(MBBO #5 Class I) One-owner '68 Sting-Ray..and the OddJob Award!

[OddJob]

A couple months ago, my friend Randy asked me about restoring his '69 Schwinn Sting Ray so that once he has grand-children they would have a cool old bike to ride. He got this bike new as an 8 yr old, and has owned it ever since.

At one point of it's rambling about in the garage, it got pinned up against something by a car backing out. Fortunately, the action was aborted immediately and the result was only a bent handlebar and the rear triangle got pushed about 10-15 mms toward the drive side. So, I will have some 'body work' to do on this baby. And, last Sunday I picked up a '70s ape hanger bar from a local CL seller, so that problem is solved!

As all kids do, he thought it would be cool to paint his rear rim red (looks like house paint) and put a knobby Schwinn tire on it. And mimic the BMX style by pulling the 'naner seat and sissy bar to go with a small cruiser saddle. So I will need to find a relatively 'period correct' banana seat / bar combo as well. Otherwise, everything else is original to this bike. Should be fun!

He wants the vintage patina, including the stickers, left on the frame. So clean up, grease bearings, strip paint on the rim, polish chrome parts, wheel truing, and add replacement parts will be on the menu for this, my first ever bike restoration.

Here's how she sits on Day 1.....

Since this is my first restoration, I welcome hints / tricks / methods for frame straightening, paint removal, etc. RaT oN !

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Nice!
I have had good success with straightening rear triangles by just standing on the side that is straight and pulling up on the other.

Luke.

 

[KJV]

 

[furyus]

One owner - awesome! That's a special bike.

Here's my tip for you. If you want to get those hand grips off without damaging them, get a little lubricant in between them and the bars (WD40 is fine) and then heat them for a couple minutes with a hair dryer. Move the dryer around and let 'em get warm (without melting of course). Give them a twist and a tug every now and then and they should pull right off, undamaged. Pullling off the grips with pliers or other similar means ruins them every time (don't ask how I know - read it somewhere).

furyus

 

[Indyjps]

If you want to save the paint. Consider derusting the areas that need it and do a paint "wash" on it. I use a paint that's a close match and thin it with acetone, brush it on and let it start to set up, wipe with a rag dampened with mineral spirits -lightly just to smooth out brushstrokes.

The acetone dries fast, the mineral spirits slow. It may take a few "washes" but you get enough thinned paint to prevent corrosion, but still see the wear.

I need to do a how to thread with some pics.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

^ Good tips! They should probably both go in that Tips from the Pro's thread that is in the 'How To' section.

Luke.

 

[OddJob]

One owner - awesome! That's a special bike.

Here's my tip for you. If you want to get those hand grips off without damaging them, get a little lubricant in between them and the bars (WD40 is fine) and then heat them for a couple minutes with a hair dryer. Move the dryer around and let 'em get warm (without melting of course). Give them a twist and a tug every now and then and they should pull right off, undamaged. Pullling off the grips with pliers or other similar means ruins them every time (don't ask how I know - read it somewhere).

furyus

Thanks for the tip! I have a little spray can of a 'multi-lube' that was in my dad's toolbox I inherited 4 yrs ago. I have found that if I can just pull back a sliver of air space and spray it in there while the grip end is at a lower point, gravity will help spread it. Then with some twisting side to side and pulling down at the same time, they slide off pretty easily. My size XL Scandinavian mitts never met a grip they didn't like....

 

[OddJob]

If you want to save the paint. Consider derusting the areas that need it and do a paint "wash" on it. I use a paint that's a close match and thin it with acetone, brush it on and let it start to set up, wipe with a rag dampened with mineral spirits -lightly just to smooth out brushstrokes.

The acetone dries fast, the mineral spirits slow. It may take a few "washes" but you get enough thinned paint to prevent corrosion, but still see the wear.

I need to do a how to thread with some pics.

Thanks! Yes, I'd love to see the 'how-to' with pics thread!

 

[OddJob]

Nice!
I have had good success with straightening rear triangles by just standing on the side that is straight and pulling up on the other.

Luke.

