1962 AMF Roadmaster Sky Rider

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I found a Roadmaster like yours on the CABE, only women's version. This is a 59 (J number).
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https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/need-help-identifying-my-amf-roadmaster.131114/
 
Progress today, cleaned up all bearing surfaces for headset and BB. Also cleaned up handlebars and stem. if some pictures seem dark, they were taken in my basement, slowly moving to my winter workshop.

Some before and after pics.

BB cups
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BB bearings and cones as well as headset cups.

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Headset cups reunited with rest of headset, forgot a before pic, but they were in roughly same shape as BB parts.

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bars and stem. cleaned up pretty good too.

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Overall, all the parts came out better than expected. I think the caked on, gummed up old grease actually preserved the bearings and stuff. Scrapped most off with a flat bladed screwdriver, then cleaned up with WD-40 and steel wool.

I may take all the balls out of the retainers and clean the retainers and balls separately...More so for the BB bearings. Let them soak in degreaser for a day, then take a pipe cleaner or toothbrush and clean out the insides of the retainers.
 
I just picked up this same bike, but 1961 in red. Prolly repainted but I'm gonna redo it anyway. I'll be watching your progress. I posted pics on TheCabe today under middleweight bikes. I'll try to get some on here tomorrow.
Here's a couple before and after on my bench. I'm still not sure what's next, linseed wipe down or repaint and polish.
 

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I just picked up this same bike, but 1961 in red. Prolly repainted but I'm gonna redo it anyway. I'll be watching your progress. I posted pics on TheCabe today under middleweight bikes. I'll try to get some on here tomorrow.
Here's a couple before and after on my bench. I'm still not sure what's next, linseed wipe down or repaint and polish.

That should be a nice rider. I really like the paperboy panniers.
 
Did a little work on the saddle I'm gonna use (hopefully). If this doesn't pan out, I may keep an eye out for a big old hairpin style seat that needs a recover and glue on foam and fabric. As I really like the look of h airpin saddles. It's what I have on my main ride but it's brown leather and I want black...otherwise I'd use it...It's also one of those cheap ones from China and even after nearly 2 years, it's still kinda breaking in...though it is softer from when I originally got it.

Drilled a couple more holes for rivets along the sides and on the top. Probably gonna be using the rivets in the pics, but need more of them. I'll back them with washers as well, so they don't pull through. I cleaned off *most* the red paint., didn't wanna faf around with taking the springs off, so did best I could. This was the spray painted red one from last post. The black mat underneath is the thin rubber I plan on using as a base to build on. I also have a leather hole punch I'll use to nip some holes into the vinyl and rubber.

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I've also got a letter punch set, and hoping I can make a name plate to replace the Brooks one that was on there at one point. It won't say Brooks. It'll probably say something a bit more personalized/promote what I do.
 
Colour was part of the reason I bought it, along with the art deco styled chainguard and star sprocket. It just kinda screamed "Atomic Age" to me.

So, been doing some Ebay surfing for potential parts (searching CWC, AMF and other terms), trying to find cranks and seat post....I stumbled up on this Shelby Airflow chainguard, same one as mine.

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I'm gonna test on the backside of the chainguard and see if there's actually chrome under the paint, if there is, I think it'd look good, with the tank. Might even go two tone like above....if there's chrome...that is. But I'm kinda thinking not.

I'll probably wipe down the frame as well, clean it and probably cover it in some boiled linseed oil, while it's all apart.
I cleaned and rubbed my frame with BLO and I'm thinking it's gonna stay that way.
 
I cleaned and rubbed my frame with BLO and I'm thinking it's gonna stay that way.

I did just that 2 days ago, looks decent.


Recovered the old red saddle as well, foam I had was thick and even cut down...was still thick, decided to go without foam for the time being...not sure if I like it or not, hoping the rubber base layer I used is enough. Not sure I'll use it or not, it was more an experiment than anything, try a new skill. Used a cheap leather/vinyl jacket from a 2nd hand shop as the cover material, though it's super thin...not thick like the original coverings. It's also got wrinkles on the side but after riveting it all, I didn't feel like drilling them out and trying again.

Waiting to rivet the rear of it, gonna add in a stamped brass plate with "Ozzy's Bikes" on it. But yea...first time recovering a saddle. Not sure I'll ever do another matress one. but if I find a cheap enough Mesinger style w/crash rail or something with a pan as a base, I'll give it another go, as it seems those types are a bit easier, with having the top plate and bottom plates...I can just glue everything vs fighting with rivets and springs.

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My next challenge is spacing the rear end from the stock 100 and stretching it to 120 to fit my 3spd Nexus coaster hub. I did it for my last bike, which I took the wheel off of for this bike but I can't remember how the heck I did it. I think I used an axle from an old MTB with nuts on it and slowly spread the dropouts...but can't find it so I'll probably have to hit up the Hardware store tomorrow.
 
Did a little work on the saddle I'm gonna use (hopefully). If this doesn't pan out, I may keep an eye out for a big old hairpin style seat that needs a recover and glue on foam and fabric. As I really like the look of h airpin saddles. It's what I have on my main ride but it's brown leather and I want black...otherwise I'd use it...It's also one of those cheap ones from China and even after nearly 2 years, it's still kinda breaking in...though it is softer from when I originally got it.
Is this one of those repro’s you see on the Bay? I was afraid they would be soft and have weak springs. Hard I think I can deal with and it might be worth a shot if I can’t find a decent old one.
Do you remember where you got it?
 
Is this one of those repro’s you see on the Bay? I was afraid they would be soft and have weak springs. Hard I think I can deal with and it might be worth a shot if I can’t find a decent old one.
Do you remember where you got it?

