Coaster Brake Challenge

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http://www.atomiccycles.com for all the info...
 
ifitsfreeitsforme said:
wish there was an event like that around here


well, organize one! That's all I did, it was not hard.

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Man I would love to do an event like that. Of course I'd need to get that Giant frame back from Cody...

And of course I'd need to build some wheels but thats all part of the fun. Hmm I could ride my Worksman.

I had a couple of relevant questions:

1) Are those paper plates?

2) Is that a Vanagon with a bicentennial stripe?

Hmm I'm ever so helpful...

--Rob
 
NLCTVWguy said:
Man I would love to do an event like that. Of course I'd need to get that Giant frame back from Cody...

And of course I'd need to build some wheels but thats all part of the fun. Hmm I could ride my Worksman.

I had a couple of relevant questions:

1) Are those paper plates?

2) Is that a Vanagon with a bicentennial stripe?

Hmm I'm ever so helpful...

--Rob

Paper Plates they are.

It's a 1966 dodge a100

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The Coaster Brake Challenge is a single speed mountain bike race series that spans the entire month of July. 4 races in total, the winner is the highest scoring rider.

These races are not easy.

You may get hurt.

You will get tired.

You will have fun.

Anyone who thinks they’re hardcore because they ride a road bike until 4 in the morning has not done the coaster brake challenge. You are a ......

Your little fixie tricks don’t impress me, try racing all out for 10 miles in the dirt, dodging joggers and other cyclists while skidding sideways down a dirt hill.

Read the rules, build a bike (I can help with that), show up ready to have fun. The last race was in BIKE magazine, perhaps we’ll se more of that as this thing grows.

Do you have what it takes? I’m sure you do!

Purpose:
To have fun, to race, to sweat, breathe hard, to ride hard, to challenge ones self.
We will be hosting 4 Sunday races in the month of July. Each race will have a meet point at 5pm and race at 5:30/6:00 pm. Most races will be short 1 to 2 hour affairs. Meet points and descriptions of each race will be posted so you know what to expect.



Rules for bikes:
Gearing:
Single speed only. No internal geared hubs (sturmey-archer, bendix two speed kick backs etc.) no derailleur of any kind (A chain tensioner is fine). No external gearing. No gears. No fixed gear. Each race will usually require a different gear ratio and you can have any gear ratio you wish. We have found that 30-36 in the front and 18-22 in the back is the range best suited for this event, see what works best for you.
Drive system:
The rear hub must be a coaster brake. Single speed coaster brake only. No two-speed kick backs, etc (I know what they look like) Some coaster brakes are better than others, do your homework and get a good one. See below for more info. Cranks of any kind may be used as well as pedals.
Braking system:
Coaster brake only on the rear wheel only. No hand brakes of any kind. No secondary braking system of any kind. No drum brakes, no cables, rods, levers, etc of any kind. You pedal forward to go forward and back to stop. Nothing else.
Frame:
Preference for old double bar cruisers but there are no frame restrictions. We have found that cruiser frames and lower end frames with a horizontal dropouts work the best. Frames with a rigid dropout are difficult to get proper chain tension.
Forks:
Any.
Wheels/tires:
You can have any kind of hoop/tire combo. I suggest a light wheelset that you've laced a coaster brake into.
Handlebars etc.
Everything else is left up to the individual rider.

Rules for riders:
No substitutions.
Bring stuff to fix your bike on the trail with you.
Helmet.
No crybabies.
Entry Fee and what you get:
The Entry Fee is $20.00 for all four races, that's 5 bucks a race. You'll have to pay the 20.00 if you make one or all 4 races.
You get a T-shirt.
You get a Patch.
Perhaps some schwag, we'll see.
Scoring:
Each rider will get a number and you will be scored as thus:
1 point for entering a race
1 additional point for a third place finish
2 additional points for a second place finish
3 additional points for a first place finish
Each first place rider will get a trophy made from old bike parts!
At the end of the series the point leader will be the overall champ. Best to show up to each race to increase your odds.
Sign up at:
Atomic Cycles
17322 Saticoy
Van Nuys, CA 91046
818 609-0113
 
So I'm curious--

What brands of coasters have proven to be bulletproof, and which have turned into useless junk on the trails?

