'65 Stingray Nominal Basic

Aug 17, 2019
483
843
48
Hey guys. Super excited here. This is my first RRB build. Thanks for having me aboard!

So, I got this GREAT idea! I’d do a Coppertone Schwinn Stingray Super Deluxe! Springer front end…. Perfect Chrome fenders… White seat. WOW! Bet no one’s ever seen one of those before! NOT!!! lol

So, I’m not a Schwinn guy. I stumbled across this ’65 Super D frame on E-bay with this wicked patina. It was so hideous, it was cool!!! I just had to get it!

My thought was to “go the other way” with this bike. -sort of Anti-Schwinn purist, Anti-Restomod. Just cobbled together parts in the spirit of Schwinn, highlighting the aged yet legendary cantilever frame with rat rod cool.

As I’d love to say this is a bargain build…. Uh….. I’m quickly learning…. Did anyone know these old Schwinn’s are not the friendliest to budget bike builders? lol

So, as it sits, I’ve got about $250 wrapped up in the below parts including freight & gas trying to keep the bike somewhat Schwinn correct. (actually a few parts aren’t pictured & I sold some which recouped some $$$ to keep my costs down)

I actually bought a pink fairlady as a parts bike (add another $40!) for this frame and “accidentally” restored it!!! (just couldn’t toss the old girl!)

I’ll need some advice on redoing the troxel seat. I’m not finding any replacement kit or material online and am not putting a re-pop seat on this bike.

Enjoy this pic’s! Here we go! I’m open to comments, ideas and advice!
 
Mar 26, 2012
7,678
14,932
Maplewood, MN
Welcome Jude! You're going to really dig this group. The MBBO crowd is a fun one, and the muscle bikes cool!

@Chad T is the master 'naner seat guy. Chad, can you give Jude some tips on his seat recover?

If we don't hear from Chad (we will :grin: ) I can give you some tips I've used as well.

RaT oN~!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chad T
Jun 11, 2012
4,482
4,386
48
Visalia, CA
I tried to recover... bucked some of the advice, and the seat came out less than I hoped. I put in more padding than I should have and it shaped it weird. Chad did a great job. Listen to @Chad T !!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chad T
Sep 7, 2014
3,173
6,168
52
Columbus OH
Hey Jude....you can take a sad seat and make it better...:D

Here's the first vid I watched when I did my first seat. Most people use spray on upholstery adhesive instead of hot glue.


Some more banana upholstery vids on there

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=schwinn+stingray+seat+cover

I’ll need some advice on redoing the troxel seat. I’m not finding any replacement kit or material online and am not putting a re-pop seat on this bike.
Should be a Persons seat on a Sting Ray. Will be interesting to seee how the Troxel looks on there. Hopefully it's one with 2 pans you can sandwich the material between. I think most of those do.

Finding suitable material is the hard part. Search "vinyl upholstery fabric" then ad glitter and/or whatever color you're looking for. Probably won't find any with the mylar stripes. If you do let me know..:D

Always love seeing a Sting ray on here. Nice selection of bars. The bottom ones would be correct for a '65. Top ones look like they might be '68-'69 bars which are sweet.
 
Aug 17, 2019
483
843
48
Hey Jude....you can take a sad seat and make it better...:D

Here's the first vid I watched when I did my first seat. Most people use spray on upholstery adhesive instead of hot glue.


Some more banana upholstery vids on there

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=schwinn+stingray+seat+cover



Should be a Persons seat on a Sting Ray. Will be interesting to seee how the Troxel looks on there. Hopefully it's one with 2 pans you can sandwich the material between. I think most of those do.

Finding suitable material is the hard part. Search "vinyl upholstery fabric" then ad glitter and/or whatever color you're looking for. Probably won't find any with the mylar stripes. If you do let me know..:D

Always love seeing a Sting ray on here. Nice selection of bars. The bottom ones would be correct for a '65. Top ones look like they might be '68-'69 bars which are sweet.
Awesome!! Thanks Chad. I was on the road this week and just checked out my seat. The video is great.

My troxel isn’t the 2 pan deal. It has a nicely fit vinyl cover with like a wire sewn into the edges and the pan has these teeth that you can release or hammer and pinch the vinyl between the teeth and the pan.

I might lay low for a month or so on a persons or black Schwinn seat and if I don’t find one, give this one a shot at recovering. Thanks for the help!

PS: spent the first 26 years of my life in Newark, OH and the East side of Columbus. Went to college at Capital U n played football there back in the 90s.

Go Bucks!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chad T
Aug 17, 2019
483
843
48
FD9D95EF-A562-426A-BEB9-2C5EA59866C6.jpeg
9E1AD110-1ED7-43FE-BD0E-70797D56CBC3.jpeg
728A10CC-7DF3-4469-A426-93CBF268403C.jpeg
Ok, I mocked-up the bike! I’m not pumped anymore!!!!! Lol

So.... you know how you’ve seen guys just sort of cobble some old rusty parts together and next thing you know the bike looks cool as all get out?

Well, this is not one of those bikes!!

I got this thing together and about barfed!!!

I remain firm on not altering the finish on the patina frame. I’m going to strip the AMF forks n chain guard and see if that helps.
 
Aug 17, 2019
483
843
48
Hey Jude....you can take a sad seat and make it better...:D

Here's the first vid I watched when I did my first seat. Most people use spray on upholstery adhesive instead of hot glue.


Some more banana upholstery vids on there

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=schwinn+stingray+seat+cover



Should be a Persons seat on a Sting Ray. Will be interesting to seee how the Troxel looks on there. Hopefully it's one with 2 pans you can sandwich the material between. I think most of those do.

