B/MSR #305 / Finished at last (minuet that is)

Jun 5, 2012
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Oh no, another victim of the photobucket shakedown.

kingfish254, Monday at 8:58 AM

That pretty much sums up what happened to my last thread

Since most of the original thread was a backup build I have decided it would be easier to start a fresh thread dedicated to my main build
and slowly repair the other one
I hope that will be ok considering the circumstances

So for those of you following the original post you remember this fame

Prewar "roadster" frame
 
Jun 5, 2012
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So for now a brief review

B/MSR short for Battle Mountain Street Roadster

The plan is to make a bike that mixes
this


with this




So While working on finding a new photo hosting site the wheels arrived for this build

650c deep "v" (42mm) rim
32 hole
black spokes/axle/coaster brake
 
Jun 5, 2012
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Busy with progress on B/MSR so a bit pic heavy

Finally got to install the tires

schwinn s7 26 x 2 x1 3/4 (rear) 54-571
these are for i believe tandems so they are actually a bit wider than standard s7 tire I am using on the front

they are closer to a 1.95 or 2.0 in width

Here they are mounted up to the modern 650c deep v rims
turns out the 650c size is the same as the old schwinn s7

you might be able to see the larger tandem s7 tire on the right

and on the left in the lower pic


They don't make s7 tires with extended presta tubes just standard size
so I luckily I found these guys at my LBS
 
Jun 5, 2012
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Also got to work on the hbars



Ape hangers (unknown make)
goseneck extender/adapter
tandem dogbone


Here I am making an insert tube to keep the adapter connected to the goseneck but still be able to slide the dogbone and hbars over it when flipping



hand the bars "in action"

cruise


Race


BTW these are the only apehangers that I have come across that work in both orrientations
 
Jun 5, 2012
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That sounds like a pretty sick mix of ideas!
Build on!

kingfish254, Today at 12:18 PM
Thank you KF
If all goes right this will be a what if machine

As in what if Battle mountain (basically Bonneville for Human powered vehicles mostly streamlined recumbent)
Had classes like Bonneville
And one of those classes was similar to the street roadster class

Must be a roadster built prior to wwII
must run rear fenders
must run head lights

Basically a true street/strip machine
ride to to the race and after some minor alterations ready to race
 

kingfish254

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Thank you KF
If all goes right this will be a what if machine

As in what if Battle mountain (basically Bonneville for Human powered vehicles mostly streamlined recumbent)
Had classes like Bonneville
And one of those classes was similar to the street roadster class

Must be a roadster built prior to wwII
must run rear fenders
must run head lights

Basically a true street/strip machine
ride to to the race and after some minor alterations ready to race
Ahhhhh, brilliant! You should have a lot of room to have fun with that concept!
 
Jun 5, 2012
473
1,204
Well the 60t chainring has arrived


I went right away and installed it
so i could test out how it fits and how it rides

I had to use other hbars and gooseneck since I need to find an extra long bolt for the adapter on the other setup


You can see in the pic there is a 52t chainring mounted in front of the 60t
I will later go into more about that later but for now here is a pic that shows a hint at its application
 
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Jun 5, 2012
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got the last main mechanical part done this weekend

the QUICK CHANGE rear coaster sprockets

here is the new 24t rear sprocket


I had to take a 20t rear and grind out 5 of the teeth spaces


Then using charring bolts I attached 24t the mountain bike chainring to the 20t rear sprocket

A while back I had seen a similar method used for a motorized bike conversion
and this will be used for cruising speed only
so I do dont see it not being strong enough

As you can see there is space even without a spacer


one other part for the rear i had been working on was a quick release for the coaster brake arm attachment

so far these are the 2 methods that seem to work the best
 
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Jun 5, 2012
473
1,204
Why do all this work
well now i can go from

Cruising
using a 52t front and 24t rear


To racing
with a 60t front and 16T rear


Without needing to alter the size of the chain
all i have to do is remove the snap ring that holds the sprocket in place

one minor issue is i need to get a 1/2 link even though it is close to lining up when swapping gears there is still some offset that is too much with an entire link added or removed


2 side notes are

A.
I found fixie style forks at a swap meet that i liked the look of better
they look more aerodynamic for racing
and have a chopper / monark spring fork look (without the spring attachment) for cruising

B.
I also have a 28 tooth mountain bike sprocket to put on the rear as well
If i ever want to run these bad boys (that i found on ebay for under 100$)

70t
while running an 18t rear


68t
while running a 16t rear


And to keep with the quick change idea then I will run the 60t chainring
with either the 28t rear for when running the 70t
or
the 24t rear when running the 68t

* as you can see the total tooth count front and rear must be equal for both cruising and racing for the quick change idea to work

60/16 = 76 and 52/24 = 76

70/18 = 88 and 60/28 = 88
68/16 = 84 and 60/24 = 84
 
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Mar 26, 2012
7,279
14,110
Maplewood, MN
Your 'tooth count' chart reminds me of an old musician's joke; and especially close to home for me as I'm a 'player'.

Q: "What's the difference between a violin and a fiddle?"

A: "The number of teeth in the player....."