No, I pulled it off of a 1940s CCM. Top was pretty beat up, vinyl was all cracked and brittle.

My other bike does have one of those cheap leather hairpin saddles from china...it's still pretty hard after over a year and the tensioner on it isn't the best. It's not terrible to ride on but it's not a Brooks.
 
I did just that 2 days ago, looks decent.


Recovered the old red saddle as well, foam I had was thick and even cut down...was still thick, decided to go without foam for the time being...not sure if I like it or not, hoping the rubber base layer I used is enough. Not sure I'll use it or not, it was more an experiment than anything, try a new skill. Used a cheap leather/vinyl jacket from a 2nd hand shop as the cover material, though it's super thin...not thick like the original coverings. It's also got wrinkles on the side but after riveting it all, I didn't feel like drilling them out and trying again.

Waiting to rivet the rear of it, gonna add in a stamped brass plate with "Ozzy's Bikes" on it. But yea...first time recovering a saddle. Not sure I'll ever do another matress one. but if I find a cheap enough Mesinger style w/crash rail or something with a pan as a base, I'll give it another go, as it seems those types are a bit easier, with having the top plate and bottom plates...I can just glue everything vs fighting with rivets and springs.

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My next challenge is spacing the rear end from the stock 100 and stretching it to 120 to fit my 3spd Nexus coaster hub. I did it for my last bike, which I took the wheel off of for this bike but I can't remember how the heck I did it. I think I used an axle from an old MTB with nuts on it and slowly spread the dropouts...but can't find it so I'll probably have to hit up the Hardware store tomorrow.
Yeppers, I tried to recover a seat with a piece of faux leather from a purse I bought at Goodwill. It was an old Troxel seat with a hard pan, without the springs like yours. I went ahead and bought a new/old seat from @Gordon on theCabe. Way easier.....Now I'm waiting for some new 2.125 tires from the same contact. $10.00 each plus shipping! I hope they'll fit with the fenders still installed, otherwise I'll pull them and go full Ratbike. I'll post some pics when I get more.
 
I think a crucial step with leather is to soak it before you use it. That way it shrinks a bit to tighten up on the saddle. But I have yet to attempt it myself, I've only used denim, with varying degrees of success.
 
Progress today. I stretched the rear spacing to fit my wheel. I ended up pulling apart an old MTB hub and using the axle from it to use as a means of slowly spreading the dropouts. Took a few goes to get it to where I needed it....I ended up having to stretch the rear to 150mm to get the 120mm spacing I needed.

Frame and rear fender had been rubbed down with BLO as well.

and yea, working in the basement today...again.

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Gotta finesse the rear fender and struts (one strut is kinda bent)...but it should have the tire tuck nicely under the fender with a very small amount of space between tire and struts/fender. I may also replace the rivets holding the struts on, as they're pretty loose.

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Decided to slap the cranks in as well...jsut to see what they'd look like...need to grease them still.

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Mailman also dropped off my quill 13/16'' seat post today...though Now, I think I'll need an adapter to attach my saddle with..

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This might be tomorrow's job...If I can fit the fender properly, I dunno yet. I gotta rethread one of the rear fender strut mounts near the dropouts and fix the fender strut.....Or I might just put a nut on that side.

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Progress today. I stretched the rear spacing to fit my wheel. I ended up pulling apart an old MTB hub and using the axle from it to use as a means of slowly spreading the dropouts. Took a few goes to get it to where I needed it....I ended up having to stretch the rear to 150mm to get the 120mm spacing I needed.

Frame and rear fender had been rubbed down with BLO as well.

and yea, working in the basement today...again.

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Gotta finesse the rear fender and struts (one strut is kinda bent)...but it should have the tire tuck nicely under the fender with a very small amount of space between tire and struts/fender. I may also replace the rivets holding the struts on, as they're pretty loose.

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Decided to slap the cranks in as well...jsut to see what they'd look like...need to grease them still.

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Mailman also dropped off my quill 13/16'' seat post today...though Now, I think I'll need an adapter to attach my saddle with..

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This might be tomorrow's job...If I can fit the fender properly, I dunno yet. I gotta rethread one of the rear fender strut mounts near the dropouts and fix the fender strut.....Or I might just put a nut on that side.

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That ride is lookin' good! I have the same one, just a '61 instead. I'll have some new 2.125 tires on Monday and hope to make them fit inside the peaked fenders. It's gonna be close, like yours. I was able to find a 5/8 seat clamp in my parts pile to install a seat as well. They are available. Are you gonna apply another coat of BLO too? I did, and it seemed to make a difference. I'll be following this post. Stay warm in the basement......
Ian
 
I'll probably leave it as is, one wipe down of BLO.

So, ran into a bit of an issue, I sorted the rear fender and decided to test fit the repop Monark Fork I have aaaand the steerer is a hair short, by about half an inch. Dunno what to do. Where the crown race fits(or should) is larger diameter than a standard 1" steerer and comes out to about 1.06" on my digital caliper.

Pics below I don't even have a crown race installed.

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So I dunno what to do, the headset I used with this fork on my other bike has too tall of a stack height to work with this build. I'd like to use the original headset as it's perfectly fine.
 
Is this your springer?
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If the tube is too short for your frame, maybe you can use your original forks and just bolt on the front part of the springer. It won't be a real springer but will look like it.

On a couple springers I've used, the cheap Sunlite kind, both had the same problem. I had to file down the crown to get the race to slide on. I used different races from my pile of parts, all the same. So, it's the springers that were oversized very slightly, in my case.
 

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