I learned to "tie and solder" spokes in the 1970s when I learned to build wheels.
You never mention spoke material. The old spokes would have been bare steel, that's why they rusted away. We see that on countless old bicycle wheels from the 1880s to the 1950s. Galvanized aka zinc plating came next for bicycle spokes and it took them 50 years to make galvanizing good enough. Fresh zinc is shiny but those turn dark and dingy looking and can rust if there is even the slightest scratch. Stainless steel spokes from France arrived about 1970. Black spokes got popular about 2000. Modern black spokes are what I call mystery meat spokes. You never know what's under the black coating. Some are simply painted over bare steel, others have a more durable black coating. Most broken spokes today are black due to most being rather weak spokes. The latest bsos have the thinnest ever plating that doesn't hold up well. There are other types of modern spokes: aluminum from Mavic and variations on high tech plastics like Vectran on Kevlar for boutique race wheels. I prefer to use DT brand stainless steel spokes, even on vintage restorations because they are stronger, will last forever and look great.
Tie & solder works best on zinc spokes. The solder doesn't want to stick to stainless and the soldered tie can just slide on those. You get the extra weight without the added strength. Clean all the oils off the spokes before soldering. The type of wire you use matters too. Copper, brass, steel, zinc plated, etc. Most builders would solder for 100% coverage of the wire. 26 or 28 or 30 swg. A finer gauge is easier to wrap and and tuck the ends in. Someone who ties fishing lures could be very good at this. Another technique I learned was to use copper or brass for the looks and then use crazyglue for the hold.
The whole point of tie & solder is to stiffen up the wheels. It was used on track bikes raced on velodromes where loading can be much greater at high speeds in the turns. Plus the materials available then were pretty poor by today's standards.
For your vintage CB with the wood clincher rims is a cool idea. It recreates the original concept and helps strengthen the weaker wood rims. You just can't get the spokes as tight without ripping the wood apart.
I've seen other ride-able antique bike wheels rebuilt with aluminum rims with a faux wood grain paint added. Velocity used to sell rims painted like that but I haven't seen any for sale for 15 years. Home stores have the faux paint kits.
And yeah, the old single tube tires are very expensive. Last I saw for sale were $160 each and that was 30 years ago. I've seen display only bikes with rubber tubing wired on in lieu of actual tires.
FYI, there are air pressure limits on those wood rims that you should not ignore.
YouTube has the fascinating videos on the Ghisallo wood rim factory in Italy. Well worth watching.
My oldest bike is from about 1922 and it has wood rims. They were painted over in silver paint to make them look like metal as metal rims were the hot thing then. The paint was so good I thought they were metal clad over wood until the joint started splitting open.