Thanks Luke! Got some time in on the Schwinn last night. Used my wooden bench vise to hold the frame a couple different ways and ended up with a good result just applying little pull on the tubes. Now the problem is the rear wheel is pretty much a potato chip.....might be looking at a new rim....S-7 20" rear....anybody....Bueller...?

 

[furyus]

S2 would be correct for that bike. S7 is narrower.

furyus

 

[OddJob]

Day 1 progress report on the '69: Got it all apart. Not too much binding of bolts or rust, that was good. Put the frame in my wood vise on the work bench and got the frame lined up.

The grips came off in one, well, two pieces; which is good. The lube between the grip and bar method works well furyus / poetry man.

The front wheel spins like a DJ's dream......a spoke replacement, true it up, clean the chrome, and she's good to go!



The rear wheel is a different story altogether. It took some of the hit when the frame got bent in the 'accident'. I've eaten Lay's that were more round and true....



On the hunt for, yes @furyus, an S-2 rear rim. One spotted lurking on 'the bay' earlier this morning......

 

[The Renaissance Man]

You might surprise yourself with that rear rim. I have been able to true wheels with that much wobble before. Take it off and get as much of it out as possible first by placing it on two boards and carefully stepping on the high spots.

 

[Indyjps]

I think that wheel will straighten. Looks about like the one I did in nashbar back from the dead thread.
Get all the spokes lubed up and turning free, back them off and see where you are.
I use a dial indicator, doesn't have to be high end to true a rim.

 

[Chad T]

Cool project OJ! Love the Schwinns. FYI the '68/'69 Stingrays had unique handlebars that are some of the best looking Schwinn apes.

The Wald 880 bars are similar but not sure how they match size wise.

Chrysler Intense Blue Pearl Effect touch up paint will match that blue perfectly. I've used it on 2 bikes and it works great. I just clean the chips and dab it in them.

Great project.

I think I've got a decent S7 front rim if you cant get that one straight.

 

[OddJob]

Cool project OJ! Love the Schwinns. FYI the '68/'69 Stingrays had unique handlebars that are some of the best looking Schwinn apes.

The Wald 880 bars are similar but not sure how they match size wise.

Chrysler Intense Blue Pearl Effect touch up paint will match that blue perfectly. I've used it on 2 bikes and it works great. I just clean the chips and dab it in them.

Great project.

I think I've got a decent S7 front rim if you cant get that one straight.

Thanks for the props Chad! The bars I found are '70s sting ray bars, nice patina and the same size as the '69ers. I will def keep that Chrysler paint in my hat for the 'finishing touches'....

 

[OneHorsePower]

You might surprise yourself with that rear rim. I have been able to true wheels with that much wobble before. Take it off and get as much of it out as possible first by placing it on two boards and carefully stepping on the high spots.

what he sais ^^ true story !

 

[Chad T]

You might surprise yourself with that rear rim. I have been able to true wheels with that much wobble before. Take it off and get as much of it out as possible first by placing it on two boards and carefully stepping on the high spots.

I'm going to get a chance to test this technique soon. Guy at work brought me this to straighten.

 

[Chad T]

OJ I just noticed that this Stingray is a shorty frame so it could either be a '69 Junior Stingray or a '64/'65. Looks like those could be early wide Stingray bars so could be '64. A Junior would have smaller bars.

 

[OddJob]

Have a seat on the way, and a rear wheel with a matching Schwinn tire. The rim will match the front wheel. Got the front wheel spokes replaced and trued up nicely. Now for the rust removal* on the rim and some chrome polishing in my weekend plans....

*Can't believe I just typed "rust removal"...

 

[furyus]

OJ I just noticed that this Stingray is a shorty frame so it could either be a '69 Junior Stingray or a '64/'65. Looks like those could be early wide Stingray bars so could be '64. A Junior would have smaller bars.

Hey Odd, what's the serial number on the left dropout? Second letter E means 69 (first letter is the month A = Jan etc). Crank looks long for a Junior. 69 was a transitional year, too; lots of late '69s have the mag sprocket and different guard. The bars look like '70 style to me, but hard to tell from the angle and the smoosh.

furyus