Gichigami Growler Grabber - Finished!!! Pic on page 8

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I like that plan.
I also think the Monark fork will look great with that frame.
 
Well, not much progress but I am incorporating a tap system on the bike.
More to come soon!

Check out the double sixel tap that I saw on one of the many employee bikes at the New Belgium Brewery in Fort Collins, CO
http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/new-belgium-brewery-tour-and-bikes.46195/
Photo_E25E2BA3-B419-EF0D-AA08-993C5A541754.jpg
 
Thoughts? Keep the whole frame the way it is or......

firecrankset.jpg


Or This? Paint would closely match the wheels, but would be worn down and faded quite a bit.


bolty.jpg


OR...Maybe paint it solid, bright blue to match the wheels instead of the faded look?
bolty2.jpg


Weather has been kinda crappy when I have a chance to work on the bike, so it gives me time to over-think things. My gut says, keep it the way it is.
 
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I'd say follow your gut. @ifitsfreeitsforme had bright wheels with his Super Western Flyer last year and I love the way he kept the patina on the rest of the frame. Just some subtle tie ins with the wheel color.
 
So, I was doing final cleanup before I cleared the frame and I noticed a break on the integrated rack inner-support brazing. Thankfully it's nothing major, but I want it fixed.
Do I need to look for someone to braze this or can I just have it welded?
I noticed the other day that we have a bernzomatic brazing setup at work, maybe I can do it myself?
 
If it was originally brazed (if you can tell), then you should probably braze it, but brazing will also burn away all signs of paint for several inches around the spot. If you MIG weld it, it'll only burn up about a 1/4" on either side, which is why I MIG weld old frames when I can.

For a repair on Avocado, I had to do some brazing, as that's what was there before, and welding and old braze doesn't mix.
 
If it was originally brazed (if you can tell), then you should probably braze it, but brazing will also burn away all signs of paint for several inches around the spot. If you MIG weld it, it'll only burn up about a 1/4" on either side, which is why I MIG weld old frames when I can.

For a repair on Avocado, I had to do some brazing, as that's what was there before, and welding and old braze doesn't mix.

Thanks, I appreciate the info. I am going to give it a shot with the brazing setup. We shall see how it goes. The frame is already mostly bare so a little burn mark should just add to the look.
 
You can usually braze a small area with the Bernzomatic torches......depending on the thickness of material. They are really designed for soldering and silver alloy brazing (silversolder) applications. Giving a lower temp flame, you will have to heat the area to be brazed for a lot longer. therefore heating up a lot more of the frame which will burn off more paint, and leave bigger heat marks. With an oxy-acetylene torch, you can get in and do the braze really quickly, then cool the area, which will lead to less paint damage.

My opinion is, if you can get it repaired by someone with brazing experience and oxy-acetylene gear, that's the way I would go. If all you have is the Bernzomatic torch, then use it..........it will work OK, but leave more evidence (burnt paint and discolored metal). If you do use the latter, then have a practice with some similar size metals.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks a ton for the tips guys.

More parts have arrived! The bummer is, the photo for the mushroom grips showed as bright blue, matching my rims. When they arrived, they are clearly not bright blue.

Here is the ebay listing photo. Clearly not the same color. I might have to return them.
$(KGrHqJHJBQE8e8QI8)GBPLHSG6Kuw~~60_12.JPG


bars.JPG
 
If anyone has a line on some bright blue mushroom style grips, please let me know.

Ideally they would be black on the ends and bright blue on the hand part of the grip.
 

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