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Livery usually refers to a race car's identifying paint job. This is one of my favorite "liverys"

BMW-M1-Procar.jpg


Great choice on the grifter tire. Good color combo. Seat and grips are sweet.

Learn something new every day! I was thinking more like a stable for animals but figured he was referencing the color scheme.

On the Grifter tire I blacked out the neon MAXXIS logo ... wasn't working for me.
 
Well now that I'm thinking about it more, it probably was not the best use of the word. I was thinking more in general terms of Harley Davidson's recognizable olive color schemes. Livery is more descriptive of colors and patterns that you would associate with fleets or uniforms or race teams (as @Chad T pointed out).

Sorry for the confusion. :forum:
 
On the Grifter tire I blacked out the neon MAXXIS logo ... wasn't working for me.

Not a very cool logo. I like their yellow one but def not for what you got going on here.

Well now that I'm thinking about it more, it probably was not the best use of the word.

I thought it was a great use of the word. Just kind of an un-common word.
 
Well, times have certainly dealt me a major setback, perhaps insurmountable with my lack of body finishing experience. I took my frame to my “body man expert” nephew to finish smoothing out the welds 5 WEEKS AGO!
I just had to go retrieve it tonight and I am now further behind then I was before I took it to him.
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1F23CFC3-59AA-4D77-AF36-275AB0AE2CF7.jpeg
FED3C638-CED2-4F6E-92FD-685BA9DC47BF.jpeg
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Not sure why all my photos are sideways, but should get the point across.
 
Sheesh, Uncle Shish, looks like 'nephew' is getting coal in his stocking this year.

I remember you had a cool paint scheme with the 'olive' and accents. So smooth welds / junctures would probably set that off the best. Another option would to be clean up the welds best you can, and go with more of a ratty frame, some Rat-ina applications, and add your new parts on to that.

Your design and build scheme are so cool, I'd hate to see you get derailed now!~
 
I was thinkin a sander with 40 or 60 or 80 grit would be safer. And a bit slower. But less chance of gouging.
...

Sandpaper on welds is just a good way to wear out sandpaper, and your arm. But there is a subtle art to angle grindering. Mastered through trial and error. Including the occasional gouge. Small cutting wheels on a dremmel work well for tight places. Just gotta be slow and gentle.

Looking good Uncle! Keep grinding away at it!
 
Nice work Unca Shish with the angle grinder. I also use the grinder with the grinding and sanding flap disk. I never owned an angle grinder until this Spring, and now I don't know how I ever lived without one!
 
Nice work Unca Shish with the angle grinder. I also use the grinder with the grinding and sanding flap disk. I never owned an angle grinder until this Spring, and now I don't know how I ever lived without one!
I’m not sure what the other tool is that you speak of.
I’m finding I need another tool for better detail and shaping ... or ... maybe just more experience!
 
Sandpaper on welds is just a good way to wear out sandpaper, and your arm. But there is a subtle art to angle grindering. Mastered through trial and error. Including the occasional gouge. Small cutting wheels on a dremmel work well for tight places. Just gotta be slow and gentle.

Looking good Uncle! Keep grinding away at it!
Thanks! I have made a little extra work for myself but not too bad. Learning some techniques that are working for me. At this point I felt I had nothing to lose ... either give it a go or drop out.
 
That's looking way better. Looks like you have plenty of material there to get it nice and smooth then maybe fill in the small voids with some filler?
 
I’m not sure what the other tool is that you speak of.
I’m finding I need another tool for better detail and shaping ... or ... maybe just more experience!
Same angle grinder tool, just a different wheel instead of the cutting or sanding wheel.
When you get the flap discs, get the adapter as well, it gets the wheel out away from the grinder more to get into tight spaces. And remove the shield / guard from the grinder as well.
Here's a stock photo of some discs. I usually use the 60 grit, but it comes in a finer 80 grit and rougher 40 grit as well.
flapdiscs.jpg

Here's a vid where this guy uses an extra lock nut to extend the range of your disc (surface area covered) and still able to use the guard.

 
Same angle grinder tool, just a different wheel instead of the cutting or sanding wheel.
When you get the flap discs, get the adapter as well, it gets the wheel out away from the grinder more to get into tight spaces. And remove the shield / guard from the grinder as well.
Here's a stock photo of some discs. I usually use the 60 grit, but it comes in a finer 80 grit and rougher 40 grit as well.
View attachment 99519
Here's a vid where this guy uses an extra lock nut to extend the range of your disc (surface area covered) and still able to use the guard.



+1 On That! The best tool ever, for like everything! Grinding, cutting, removing paint, peeling potatoes, opening beer bottles, unscrewing rusty nuts, shaving, waking up people at 4:00 am when you try to rip of the last bits off paint from your car... (That's why they call me the Proffesional Wheel Of Death Operator)
 
A die grinder (pneumatic) is a good choice for such work as you can pick up a variety of bits for different rates of removal and fine contouring work...carbide/tungsten, stones, sand paper barrels...plus pretty much everything you can put on an angle grinder.
 
A die grinder (pneumatic) is a good choice for such work as you can pick up a variety of bits for different rates of removal and fine contouring work...carbide/tungsten, stones, sand paper barrels...plus pretty much everything you can put on an angle grinder.
I think I would like to try that tool someday!
I was starting to get the hang of it pretty well with the angle grinder, by the time I decided it was lookin pretty good for a rookie!
 

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