Anyone interested in a stock coaster hub? I rode the bike for about a mile and I'm getting ready to swap it out for a freewheel/disc hub I would like $30 just to cover some of the funds I payed for the new hub... Send me a message if interested otherwise it will sit in my parts box. Thanks
Mongoose Beast Fat Bike build and ideas
- Thread starter yoothgeye
- Start date
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I got it from choppers u.s....http://www.choppersus.com/store/ ... -Disc-BLK/
He flange is larger so ill have to get new spokes ...was hoping it'd be the same...oh well. I also just ordered an avid bb7 disc brake with 180mm roor off eBay for 40$ there are more one there I think , but that's a good price.
He flange is larger so ill have to get new spokes ...was hoping it'd be the same...oh well. I also just ordered an avid bb7 disc brake with 180mm roor off eBay for 40$ there are more one there I think , but that's a good price.
Here is a thought I had while riding yesterday. If a person had two rear wheels would it be possible to gear them differently (one for flats, one for hills) and get the front fork to stretch wide enough to run a rear wheel inside the dropouts? That way you would have a choice of gearing. Might have to cut the dropouts and weld them on the outside of the fork legs? Use a bracket to hold the brake arm, etc...
Gravelo said:
I designed my quad that way. The front wheel is a spare rear wheel. Same axle diameter and OLD, same hub, same rim, spokes, tires. But I can't ride that bike with just 1 wheel so it didn't matter other than having a sturdy front wheel. With a disk brake and 7 speed freewheel, I didn't need the gearing option you are talking about.
Lots of fixies/single speeds have a flip flop rear hub. The bike I just rode has a 17t and a 18t single speed freewheels. I'd have to carry a wrench to reverse it as it has bolt on axles. Others will do a fixie and single freewheel instead.
None of these use a coaster brake though. You would need to pack tools with you all the time. Axle nut wrench, brake arm bolt wrenches.
R
How would you deal with the coaster brakes using a chain tensioner?yoothgeye said:
Well, you can't really. Most chain tensioners won't hold their position when applying that much pressure. But you can just slide the wheel forward or back in the horizontal dropouts as long as your gear difference isn't too much.
Figure about 0.159" (~5/32") (~4mm) of horizontal adjustment needed for each tooth difference in cog size. Horizontal dropouts typically give you about 1 inch range so that's about 6 or 7 tooth difference you can accomodate without having to add or remove a link from the chain.
rick
Figure about 0.159" (~5/32") (~4mm) of horizontal adjustment needed for each tooth difference in cog size. Horizontal dropouts typically give you about 1 inch range so that's about 6 or 7 tooth difference you can accomodate without having to add or remove a link from the chain.
rick
Well, I joined the club, happy birthday to me, thanks mom!
Going to use it to promote my bike sales/repair. Already de-crapified, added Ascent suspended seat post, Bontrager SSR seat, Dyno pretzel bars, and VP707 pedals. Got a crank/sprocket idea that looks good, but I would have to grind some material off the crank arms for them to work, and not sure I want to do that, plus the sprocket is way bigger so it probably won't work too well (46 tooth). Still fun to mess with.
Going to use it to promote my bike sales/repair. Already de-crapified, added Ascent suspended seat post, Bontrager SSR seat, Dyno pretzel bars, and VP707 pedals. Got a crank/sprocket idea that looks good, but I would have to grind some material off the crank arms for them to work, and not sure I want to do that, plus the sprocket is way bigger so it probably won't work too well (46 tooth). Still fun to mess with.
Uh-oh...what has The Toe-Cutter done now? Seems he's slipped with the cutting wheel and accidentally hacked off the back end of a very valuable OCC Chopper!:
More on this story as it develops...
More on this story as it develops...
What has two thumbs and a short attention span? THIS GUY!
Maybe if this guy could focus on one project, something cool would roll out of the garage once in a while?
Don't worry, there will be full documentation of this process soon, but here's a couple hints: oil drain pan + magnets...
How does $40 and change for a set, all in, sound? (Plus maybe $20-$25 in tools, if you don't have them already?)
Maybe if this guy could focus on one project, something cool would roll out of the garage once in a while?
Don't worry, there will be full documentation of this process soon, but here's a couple hints: oil drain pan + magnets...
How does $40 and change for a set, all in, sound? (Plus maybe $20-$25 in tools, if you don't have them already?)
Just got my beast and the ideas are flowing. So many different ways you can go with this bike...The UPS guy told me it's the heaviest bike he's ever delivered--that's why they call it The Beast! Had all the issues that everyone else is talking about--scratched paint, stiff BB, headset. Greased up the BB and it spins great. Hit the web and ordered some parts-an FSA crankset that was cheap and I'm praying works without clanking the frame. NOS shimano headset scored on the cheap from ebay. Some other odds and ends, actually it's beginning to add up--I keep coming up with more ideas. My wife is starting to get suspicious cause I'm always looking for the mailman--she knows what that means. Question: I'm gonna spraybomb it. Did you guys strip it down or just sand and prime and paint?
motorhedfred said:
It's hard to say, you'd have to see it in person. It's oval, 1 3/8 x 1 5/8 where it connects in the front, 1 5/8 x 2" where it connects in the rear, and it gets bigger in the middle.
