Need Coaster Brake Advice

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jerrykr

jerrykr

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Need advice.

I have a cruiser with a Falcon FC-E10 (sez so on the brake arm) coaster brake. It works well, problem is it "growls" when coasting. Sounds like a fender brace is rubbing the tire. If you press back just a hair like you are going to apply the brake it quiets down. The brake works except for that. I completely went thru it, cleaned and greased it up. No change. It had plenty of grease when I took it apart. No apparent wear on the brake shoes or anything else I could see. Bike shop suggested adjusting the cones. I did, -- loose, tight, and just right, and still have the problem. Anyone ever run into this, and what did you do? Thanks.
 
You could try swapping some KT or shimano guts. Or take the brake shoes and grind down the leading edges on both sides of the brake pads.
 
I think the link that Kenny posted above might be the best avenue towards fixing this. I like the idea of a full Shimano cb-e110 guts swap, but that won't help if the hub shell is scored where the clutch-cone engages...
 
This is on a Chinese Schwinn that I bought to flip. Nice looking bike, but I have to get it quiet to sell it. Thanks for the information. I'll take it back apart.

cman said:
You could try swapping some KT or shimano guts. Or take the brake shoes and grind down the leading edges on both sides of the brake pads.
Click to expand...

I'll save this for 2nd try if the cone is not scored. I notice the inside of the hub seemed to to be scored where the brake pads contact it. I say scored, maybe worn, but if feels smooth. I polished it a bit to be sure there was nothing on the surface. The bike is almost new, can't have too many miles on it.

Thanks.
 
cman said:
Looking at that link plus a post at bikeforums, it probably is a scored hub shell. New guts wont' work.
Click to expand...

I agree but i am very curious as to whether or not the Falcon hub will accept the Shimano guts. Falcon is the one current-production coaster hub that i've had very little experience with, but i hear it uses a metric axle and i wonder if the shell's ID matches the KT and Shimano shells. It'd have to match at the bearing races, the braking surface, and the area where it steps down to engage the cone in order to drive would have to be the same ID, as well as have a matching location in relation to the rest of the hub's guts. And, in all likelihood, it probably does match... but i am curious to find out for sure. (FWIW, i've swapped several KT hubshells to Shimano guts, with zero issues..)
 
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Personally, I'd simply pack the crap out of it with some good white lithium grease. This should quiet it down
 
I have a 15 year old Chopper bike I made with the same "banshee" hub. It has never failed, I have found it fun to control the howl as I ride though. My experience is there is the hub internals and/or the inside of the shell that may not be machined or polished to proper smoothness. So if you swap the guts it may fix it, it may not. I would just get used to it though.
 

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