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The Renaissance Man said:
That's a good idea. I'm not very impressed with the mounting method that comes with the kit. The only problem is that I'd like to use a coaster brake.
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Truth be told I like coasters better too...
But then ya got that pulley to mount...
But you want your brakes to be bullet proof...
Seems like ya got you a quandary.

Carl.
 
Good to see your in RM... Great idea on the flip tank...:113:
I have coaster on BA, but I would feel much safer with some brakes on the front.
Also just check your pedal arms have clearance from the motor,I had that issue using french crank 3 piece. Just some heads up...(rookie mistakes):grin:
 
Double Nickle said:
Get this thing done and we will start a Club. "Gentlemen of Bicycles & Motors"
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You wouldn't cooperate with selling yours, so I'm left to building my own.
Looking forward to joining the club!:rockout:
 
The Renaissance Man said:
You wouldn't cooperate with selling yours, so I'm left to building my own.
Looking forward to joining the club!:rockout:
Click to expand...

Lets do it, me you and Ceebee would be the founding members. Then we could say "covering the south east in three different states" :rockout:
 
Bikes with motors ? I have 4 custom bikes with motors. Since I put the throttle on I don't peddle anymore. Im now 73 and they are called my mobility scooters. Oh yes, they are electric.
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From the South East
 
The bike came to me with a 1943 Morrow Black Out hub. I'm trying to decide if I should use it or go with something else. I want good brakes and I'm not sure how worn this one is yet until I rebuild it. Should I even bother or get a newer hub? Newer is not always better.

Here's a picture of one that I Googled...
S6001090-1.jpg
 
Morrow black hub would be a nice detail. This is gonna be neat, as everything you do always is.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The Renaissance Man said:
The bike came to me with a 1943 Morrow Black Out hub. I'm trying to decide if I should use it or go with something else. I want good brakes and I'm not sure how worn this one is yet until I rebuild it. Should I even bother or get a newer hub? Newer is not always better.

Here's a picture of one that I Googled...
Click to expand...

I've got a morrow hub parts cabinet stocked with NOS parts, if you find something needs to be replaced let me know and i'll mail you what you need.
 
I squeezed in enough time today to get the filler neck sewn up. I still have to shape a patch for the other hole in the (new) top and settle on the petcock for the bottom before it gets closed up.
100_8555_zps4ac728d2.jpg
 
CeeBee said:
I thought you told me you couldn't weld good. I believe you were sand bagging me on that!
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That tank's way to thin for me to tackle, I wish I could weld like you guys do.:( As usual, I leaned on my cousin to tig it for me. However, I'm getting pretty good at prepping and tacking!:happy:
 
The Renaissance Man said:
I squeezed in enough time today to get the filler neck sewn up. I still have to shape a patch for the other hole in the (new) top and settle on the petcock for the bottom before it gets closed up.
100_8555_zps4ac728d2.jpg
Click to expand...
Your cousin does nice work!

Luke.
 
LukeTheJoker said:
Your cousin does nice work!

Luke.
Click to expand...
Yes, he's done a lot of welding for me on various projects. He's been trying to encourage me to do more welding, but that gas tank is not a good task for beginners! Like I said, I'm envious of all of you good welders... maybe some day.:)
 
Got the rest of the tank finished up today.

First, the hole that was made from removing the original bung got a patch. I'm not sure if I'll grind it smooth and conceal it with body filler or leave it 'as is' for a rough and mean look. Either way I'm going to paint the tank and age it to match the frame. I have time to decide on that one.
100_8560_zps986697e5.jpg


Next, the new bottom got patched where the filler neck was removed. For this I bought a freeze plug at the auto parts store and a coupling from Fastenal for the bung. The bung was welded in first and then the whole piece was fitted and welded to the tank. all of the welds where checked for leaks by filling the tank with water and only one pin hole was found and fixed around the filler neck.
100_8558_zps4e09e238.jpg
 
The clamps that come with the kit are very boring, so I bought a VW exhaust clamp to use instead. The holes are just a little too close together but I should be able to make them work.

Here's the lame clamps from the kit...
100_8548_zps4e656660.jpg


Here's the VW clamp...
J10320-0_4.jpg

I've got to leave for a gig in Chattanooga today so I'll use the down time to soak the clamps in vinegar to strip the gold zinc off of them.


.
 

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