(MBBO4 Class 1) Super Slingshot

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Thank you brother.

What caught my eye out of all the things you were posting about your build all last year was that 10 speed Super Stock deal. I really want to do some kind of tribute to that bike some day with all the modern gear on it.

I really wasn't expecting The Musclepunk to come out nearly as nice as it did....but yes part of the "punk" was punking you for sure..:21::21:..and you are one of my favorite Musclepunks CRASH because you have a great blend of bike weirdy in you as well as being a real muscle bike guy.

I don't know if I will ever consider myself a real muscle bike guy but I love the muscle bikes and am really fascinated by the whole culture.

This has the potential to be your greatest build yet CRASH......don't let us down..:p..but you've really inspired me with these Huffys...you've got a great eye for what makes a muscle bike cool.
 
4ftjuO.jpg

I think with a different fastener on the fender you'd be okay.
Countersink the hole in the tab and use a flush mount machine screw.

Carl.
 
I think with a different fastener on the fender you'd be okay.
Countersink the hole in the tab and use a flush mount machine screw.

Carl.
That still wouldn't alleviate the problems I have in the back with the nut hitting the fender. We'll get it figured out today and I'll probably have the fix in by Thursday. I've got plenty more to keep me busy on this bike with parts polishing, and I still have more frame prep to do on the Spyder. I may be painting on Christmas! Ugh
 
Talked to my chrome guy, he still hasn't even started my guard. I'm getting annoyed. But rather than just sitting around waiting I came up with an idea. Since the back of my flaming stack won't be changed I'll just borrow my daughter's Stack to figure out where I'm going to put the mounting hole. So I told the guy I can give him till the 30th to have it completely done. I hope he comes through or I'm going to be missing a majorly cool piece of this build and I'll be thoroughly pissed off. Now that I have this plan, I want to get the frame into paint as soon as I can so I can give it some cure time.

To fix my brake mounting issues my bud brazed a fender bolt to the tab. I brought it home and tested how it all would fit. First thing I noticed is that I couldn't just slide the fender up with the fender hole as it existed.

9nZOly.jpg



So I elongated the hole into an oval and the fender had room to slide up flush with the tab.

4iV5LW.jpg



We weren't working with a lot of clearance between the tire and the fender, so seeing this wasn't good.

aZY8Ox.jpg



I tore it down and a Dremel tool made quick work of it.

yQ33Dq.jpg



I have to mount the brake before the fender, but that's ok. As you can see, there is now plenty of clearance under the brake.

KssClx.jpg



And even some clearance in the mounting nut in the back. To help that I installed a slightly thinner nut.

ZXJ5eq.jpg



So that ended the mods I needed my friend for, so I wanted to finish all the mods to the frame tonight so I could start prepping for paint tomorrow. First up, as mentioned, is the mounting hole for my Flaming Stack. Since I didn't have the actual custom stack I had to guess. So I pulled up my son's Rail next to me for visual reference.

Yq4ShE.jpg



I guessed the height over the sprocket with the chain on, then figured out a rough angle based on what I saw on the Rail, and adjusted for the particulars of the frame. This is where is landed.

4pdz9Q.jpg



So I marked it, punched it, drilled it, and tapped it.

iEh8cf.jpg



I still had to strip the paint off the front triangle of the bike, so I disassembled everything... again. When I took off the sissy and took the seat off of it, I pulled out the NOS Huffy Sissy Pad. I've been meaning to try it out on this custom sissy. (In case I didn't mention it, this sissy was custom made specifically for this bike. The guy who makes them is particular with the type of mounting you want to us, so naturally I went with Huffy. I also bought some NOS Huffy sissy mounts from Rob Eagleeye... who I also got the NOS pad from)
The custom sissy is a little thinner at the top than the Troxel sissy that Huffy used.

Q90bWm.jpg



You can see here the problem that presents. The bar doesn't fill out the inside of the pad.

E0jBna.jpg


9ojVTH.jpg


So what I'm going to do is go buy some dense foam that I can shape, and stuff it in there to fill out that pad. But I'll do that while the paint is curing. Back to the bike...

A couple hours of stripping, sanding, and filing later... (I also like to clean up the welds and knock down and smooth out excess braze) I was ready to drill the head badge rivet holes.

So I measured and marked the center of the head tube.

DoDLJi.jpg



Placed my head badge where it needs to go. (It looked weird at first glance so low, but I verified the placement on a Super Stock, Huffy put the top of the head badge at the bottom of the side top tubes.)

6pPGhZ.jpg



I marked them, punched them, and drilled them.

HBqGh4.jpg



I may have mentioned it before, but there were two holes in the head tube to mount the tank of the El Dorado. Even though they would have been hidden, they bugged me. So my friend brazed them. Now with the holes drilled it looks just like an unpainted Super Stock!

Here's a shot of a rivet sitting in the a hole.

EWQl8i.jpg


So that's it for tonight. It's after 11. Tomorrow I'll clean the frame with Acetone, spray its first coat of etch primer, and give it a little bondo to smooth out some spots.

