'65 Stingray Nominal Basic

Discussion in 'CLASS 1 - MUSCLE BIKE 2019 BUILD JOURNALS' started by Jude Ephesus, Oct 2, 2019.

  1. Jude Ephesus

    Jude Ephesus

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    PG; I looked into the powder coating and there are some places that have sprung up in the past year that are closer to me.

    Unfortunately, all the places have a $100 minimum regardless of part size: if they could do it for like $50 or $75, I think I’d bite. -but at $100 and tax.... meh; I’d rather do the $150 and get the real McCoy!!

    I decided to do the black wheels and really want the black forks now, so I’m going with paint for now!
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2019
  2. Jude Ephesus

    Jude Ephesus

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    Thanks SDF! According to PsychoGraphic, I think anything but a gloss will hide the multicolored pearl I put on and can’t see! Lol !!!!’

    I’m going to double down on the duplicolor effex paint and just be satisfied with whatever it looks like when the can is empty!!

    I love matte finishes, but decided to go with a gloss on this as the half eaten coppertone mixed silver base literally glows. I was trying to make it pop as much as possible then found that effex pearl gloss and decided to roll with that.

    I have a 62 Ross women’s bike I’m going to build for my mother in law that has a nice patina and will take your advice on that ride and will be adding a clear matte to it!
     
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  3. Jude Ephesus

    Jude Ephesus

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    Thanks OJ. I was not even looking for a muscle bike let alone stingray when I saw this frame and wicked patina on eBay. I bought it only for the patina.

    Great input on doing another mock up with the black wheels on.... will take you up on that and see what we’ve got!!
     
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  4. Dr. Tankenstein

    Dr. Tankenstein

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    The ‘flattest’ matte clear rattle can I’ve found so far is this stuff by Rustoleum.
    [​IMG]


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  5. Dr. Tankenstein

    Dr. Tankenstein

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    Here it is over Rustoleum Satin Ink Blue
    [​IMG]


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  6. Dr. Tankenstein

    Dr. Tankenstein

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    [​IMG]


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  7. Jude Ephesus

    Jude Ephesus

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    Love it! Awesome color and definitely dead flat....without a chalky look!

    That bike looks amazing! What is it? Can you please put up a full shot of the bike?
     
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  8. OddJob

    OddJob

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    The good Dr. T has prescribed another great Rx for a cool paint finish. I've used the same Dead Flat clear on a number of projects. My wife has used it for outdoor signs and displays as well.

    Where did I get the idea?

    From @Dr. Tankenstein of course!

    crazy doctor.jpg
     
  9. Jude Ephesus

    Jude Ephesus

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    945E453A-DDE3-4522-9F4D-49A672A771B4.jpeg ABAFAF91-85D3-4B00-85CD-574EAACEA0A5.jpeg 422153F6-3D1A-447E-B719-103E1B9CF3F1.jpeg 38C0BE1B-6A01-406B-AF0A-3874D4D93885.jpeg B637D842-ED32-4412-8F81-CEAE076A257C.jpeg 3C47965C-03BA-43DB-B6FD-FF6B53A231CE.jpeg Running out of paint weather in upstate NY! Slinging some paint!

    PsychoGraphic was spot on; I doubled down on my clear effex paint, hit it with another coat and it popped!!! Super cool. Not sure if it’s coming through in the pics, but it DOES pop in direct sunlight.:rockout:

    Hit the wheels too.... just black paint; not flake or pearl.
     
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  10. Jude Ephesus

    Jude Ephesus

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    9CD6A9F2-ADEE-4AAB-A6CD-FD008099190E.jpeg Got all the chrome and other parts ready for a Black out!!!!
     
  11. OddJob

    OddJob

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    I don't know what you did for prep on the chrome parts, but I won't paint anything again until I use adhesion promoter on the parts first. Really liked the results I got spraying my chrome before the smoke metalcast was applied. And there is really no waiting time, you want the promoter tacky when you spray your paint coat.
     
  12. Jude Ephesus

    Jude Ephesus

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    Cool. Where do you get it?

    I just did the usual: scuffed and cleaned with wire wheel, vinegar and foil scrub, dish soap scrub with scotch Brite pad.
     
  13. OddJob

    OddJob

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    Jude, I got mine at my local O'Reilly Auto Parts. I doesn't take much, just a mist over all the contact surface area. Think of it like using a spray adhesive to glue two pieces of paper together.

    It's the can in the middle....

    73026717_762244664215799_3823251398657572864_n.jpg
     
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  14. Psychographic

    Psychographic

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  15. Jude Ephesus

    Jude Ephesus

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    FD9851C8-E1AF-4BF0-9FE6-30382240B754.jpeg 16F18617-5AE0-4A48-BD02-5C0C55CFED07.jpeg 877DD94E-4F55-44E9-A226-459F29FD547A.jpeg So, super weird. I came home from lunch today and the sun was actually out in central New York!!!

    I can check out my frame in full sunlight!!!!

    The pearl finally took. Pics are ok, but the frame shines more in “real life”

    I have about 1/3 of a can of straight, clear gloss I’m debating emptying on this thing.

    Any input from the peanut gallery yay or nay?
     
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  16. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr

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    I'm a few miles north... I gave up on painting a few weeks ago, too cold for me, can't depend on the results. I got snow in my bottom bracket today.
     
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  17. Jude Ephesus

    Jude Ephesus

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    Spray and pray!!!
     
  18. OddJob

    OddJob

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    I think the clear would make it shine even more. Make sure it's compatible with the top coat. Both should be either laquer or enamel.
     
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  19. Psychographic

    Psychographic

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    I personally would leave it alone. You have plenty of gloss now. Without knowing what clear you are using, you risk a few things.

    As already stated, is the clear compatible with what you have sprayed? Uncatalyzed enamel is almost always safe over fresh lacquer. Lacquer can lift fresh enamel. Spay can paint is a crapshoot as too what is really in the can and how hot the thinners/reducers are that it is mixed with.

    Even if it is compatible you still have some obstacles, will it stick without sanding, if you sand it and open up the top coat, will it affect the clear (outgassing)?
     
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  20. Dr. Tankenstein

    Dr. Tankenstein

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    If you’re concerned about finish compatibility, just apply a coat of boiled linseed oil (BLO). It provides a nice sheen while protecting the finish, sealing the paint and slowing the rust growth.
    I recently did a total breakdown/clean/reassemble on my wife’s 24” 1950 Monark custom.
    It had a layer of ‘shop dust’ on it that wouldn’t come off with soap/water or Simple Green. So, I used a Mr. Clean eraser...well, as a micro abrasive, it took the gloss out of the finish.
    The BLO (apply a thin coat with a microfiber cloth) brought back a ‘not too glossy’ vintage sheen to it (FYI, the paint is 7 year old Krylon rattlecan)
    [​IMG]


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