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And indeed, they are interchangeable.
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By the way this hub is adjusted in third gear.
I used the rubber twist grip from a 7sp shifter and cut it to the width of the 3sp shifter, which actually sits well on the bars:
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Not sure on the grips yet.
 
I finally took it for a spin between rain showers. I rode for around 10 minutes, but that was enough to know if the bike was assembled properly.
It is geared a little low, but gears work as they should, the brakes are OK as well.
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The ride is cushy as expected and will probably get a little more cushier even, but we will see about that...
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The clamp for the reaction arm of the front brake is not my finest work obviously, but I haven't come up with another solution yet:
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The fully might receive a new frame. I finally didn't have to work Saturday so I was able to go to the biker treff where I get running bikes for really cheap (compared to the internet). It is usually a mix of old sweet builds, some rats where getting from A to B is only priority and anything beyond pure transportation is not yet discovered, and some awfully nixed bags of a newer mtb age.
So one like this was my choice and it is another MIFA made fully frame.
IMG_20200620_130052.jpg

To be honest I bought it for the fork. The fork on the original fully was a little bent. So I had to straighten it a bit, but it is not perfect yet. Also this one has both crowns bolted on and adjustable unlike the other one that has the one crown welded on.
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Looks really nice I think. I bought the bike for a 40. It also comes with other goodies. It has a disk brake:
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With an ISO-to-pm adapter nonetheless, then these are the dropouts, massive:
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The bars are typically ugly and cluttered. But bar ends included.
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The fork seems to be 1 1/8" ahead. I was thinking of swapping forks first. Then I had a look at the swing arm and I think it has more clearance than the other one so I might be able to run a thick brick or a berm masters as originally envisioned.
Not sure if I want to know what happened here:
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I replaced the seat post with that one from the other fully:
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I am not sure yet what exactly I do to the bike but just couldn't resist installing the matching seat post because it has these copper looking hubs and a kickstand as well. I actually even have a better match for the seat post clamp on the other fully.
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So a tire clearance test will be made and I will decide.
Initially I was thinking of taking the fork for the Felt Haribo since it would be a direct swap, but the truth is even that this fork has the right look the Rock shocks outperforms it tenfold. I am still unsure if I do that though.
I was also thinking of swapping forks and swing arms, but first, it will involve changing the headset on both frames and second those swing arms are probably pressed in, and third the pivot attachment points for the suspension are at different spots on the frames.
What makes me want to use the new frame is that I can just keep the fork and take the parts from the original fully. Also a closer look reveals a octagonal tubing which I rather liked:
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I am thrilled to see what it will be without stickers.
I don't know what I do then to the other fully. It might be built with the copper tone parts or around a nexus 7 again.
 
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And I got lucky, the swing arm is just a few mm wider at the chain stays and this was enough. I have a fat fully with a thick brick tire:
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I have around 3 mm clearance on each side which is OK by my standards.
I am not sure yet whether to expect chain line issues. I found my chain breaker today so I can replace the drive train.
 
I have no idea what that thing is. is the stickey outey bit a moveable lever? It's a weird spot for it to be damping adjustment or shock lockout. Is it attached to anything by cable or hose? I can't see how it would work where it is in the steerer without additional parts.
 
And it was just a plug.
So I was able to uneventfully transplant the drive train from the original fully. Also took the bars etc.
I just received a sweet wittkop seat:
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It is torn a little, but I will glue some patch on it.
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I also took this 26" front wheel. These are the original rims from my first Cruiser, also my first felt Cruiser. I had them relaced with these hubs when I was putting an electric motor in the Felt.
To be honest I would prefer a narrower rim or best a 24" wheel. We'll see, I might use the front wheel with the drum brake that was on the old fully... But it went there:
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We will see, I might get another drum brake front wheel.
This is how it sits for now:
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Some chain slack, might need some tensioner. The chain runs 3 mm past the tire. Enough clearance by my standards. Now of course I am thinking again about those moto bars. I think they will go better with the wheels and the seat.
 
And it is test ride ready. A fellow member from the German forum who lives in the next big city offered me to swap front wheels - his 24" Felt front wheel no tire plus a chain tensioner for my 26" Felt rim with Shimano hub and disk +qr and a quick brick.
So today after I came back from work, after what felt like an odyssey because of disrupted commuting due to railway repairs, I decided to swap the forks between the Felt Haribo and the new fully.
The rests of the bottom bearings from the fully. Plus the balls which are all over the room now.
IMG_20200627_181315.jpg

Weeee. Luckily I do have a good 1 1/8 " headset I can use so I cleaned and regreased the cups etc.
So the double crown went on the Felt which was robbed of the rock shox xc32 air suspension which is overkill anyway for a Cruiser.
IMG_20200627_182121.jpg