I've got a ton of bondo on the fork, so I have a LOT of sanding to do tomorrow.
 
Talked to my chrome guy, he still hasn't even started my guard. I'm getting annoyed. But rather than just sitting around waiting I came up with an idea. Since the back of my flaming stack won't be changed I'll just borrow my daughter's Stack to figure out where I'm going to put the mounting hole. So I told the guy I can give him till the 30th to have it completely done. I hope he comes through or I'm going to be missing a majorly cool piece of this build and I'll be thoroughly pissed off. Now that I have this plan, I want to get the frame into paint as soon as I can so I can give it some cure time.

To fix my brake mounting issues my bud brazed a fender bolt to the tab. I brought it home and tested how it all would fit. First thing I noticed is that I couldn't just slide the fender up with the fender hole as it existed.

9nZOly.jpg



So I elongated the hole into an oval and the fender had room to slide up flush with the tab.

4iV5LW.jpg



We weren't working with a lot of clearance between the tire and the fender, so seeing this wasn't good.

aZY8Ox.jpg



I tore it down and a Dremel tool made quick work of it.

yQ33Dq.jpg



I have to mount the brake before the fender, but that's ok. As you can see, there is now plenty of clearance under the brake.

KssClx.jpg



And even some clearance in the mounting nut in the back. To help that I installed a slightly thinner nut.

ZXJ5eq.jpg



So that ended the mods I needed my friend for, so I wanted to finish all the mods to the frame tonight so I could start prepping for paint tomorrow. First up, as mentioned, is the mounting hole for my Flaming Stack. Since I didn't have the actual custom stack I had to guess. So I pulled up my son's Rail next to me for visual reference.

Yq4ShE.jpg



I guessed the height over the sprocket with the chain on, then figured out a rough angle based on what I saw on the Rail, and adjusted for the particulars of the frame. This is where is landed.

4pdz9Q.jpg



So I marked it, punched it, drilled it, and tapped it.

iEh8cf.jpg



I still had to strip the paint off the front triangle of the bike, so I disassembled everything... again. When I took off the sissy and took the seat off of it, I pulled out the NOS Huffy Sissy Pad. I've been meaning to try it out on this custom sissy. (In case I didn't mention it, this sissy was custom made specifically for this bike. The guy who makes them is particular with the type of mounting you want to us, so naturally I went with Huffy. I also bought some NOS Huffy sissy mounts from Rob Eagleeye... who I also got the NOS pad from)
The custom sissy is a little thinner at the top than the Troxel sissy that Huffy used.

Q90bWm.jpg



You can see here the problem that presents. The bar doesn't fill out the inside of the pad.

E0jBna.jpg


9ojVTH.jpg


So what I'm going to do is go buy some dense foam that I can shape, and stuff it in there to fill out that pad. But I'll do that while the paint is curing. Back to the bike...

A couple hours of stripping, sanding, and filing later... (I also like to clean up the welds and knock down and smooth out excess braze) I was ready to drill the head badge rivet holes.

So I measured and marked the center of the head tube.

DoDLJi.jpg



Placed my head badge where it needs to go. (It looked weird at first glance so low, but I verified the placement on a Super Stock, Huffy put the top of the head badge at the bottom of the side top tubes.)

6pPGhZ.jpg



I marked them, punched them, and drilled them.

HBqGh4.jpg



I may have mentioned it before, but there were two holes in the head tube to mount the tank of the El Dorado. Even though they would have been hidden, they bugged me. So my friend brazed them. Now with the holes drilled it looks just like an unpainted Super Stock!

Here's a shot of a rivet sitting in the a hole.

EWQl8i.jpg


So that's it for tonight. It's after 11. Tomorrow I'll clean the frame with Acetone, spray its first coat of etch primer, and give it a little bondo to smooth out some spots.

I've got a ton of bondo on the fork, so I have a LOT of sanding to do tomorrow.
Awesome progress! Loving it!

Luke.
 
Awesome job so far, I've been learning a lot from your builds. Now I have an itch to scratch, gotta build a man sized Huffy Rail like your Super Stock!
 
Looking awesome Crash,love your detail reports on what you do,something I lack in is taking more pictures and explaining what I am doing i.e how and what I used to mount the rear and front lights on metrorat instead of just doing it putting them on and taking a picture afterwards with "added these cool things"you give what I would say "history" to your builds detailing how,what,why giving people more insight into our builds,as allways top build my friend
 
I enjoy telling a detailed story as it adds to the depth of the build and I get to explain what's going on in my brain.
I think I also like the pressure because it focuses me. So being down to the wire is good for me. But having to rely on someone else to come through worries me.
waiting that long for someone to do a smaller job I would be super pissed,my last build off bike was a bit stressing for me as things changed but it was a good stress,this build off I took the rough idea and go with the flow mentality,but in saying that I need to do some sign writing today to put it into the close to finish stage
 
I enjoy telling a detailed story as it adds to the depth of the build and I get to explain what's going on in my brain.
I think I also like the pressure because it focuses me. So being down to the wire is good for me. But having to rely on someone else to come through worries me.
Have to praise Crash for the detailed pics and build threads he does, I know from experience how much slower that can make a build, having to stop and get photo's all the time gets old fast! I don't get anywhere near the photo's I used to, just found it too wearing and progress was too slow!

