New Departure Model D Rebuild

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I rebuilt mine using this thread, not too bad. So here are a few things to check. Did you lube with oil or grease (should be oil in the hub, grease in the bearings only)? Make sure the stack up is disc, tab, disc, tab, disc, tab.Is there a disc and tab every other. Disc's should measure .035 each. Did the cone seat?

Bart
 
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BARTO said:
I rebuilt mine using this thread, not too bad. So here are a few things to check. Did you lube with oil or grease? Is there a disc and tab every other. Did the cone seat? Did you easier the discs, I think they should be .035 each.

Bart
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First I used oil, then added grease. Every disc has a tab, didn't measure them. And yes, the cone did seat.

I think my issue is using grease on the discs, I'll dig into it again Saturday to see if anything broke and if I can get it working.
 
Falstaff said:
First I used oil, then added grease. Every disc has a tab, didn't measure them. And yes, the cone did seat.

I think my issue is using grease on the discs, I'll dig into it again Saturday to see if anything broke and if I can get it working.
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No grease on the discs! They are like a clutch pack or brake shoes they create friction to stop you. Believe I read to use hypoid oi (heavy)l on the discs. I figure the idea is the grease on the ends (bearings and cone) seal the oil in and keep dirt out.
 
I did the same thing...had to take it back apart, clean it and reassemble it using oil. I didn't measure the disc's as I found out what the thickness was supposed to be after the fact..oh well, now I know. Also, with my initial assembly, my cone didn't seat properly, but that was an easy fix. All in all, I think these are fairly simple to work on once you get them all hashed out. Good luck with it!
 
The funny part about my reassembly is I have some rotating play in the crank. Riding along all fat, dumb and happy, when I apply the break, it rotates appx 90 or more degrees backwards. When I start pedaling fwd, it rotates greater than 90 degrees the other way. I assumed it was because of the worm gear and the amount of engagement required to compress the discs. Not sure, but I'm OK with it.

Good luck with your assembly...kinda fun.

BART
 
horsefarmer said:
No grease on the discs! They are like a clutch pack or brake shoes they create friction to stop you. Believe I read to use hypoid oi (heavy)l on the discs. I figure the idea is the grease on the ends (bearings and cone) seal the oil in and keep dirt out.
Click to expand...
Yea, the clutch thing hit me last night. I don't think of bike parts acting like car parts. I'll get it rebuilt again today.

BARTO said:
The funny part about my reassembly is I have some rotating play in the crank. Riding along all fat, dumb and happy, when I apply the break, it rotates appx 90 or more degrees backwards. When I start pedaling fwd, it rotates greater than 90 degrees the other way. I assumed it was because of the worm gear and the amount of engagement required to compress the discs. Not sure, but I'm OK with it.

Good luck with your assembly...kinda fun.

BART
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Thanks.
My bullrat bike brakes just like that. Typical issue with Murray Westport.
 
@Falstaff , Like I said when I put mine together it acted funky (kinda dragged and did not coast real well for maybe 10 mi or so, was gonna pull it apart - but then it straightened up... :thumbsup:
 
Got it. Thanks for the help.
Still makes the clicking noise that lead me to take it apart, I now think that noise is the rollers of the chain making contact with the cog teeth.
 
After I put mine together it did make a kind of click ir grind noise when coasting but it went away after a couple of rides.
 
Falstaff said:
Mine only does it when pedaling, it stops when I'm coasting.
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After relube of mine there was a grinding noise only when coasting, and if I adjusted pedal position slightly, I could get it to stop making noise totally.
As the hub broke in this noise went away.
I greased everything but the discs - I just applied a coating of heavy oil to both sides of each one.
 
Bigwaves said:
Hey folks! Great site. I have been lurking and learning for a while. I will post pix of my '61 Schwinn American I have been cobbling together in the proper area when appropriate.

I followed the instructions and did a rebuild of my ND modD hub. All went well, I think.

I noticed 3 teeth were missing on the "brake washer shoes" (single tooth on 3 different discs) after cleaning and light wet/dry sanding - upon reassemble, I made sure to spread the missing teeth out and not in same alignment. Just seemed logical, right or wrong! :roll:
Here is my area of question... :?:
I can lock up the brake and create a skid when desired. However, sometimes, it can rotate almost 3/4 reverse turn prior to break engaging. Additionally, when starting out, the crank can turn almost a full turn prior to drive engaging.

Is this a simple cone adjustment, or do I need to reassemble differently. I have pics, but do not know how to post! :oops:
Thanks in advance
Steve
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
deorman said:
Do you have enough discs? (8 outer tab, 7 inside slot) Also make sure the transfer spring is snug and facing the right way on the brake clutch, it should only be able to spin in one direction. Pics-if you have web posting as part of your internet service, upload to your page, hit the Img button on the RRB post form, and enter the pic address. Otherwise, look here :arrow: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=172
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HOUSTON I MIGHT HAVE A PROBLEM! Or possibly not. I have 21 disc's. 11 inside slot, & 10 outside tab. They do mic at 19mm though. I was hoping to get rid of the one with the missing part though. If I do, I loose .97mm. My disc's are all steel. Any advice?
Thanks
Larry
 

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