These stickers on the fork are incredibly tough to remove. One day I will get them though.
Then I installed the whole rock shox fork, with the wheel and the old second crown setup with the headlight. I like that look with identical rims and a narrower front tire quite a lot.
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The chain tensioner turned out to be a perfect fit.
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I mounted a tail light so it doesn't look uncomplete with only a headlight.
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I used a front light holder to bolt the tail light.
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Handlebars are a direct transplant from the original fully too:
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I took the plug from the shaft and put it in the hole of the damaged tube from the fake fork crown so it looks like it is a suspension setting or something:
IMG_20200627_181421.jpg

So basically I went and got a replacement front wheel for the Felt. Which by the way won't fit that double crown fork before I persuade it to be reasonable so we can both just move on. But that's another story.
Bars and headlight, I love these brake levers:
IMG_20200627_181718.jpg

The difference between the two forks in length is minimal, shafts were similar too so no unpleasant surprises. The rock shox will need to be pumped a bit more since the stance of this bike will put considerably more weight on the front.
The other fully frame got the suspension seat post and the suspension stem for a future build.
 
As a whole it looks like this bike is a "class" above the other fully. The fork is more serious, the swing arm wider and it takes a bit bigger rear shock than the other fully. Strangely enough this frame also doesn't have the option for different shock attachment points.
 
By the way it turned out that the triple tree fork had more than enough clearance for the 24x2,125 I put in it, so no problem with the Felt either.
But back to the fully. I got these BMX pedals for 12 bucks shipped for my daily bike (it has cheapest pedals which are slippery when wet):
IMG_20200723_205132.jpg

I didn't really looked at what I was buying, I was thinking cheap used BMX pedals, for that money they still beat anything I buy from the store new for a daily. So I was surprised they came with the box.
Then I was surprised to find a manual, two pins with a key. The pedals turned out much better than I expected, also bigger:
IMG_20200723_205259.jpg

So I decided to bolt them on the fully instead. The cnc pedals looked better on the older frame anyway.
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By the way can anyone tell me what this type of handlebars is called???
 
They look like good solid axles, if you can drip some oil in there to lube the bearings, steel BMX pedals are pretty tough, good to use for years.
Be careful with those little spikes, they can tear up your shins! I love the grip they provide, but are not to be treated lightly!
 
So far everything OK with the pedals, I am whole. :)
But I used to ride bear trap type pedals and in addition to cut through the soles of my sneakers, I had perforated shins on a regular basis.
I took finally the fully for a spin. Not bad. As far as comfort goes this is it. There is nothing better. The ride is as cushy as a motorcycle.
IMG_20200725_182659.jpg

The seating position was comfortable, but I was leaning forward and my junk was getting hot on the wide saddle.
As I write this I have already swapped the handlebars for a set of moto bars. But the pictures I made today are still with the old handlebars.
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It turns out that the bike is geared quite low. Not particularly fast, but really climby. So maybe in the future I will upgrade the BB and the crankset to something like hollowtech 2 or the adequate sram bb/cranks. Or maybe even electric..
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While I was replacing bars at home I noticed that the front tire had lost air. It turned out it was flat, it had a thorn in it. Not cool. I will be able to just swap the front wheel with the one from the Felt because they are identical, both from a Haribo. Still, a pain in the behind and I will have to get a set and fix that tube.
Now that the frame is complimented with these sweet parts I can't, but admit how uninteresting the crankset is. It was perfect on the older frame, but it is very bland here.
 
OK, I played some with the fully. I installed the original fork.
So the fully got a thick brick tire in the front as well. It also got the Felt stem that I flipped to gain some bar height, and it got the moto bars.
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I unscrewed the suspension spring nut and discovered a lot of distance between the end position of the nut and the point where the spring starts to compress. Is there supposed to be a longer spring there and where can I get one?
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So I just took the bracket I used on the other fork for the drum brake:
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I also removed the flimsy BB kickstand and bolted a mtb chainstays kickstand which is much sturdier and also looks much better:
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I ran the lowest bolt on the kickstand through the reaction arm bracket of the roller brake, which I first thought was in the way until I realized there is a hole for the bolt.
 
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Then I realized I had still the reaction arm bracket that wraps around the chain stays and it dawned on me that I can remove it since the reaction arm itself is bolted between the kickstand plates.
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Of course I just had to use my favorite v brake nuts:
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The plate is threaded but I didn't like how there was a few mm of bolts sticking out.
 
So, armed with my new pump today I decided to switch tires with the black Felt.
First the front:
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Then the rear:
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Aaaand, congratulations, you have opened the box of Pandora!
Since my new pump has a working display I found out that my tires were horribly underpumped - less than a bar. So once I pumped the rear tire around 2,5 I was shocked to discover that it rubs.
Of course the problem is that the wheels are not quite straight, they need truing. Now with the bike shop closed because of Corona they will stay like this unless I order a spoke key and start learning how to true them myself.
So it looks like the chain stays are more troublesome. I managed to get it not to rub, but I had to release some air. If I want it permanently solved, and with the tire over 2 bars I will have to indent the seat stays. I do have a plan, I checked a few threads that I remembered dealed with the issue.
Here with the berm masters:
IMG_20201119_172751.jpg
 

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