Luke.
 
That being said, Luke, I didn't take a lot today. I got a bunch done this morning, but at about 11am I got busy for the next 11 hours.

As you know, the fork had a lot of the custom work done to it, joining two forks into one. That comes with a heavy cost of labor in making the fork look seamless. As seen in a previous update, I spent a few hours with a hand file and heavy sand paper. Then I gave it a coat of etch primer. Then I liberally applied bondo. This morning, after letting the bondo set for about a day, I went to work wearing it down. As you can see, there are a lot of high and low spots that are working themselves out. I think I'm done with bondo and will complete the smoothing with Build primer.

DuE90q.jpg



With Acetone I cleaned up the frame from last night's metal work, then I shot a coat of etch primer, as seen here. (It was a beautiful California day!) After this I was able to better see where I needed some light bondo work. It's heaviest where the middle top tube joins with the down tube. Originally that left a little "dip" where they didn't put in enough braze, or maybe it just leaked to the side (because I had to file a ton of it off the side.) I wanted that joint to transition as seamlessly as I could, so I bulked on the bondo with plans to shape and smooth it. So all of that is drying overnight.

TxM8as.jpg



Tomorrow I plan on smoothing out the bondo and primer, shooting a little more etch to cover my sanding, then starting with the layers of build primer. I have a "date" on Monday for the paint booth. Today I bought the purple, and it's going to really pop against the green! I can't wait to shoot it!
 
That being said, Luke, I didn't take a lot today. I got a bunch done this morning, but at about 11am I got busy for the next 11 hours.

As you know, the fork had a lot of the custom work done to it, joining two forks into one. That comes with a heavy cost of labor in making the fork look seamless. As seen in a previous update, I spent a few hours with a hand file and heavy sand paper. Then I gave it a coat of etch primer. Then I liberally applied bondo. This morning, after letting the bondo set for about a day, I went to work wearing it down. As you can see, there are a lot of high and low spots that are working themselves out. I think I'm done with bondo and will complete the smoothing with Build primer.

DuE90q.jpg



With Acetone I cleaned up the frame from last night's metal work, then I shot a coat of etch primer, as seen here. (It was a beautiful California day!) After this I was able to better see where I needed some light bondo work. It's heaviest where the middle top tube joins with the down tube. Originally that left a little "dip" where they didn't put in enough braze, or maybe it just leaked to the side (because I had to file a ton of it off the side.) I wanted that joint to transition as seamlessly as I could, so I bulked on the bondo with plans to shape and smooth it. So all of that is drying overnight.

TxM8as.jpg



Tomorrow I plan on smoothing out the bondo and primer, shooting a little more etch to cover my sanding, then starting with the layers of build primer. I have a "date" on Monday for the paint booth. Today I bought the purple, and it's going to really pop against the green! I can't wait to shoot it!
So looking forward to seeing this paint!

Luke.
 
That gorgeous California day I posted yesterday has blown away. It's dropped 15 degrees as the clouds have rolled in and will be raining shortly. I'm trying to get as much done as I can before I have other stuff to do. So, the "body work" continues.

Here's a pic of the gooped on bondo. I'm learning that if you make it too thick it cracks.

yvCAmq.jpg


I sanded all that down and it looks pretty good, except for a tiny crack of bondo at the base. I just hit it with some primer and that's how I saw it.

0lMtfl.jpg


So I'll clean that up a little more. I cleaned up the other small spots of bondo and smoothed the tubes and gave it another thin coat of etch. I'll smooth out a couple small areas and hopefully shoot some Filler before the day is out. I'm going to have a ton of Filler sanding (along with the Spyder) and I'm heading to the booth on Monday.

While I was waiting for a coat of primer to dry I decided to give something a try that I've been meaning to get to. Someone told me this technique a while back to install the spring in a Slingshot fork without damaging the paint or the chrome on the spring. I had the spring rechromed, so don't want to lose that 'wow' factor. I forgot to take a "before" pic, but trust me, the spring is longer than the space it fits in.

I put a washcloth in the vise to protect the chrome, then I squeezed the spring together.

k6uX7v.jpg



I inserted a couple zip ties around it and cinched them down, then took the tension off the spring. It was held compressed.

ExD3Ma.jpg



Now you can see that it will nicely fit in the space.

PIzAuY.jpg



The question is, should I cut the zip ties and do this again in 2 weeks to avoid the spring retaining where the zip ties are holding it? Or will it "spring" back without a problem when I build the bike?
 
Last edited:
Lack of a metallurgical education aside, I think the memory would be pretty lengthy in something that thick. If that concerned though, zip ties are cheap. Love the build. Cheers.
 
I'm telling mom you're using her pink washclothes...
Cut them and cinch em' up again later...

Carl.
 

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