Finding suitable material is the hard part. Search "vinyl upholstery fabric" then ad glitter and/or whatever color you're looking for. Probably won't find any with the mylar stripes. If you do let me know..:D

Always love seeing a Sting ray on here. Nice selection of bars. The bottom ones would be correct for a '65. Top ones look like they might be '68-'69 bars which are sweet.
 
Aug 17, 2019
483
843
48
Quick question: are the headset and B.B. cups tough to get out? I do want to clear coat the frame and would like to shine up the B.B. cups and have the headset cups look sharp.
 
Sep 7, 2014
3,173
6,168
52
Columbus OH
You'll need something to stick in there (long socket extension works good) put that on the lip of the cup and tap with a hammer. Should pop right out.

Haven't been to Newark in a while. Always good to hear from another Buckeye. There are a few of us on here.

Dig the truss rods
 
Mar 26, 2012
7,678
14,932
Maplewood, MN
Jude, for the headset I made a cup remover from a piece of electrical conduit. Make 2 cuts 90 degrees from each other (cross) from one end, down about 2 - 3".
IMG_20160129_130145.jpg


Then flay the ends out so they are a wider than the outside diameter of the head tube, mine are about an 1 1/2" for a 1" diameter head tube.

Insert the uncut (factory) end in from the top of the head tube until the flayed end is inside the tube and the tabs have engaged the inside edge of the cup.

IMG_20160129_130321.jpg


Now use a hammer and pound on the factory end and it will pop the cup out. **Don't look down on to the top of the cup while doing this. It can come out with some force!**

IMG_20160129_130349.jpg


Reinsert from the bottom of the head tube, and repeat the last steps above.

BB cups I have found aren't fit quite as tightly and can be tapped out using a blunt end of a tool as Chad mentioned.

I also made a BB and HS cup installer tool. Threaded rod with large fender washers that will brace up against the cups, one end fixed with nuts on both sides of the board, and the other end ratchets down to provide even pressure when installing the cups. This prevents any dents or deformation on the cups while installing.

Get the largest dia threaded rod you can find, making sure the inside lock nut is smaller than the inside diameter of the head tube.

IMG_20160129_145441.jpg
IMG_20160129_145158.jpg
IMG_20160129_145000.jpg
 

Attachments

Aug 17, 2019
483
843
48
You'll need something to stick in there (long socket extension works good) put that on the lip of the cup and tap with a hammer. Should pop right out.

Haven't been to Newark in a while. Always good to hear from another Buckeye. There are a few of us on here.

Dig the truss rods
Thanks for this. I figured it was just tap ‘em out, but I wasn’t sure if Schwinn did anything different.

It was a tough call on the truss fork, but every stingray I think I’ve ever seen has some sort of Springer on it. I wanted something different.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chad T
Aug 17, 2019
483
843
48
Jude, for the headset I made a cup remover from a piece of electrical conduit. Make 2 cuts 90 degrees from each other (cross) from one end, down about 2 - 3".
View attachment 106509

Then flay the ends out so they are a wider than the outside diameter of the head tube, mine are about an 1 1/2" for a 1" diameter head tube.

Insert the uncut (factory) end in from the top of the head tube until the flayed end is inside the tube and the tabs have engaged the inside edge of the cup.

View attachment 106510

Now use a hammer and pound on the factory end and it will pop the cup out. **Don't look down on to the top of the cup while doing this. It can come out with some force!**

View attachment 106511

Reinsert from the bottom of the head tube, and repeat the last steps above.

BB cups I have found aren't fit quite as tightly and can be tapped out using a blunt end of a tool as Chad mentioned.

I also made a BB and HS cup installer tool. Threaded rod with large fender washers that will brace up against the cups, one end fixed with nuts on both sides of the board, and the other end ratchets down to provide even pressure when installing the cups. This prevents any dents or deformation on the cups while installing.

Get the largest dia threaded rod you can find, making sure the inside lock nut is smaller than the inside diameter of the head tube.

View attachment 106505 View attachment 106506 View attachment 106507
These are wicked cool tools!! Thanks!!!

Now I have a project for my project!!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: ParkRNDL and OddJob
Sep 13, 2006
961
2,062
50
southern PA
Jude, for the headset I made a cup remover from a piece of electrical conduit. Make 2 cuts 90 degrees from each other (cross) from one end, down about 2 - 3".
View attachment 106509

Then flay the ends out so they are a wider than the outside diameter of the head tube, mine are about an 1 1/2" for a 1" diameter head tube.

Insert the uncut (factory) end in from the top of the head tube until the flayed end is inside the tube and the tabs have engaged the inside edge of the cup.

View attachment 106510

Now use a hammer and pound on the factory end and it will pop the cup out. **Don't look down on to the top of the cup while doing this. It can come out with some force!**

View attachment 106511

Reinsert from the bottom of the head tube, and repeat the last steps above.

BB cups I have found aren't fit quite as tightly and can be tapped out using a blunt end of a tool as Chad mentioned.

I also made a BB and HS cup installer tool. Threaded rod with large fender washers that will brace up against the cups, one end fixed with nuts on both sides of the board, and the other end ratchets down to provide even pressure when installing the cups. This prevents any dents or deformation on the cups while installing.

Get the largest dia threaded rod you can find, making sure the inside lock nut is smaller than the inside diameter of the head tube.

View attachment 106505
Great tools! Gonna make some of these for myself!

They are actually a take off on the Park brand tool.

I call them Krap Tools. :wink1: Get it? :bigsmile:
Hahahahahaha... I have an Android phone, and I call the voice assistant Iris for the same reason...
 
  • Like
Reactions: OddJob