(MBBO #5 Class II) Four-gone Conclusion...

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Contact cement is not supposed be applied wet, nor thickly coated. You want spray some on both pieces and let the solovents evaporate. You wont have the issue with slimy glue moving around as u try stretch it. Biggest error with using is using far too mutch. You do not want a glue sandwich.
Its half what youd think wad enough
 
pholTmonx said:
Contact cement is not supposed be applied wet, nor thickly coated. You want spray some on both pieces and let the solovents evaporate. You wont have the issue with slimy glue moving around as u try stretch it. Biggest error with using is using far too mutch. You do not want a glue sandwich.
Its half what youd think wad enough
Click to expand...

that's so true...I know because I've done about 500 laminate countertops over the years. always with a spreader, or brush..then you wait until it doesn't stick to your finger...then press it together and hope everything is aligned....lol, and roll it out.

But I never used the glue in a can and now you gave me a good way to look at it...it's basically just spray contact cement...

thanks
franco
 
Its exactly that... unfortunatly epa has made it harder to get quality stuff... i need buy red cans in pints in my area or need buy bootleg gallons from hood upolsteryshops. The dap stuff in green cans, the low voc stuff, is useless. Wont hold a headliner up.
You want to see webbing as u spray, not a coat.. too mutch and there is nothing holding itself together but glue on glue.
 
franconuevo said:
Looking good OJ....
Nice work on the seat
That seat cover material looks just like some I used on a recent..(actually my very first seat re-cover) I did on a little BMX.
And I used the same spray adhesive....
Lemme ask you Odd Job..do you use the adhesive all over faux material to attach it to the foam, or just underneath the lip part.....?
How long do you clamp it?
I thought this stuff was instant...and maybe I was impatient too...
well, yeah, I was impatient...and just sprayed it and stretched it around...
.looks good but it's not really holding well underneath the lip.

View attachment 34029
I mean, you get the stuff on your fingers and pick up a pencil and you can't shake it off, I din't know you were supposed to clamp it.

Just wondering, cuz I'll be building the entire seat for the muscle bike....
:happy:

Franco
Click to expand...
Franco, glad you like the seat. First of all, be sure you have the 3M 77 Super Adhesive. There is a difference in the holding strength.

Secondly, I spray the foam pad on the seat all the way around, and then apply the fabric / leather / etc.

Next, I take about 10 minutes to smooth out the fabric and press and hold it into shape with my hands. Making sure it adheres all around on the foam pad.

Then I turn the seat over, and here is where it gets tricky. Hold the nozzle of the can really close to the area you want to spray to avoid overspray. This time, I spray the 'flaps' of fabric that will stick to the seat pan underneath. Since it will not be seen, it's okay to use a little more than on the seat top.

I do it in small sections, like both sides of the rear of the seat, then clamp those. Then the middle two sides and clamp, etc. I pull lightly while I clamp it, depending on the fabric, but not 'stretching it'.

It's not necessary to leave it clamped too long. Usually for an hour or two is fine. Then, there will always be little pieces or overlap spots that don't stay down. That's when I get out the Goop glue and smear some on those spots with a thin pallet knife. Then clamp those specific areas. Again, leave the clamps on for just an hour or so. It sets up really quick, and holds like iron!
 
...and now I just read the other comments. Yes, do not apply heavily, and it should look like webbing, if you can see it. It doesn't show up too well on yellow-hued foam. The reason I massage it, is to have some pressure on the fabric and glue while it cures. You can let it sit for awhile before you lay it down, but it will also evaporate pretty quickly, depending on the weather. So don't wait too long.
 
Thanks for responding....
I didn't have that exact same adhesive...same brand, not the super
I like your seat coverings...I think that's what gave me the incentive to just do it....
opens up a whole new area, doesn't it?

Actually I did recover another little BMX with that same stretchy faux leather...and the kid that bought it, it was a cool bike...all he kept talkin' about was the seat.....hahaha...who knew?

now...where the heck did I put all of those little clamps
later O.J.
:happy:
F
 
franconuevo said:
Thanks for responding....
I didn't have that exact same adhesive...same brand, not the super
I like your seat coverings...I think that's what gave me the incentive to just do it....
opens up a whole new area, doesn't it?

Actually I did recover another little BMX with that same stretchy faux leather...and the kid that bought it, it was a cool bike...all he kept talkin' about was the seat.....hahaha...who knew?

now...where the heck did I put all of those little clamps
later O.J.
:happy:
F
Click to expand...
The seat or saddle is one of those places on the bike where you can express your artsy and crafty side. And it really gives it a custom look, and sets it apart from the production ones. Keep your eyes open at garage / rummage / yard (whatever they call them in FL) sales for real leather purses and port folios. They make the best covers and usually had for less than $5! RaT oN!
 
Added a little class to the muscle tonight. Front fender from my $5 girl's 5 spd donor bike, chopped, cropped, and dropped into the legs from the same. I'm really getting to like this dremel tool....
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Well, I had a feeling that was going to happen.

The shift lever (solid chromed steel) and ball knob are too heavy for the friction shift lever.

Went for a couple mile ride just now, and it keep wandering and slipping out of gear as the top-heavy lever, leveraged itself out of position.

Probably look for something *gasp* plastic, maybe T-shaped, for a replacement. I have an idea....something I use everyday....just have to 'resource' one. :nerd:
 
OneHorsePower said:
tightning it up to the max won't do it ?
with all the added leverage it should not cause a problem for shifting
Click to expand...
Naw. I even used a flat head screwdriver to tighten it down instead of the little d-ring. It just weighs too much, it's like a pendulum. Once it gets moving, there's no stopping it!~
 
After some help from an RRB member and some further research, my bike is definitely a Columbia branded bicycle. So I thought, why not let the whole world know? Picked this NOS head badge up from a guy on the 'bay...

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And then....a little 'signature' piece.

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...adds a little of that Wierd Oh image that I love!
 
Shoot OJ, if I had known you needed a headbadge I could've sold you one.
It wouldn't have been to expensive, and would have a bike attached to it... but I do have one.:113:


Anyhoo, you've got the bike looking good.:41:
 
Falstaff said:
Shoot OJ, if I had known you needed a headbadge I could've sold you one.
It wouldn't have been to expensive, and would have a bike attached to it... but I do have one.:113:


Anyhoo, you've got the bike looking good.:41:
Click to expand...
Thanks man. It is shaping up nicely. Went for a twilight ride just now. Rides smooth, no shakes or rattles. Now I need to solve my new shifter issue, possibly ponder a couple more add-ons I been contemplating, and call it good.
 
Emblem tops it :thumbsup:
maybe there is something to do with the original shifter to make your stick shift work ?
here is a good song to build and ride ;):dance2:
 

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