dirt jump urban assault content inside

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when i'm not cruising i'm shredding the dirt jumps or the rail outside the highschool in my custom built 2012 ns capital with way to much money invested, but hey lifetime warranty on frame and fork.
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21.5" ns capitol 2012
170mm s&m pitchfork

28"x4" atomlab trailpimp bars
cult grips
45mm mosh digital stem

175mm stolen mob cranks heat treated cromoly spindle
22t animal sprockey balmoa sprocket
aluminum sealed bearings stolen pedals

sealed bearings 14mm axle 36h demolition rogue rear hub laced with 14g double butted stainless spokes with stainless nipples to a 26" welded and machined rhyno lite wrapped in 26x2.1 tioga powerblock

sealed bearings 3/8 male bolts into 15mm cromoly axle 36h mission stalwart front hub laced with 14g double butted stainless spokes with stainless nipples to a 26" welded and machined rhyno lite wrapped in 26x2.1" tioga powerblock
 
Sweet bike, it has stickers!!!! I wish they'd made something nearly as cool when I was a kid!
 
I'm actually a 30 year old machinist by day that refuses to grow up. The fork is a bunch of strategically placed comic book cutouts, adhered and matte clear coated.
 
I finally quit ramps at 35 years old, not because I couldn't do it anymore, but real fear of a real injury.
I dropped in a ramp from the "tombstone," and my neck popped, really loud, like helmet grab and knee pad slide out right then. Turned out my neck finally re-aligned after 10 years of whiplash from a DRUNK DRIVER rear ending me.
Sometimes I forget myself and really blast a good curb ramp, my woman goes to, "be careful, what if you got hurt!"
But that is one bad urban assault vehicle.
I am showing my "to cool," 9 year old the "stickers," in hopes I can put something on his bike, they look so sterile with none!
 
Thank you. None of my bikes can be left untouched by a stencil, a sticker, some graffiti.
 
will do "cough" build off 9 "cough". It's fairly simple but it does take some patience and a little bit of skill.

materials
latex gloves, disposable face mask, scissors, exacto knife or box cutter,contact cement (dap weldwood) worked best for me, any cheap comics you have, montana hardcore matte or gloss clear spray paint, well ventilated area because the epoxy is highly toxic

cut out the object in various sizes from 3" all the way down to finger print size. the little ones you'll use for filler and gives you really good depth.

fork prep"
i sanded the fork down with a 120 grit sandpaper and washed it real good and made sure it was nice and dry.

always wear the latex gloves because the oils from your hands will ruin the epoxy.

start at the bottom using your bigger pieces. brush a good amount of cement on the back of the strip and a thin coat on were you want the piece to lay on.

dab with your hands to smooth out and remove the trapped air. be careful not to touch the cement then touch the face of the comic strip as it will fade the color, tear, and what not.

heres the tricky part and thats why i suggest only doing this on a straight blade fork. when you get close to the race the fork bends and bigger object wont lay flat. do this with every little piece following the previous method. when you see it begin to fold, or bend, or cave in, take you razor blade and start from the center of the fold making a smooth slow incision from the middle all the way to the end of the piece. then with your fingers fold the two halves over until the fold is gone. now you might have to make several incision like this to get it perfectly smooth. if you do it right nobody will notice the line and the picture will line up.

let it dry for at least 24hrs then you can begin to spray your clear coat. i used a lot of coats to get a good seal. especially on the bottom of the fork near the drop out. after i let the clear dry over night i put it in my over and baked it at 200* fahrenheit for 10min. then let it cool overnight again.

depending on how many coats you use i used the whole can and a little i had left over from a previous it will hold up to road debris. mine ar torn up a on the bottom of the blades due to grinding a lot.
 
LukeTheJoker said:
HxCforever said:
will do "cough" build off 9 "cough".
:lol: Nice one!
Do you have any problems with the printing on the back of the pictures coming through?

Luke.

Not really unless its the older pre 2000 stuff were its recycled paper and not laminated. Those tend to turn out darker. A darker base color would take away any transparency. the older comics tend to adhere better but like I said are darker and the art isn't as crisp. Thats just a personal preference. The newer stuff will stick fine but takes extra effort to smooth out.
 

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