34. Then, you can start thinking about chain retention and all of that.... if you run 1x8, you're probably gonna drop chain if you're in high- or low-gear out back and you hit a bump.

HTH
-Rob
 
Don't look good for using rocket 8 speed derailleur rear hub on the Heavy Duti frame the dropouts are an inch to narrow! :(
If I knew what I was doing maybe I could lace up a coaster from my junk into the hoop I have but it all kinda spooks me. besides typical x wallymart stuff I have a Bendix 76 cb on a 20" roll fast rim and a red band Bendix 2 speed that don't seem to shift on a Schwinn lightweight 26" wheel. IDK why I thought this would be easy...:grin:
 
There are simple ways to widen the rear triangle of a bike, it sounds like that's what you might need. I'm sure there's a thread somewhere on here that can explain it.
You can also look up how Sheldon Brown did it with a 2x4, it's probably the easiest way.
 
Widening a rear triangle on a steel bike is pretty easy. DO you have a floor jack? You can lay the frame on its side, but one of the dropouts under the jack, then jack the other one up until you have the spacing you want. Just be really careful because the frame will want to jump off the jack....
 
I kind if like the floor jack method. Will the drop outs move equally (rear wheel stays centered)?
 
They seem too. I've done it a few times and plan to do it on the frame I am getting from Ind-chuckz next week.
 

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