Gichigami Growler Grabber - Finished!!! Pic on page 8

[DeuceWheeler]

So, the clear has been curing for the past 6 days and I can scrape it off with my finger nails. ...? I cleaned the frame good with soap and water, made sure it was dry, etc...
Should it take this long to set up? The can didn't mention any curing times.

 

[kingsting]

P.S. this is what I ordered "
Truvativ American-To-Euro Bmx Adapter"

Same adapter that's on my build. Dremel tool and some small files got a nice snug fit... I put a little grease on the cups too. Eliminates any chances of creaking.

 

[DeuceWheeler]

The bottom bracket on the firebolt is pretty gnarly, seems I'd be grinding for days to get the adapter to fit. It's too bad nobody makes a shallower adapter for bikes that have cup recesses. Might just have to go back to a one piece crank.

 

[SCHWINNRAY69]

Wow, looks great! You did the same thing as my BO bike for paint...clear coat the awesome patina!

 

[DeuceWheeler]

Thanks @SCHWINNRAY69

 

[DeuceWheeler]

Same adapter that's on my build. Dremel tool and some small files got a nice snug fit... I put a little grease on the cups too. Eliminates any chances of creaking.

@kingsting What dremel grinding bit did you use to hone out the bottom bracket to make the adapter fit?

 

[bikejunky]

You might consider grinding the softer aluminum cups. If you booger one up, they are replaceable, the frame is not.

 

[DeuceWheeler]

You might consider grinding the softer aluminum cups. If you booger one up, they are replaceable, the frame is not.

I started there but screwed up the threads on one of the cups.
I suppose I could re-tap the threads afterwords? I'll give it a shot.

 

[kingsting]

@kingsting What dremel grinding bit did you use to hone out the bottom bracket to make the adapter fit?

It was a little brown cylinder-shaped grinding stone. Mine didn't take a lot of work to get the fit right. There were some edges that needed knocked down. I also sanded the cups with some emery cloth in the spots where I could see they were hitting something.

 

[DeuceWheeler]

It was a little brown cylinder-shaped grinding stone. Mine didn't take a lot of work to get the fit right. There were some edges that needed knocked down. I also sanded the cups with some emery cloth in the spots where I could see they were hitting something.

Thanks, I have one of those.
Did you grind down the adapter or the bike's bottom bracket?

 

[kingsting]

Thanks, I have one of those.
Did you grind down the adapter or the bike's bottom bracket?

Just the bottom bracket shell. The machining for the factory cups wasn't quite deep enough in some spots for the adapter to fit in there flush.

 

[DeuceWheeler]

Just the bottom bracket shell. The machining for the factory cups wasn't quite deep enough in some spots for the adapter to fit in there flush.

Ok, thanks. I have that same issue. I need to grind away a 1/4 inch or more on each side to make it sit flush.

 

[kingsting]

Ok, thanks. I have that same issue. I need to grind away a 1/4 inch or more on each side to make it sit flush.

I had maybe 1/8" to deal with and I didn't have to go too deep. Just took a lot of trial and error but I got there...

 

[DeuceWheeler]

I am still grinding away, this is a sloooooooow process....

On another note, I am using Electra Wheels on this build and want to put disc brakes on the front.
Other than how many holes, what do I need to know for buying a disc ready hub? Can I buy one with a quick release? Do they come in different widths, I am not seeing any width dimensions on the hubs I am looking at?

I was looking at this

This is the info

• 6-bolt ISO disc mounting surface

• Double contact sealing

• Super polished bearing races for low friction rolling

• Light alloy QR lever and nut

 

[Frankie plekhand]

Ussually a front hub is 100 millimeter wide
I'm not sure how much that is in inches, i hope this helps you..

Frank

Customize!

 

[LukeTheJoker]

100mm is close enough to 4" wide.

If you have an option I would go a hub with standard axle nuts as opposed to the quick release, if your fork is not designed for a quick release (no indent where the lock sits) sometimes the force of braking can drive it down and out of the straight drops because the calliper is behind the axle centre line, best way around that is with a normal nutted axle or if that is not an option have a think about mounting your calliper in front of the fork leg.

Sometimes you may even need those little locking tabs that slip into a hole on the fork behind the nut.

It only happens rarely, but I just wanted to let you know...

Luke.

 

[DeuceWheeler]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the good advice!

 

[DeuceWheeler]

This is the fork I am planning to use, looks like a skewer should work?

I ordered the 26 cruiser disc fork from Bicycle Designer's website
http://www.bicycledesigner.com/bike...gid-forks-with-disc-brake-mount---chrome.html

I am also going to try out the MONSTER rotor setup.
It's wild looking!
http://www.bicycledesigner.com/bike-parts/bicycle-brake/monster-disc-brake-kit---front.html

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Dang! I've had smaller rotors on a car!


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[DeuceWheeler]

Dang! I've had smaller rotors on a car!


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Yeah, it's over the top for sure but worth tinkering with for the fun of it.