What types of hub failures have you experienced? Is it mainly broken axles?

I know I won't be racing in California but it would be cool to see something like this take off here.

(And I have this whole bin of various brands of coasters, mostly OLD ones... Komet, Bendix, Musselmann, even a Sturmey singlespeed...)

--Rob
 
NLCTVWguy said:
Man I would love to do an event like that. Of course I'd need to get that Giant frame back from Cody...

is that me? Do I have a large frame? I'm so confused... Well there are at least 3 of us in CT who would want an event like this lets get planning
 
NLCTVWguy said:
So I'm curious--

What brands of coasters have proven to be bulletproof, and which have turned into useless junk on the trails?

What types of hub failures have you experienced? Is it mainly broken axles?

I know I won't be racing in California but it would be cool to see something like this take off here.

(And I have this whole bin of various brands of coasters, mostly OLD ones... Komet, Bendix, Musselmann, even a Sturmey singlespeed...)

--Rob

Good brakes: Shimano, Bendix, new departure, perry, Komet. Mostly older stuff seemd to work best.

Bad ones: Hi stop, falcon, y&C found on most cruiser bikes. They only last for so long befor you have to do a full revolution to make them stop.

We've had some broken bars and cranks, but no axel/hub failures yet, of course the event is young and we will see...
 
rev106 said:
NLCTVWguy said:
So I'm curious--

What brands of coasters have proven to be bulletproof, and which have turned into useless junk on the trails?

What types of hub failures have you experienced? Is it mainly broken axles?

I know I won't be racing in California but it would be cool to see something like this take off here.

(And I have this whole bin of various brands of coasters, mostly OLD ones... Komet, Bendix, Musselmann, even a Sturmey singlespeed...)

--Rob

Mostly older stuff seemd to work best.

We've had some broken bars and cranks, but no axel/hub failures yet, of course the event is young and we will see...
In other words your bin is full of the good stuff
 
You know that the new shimano and hi-stop hubs are both made by KT and are basically the same hub?
There's some sort of difference, like the brake shoes are made of different materials, but other than that, it's just tuning.

But let that get me away fro saying that I think this event is wonderful, even though all of those suspension forks are making me cringe. :|
 
mastershake916 said:
You know that the new shimano and hi-stop hubs are both made by KT and are basically the same hub?
There's some sort of difference, like the brake shoes are made of different materials, but other than that, it's just tuning.

But let that get me away fro saying that I think this event is wonderful, even though all of those suspension forks are making me cringe. :|

The Shimano ones have been the best ones I can source new, never had a KT...

I shoehorned that 1 1/8" threadless fork in my Schwinn, how's that for custom. Besides it helps.
 
I had bad luck with some barrel shaped Shimano hubs, not sure when they were made, they ate their drive side, and I've had a Hystop that lasted for years. In my opinion, the best shoe brakes are not even close to older clutch types (bendix, simplex, new departure, etc.). Maintainance and proper bearing adjustment is the key to longevity with any of them.
 
deorman said:
I had bad luck with some barrel shaped Shimano hubs, not sure when they were made, they ate their drive side, and I've had a Hystop that lasted for years. In my opinion, the best shoe brakes are not even close to older clutch types (bendix, simplex, new departure, etc.). Maintainance and proper bearing adjustment is the key to longevity with any of them.

I agree. I've found that the newer ones get killed really easy. Keep in mind that I'm doing a few miles of climbing in the dirt and then decending using the coaster brake to keep me from flying off the trail, usually the coaster brake is toast after a session or two. The 1970 and 1976 Bendix seem to hold up well. I just scavenged a NK hub from Japan out of the pile and laced it to a Pro Class 26" bmx rim for my ride, it's the older clutch type you spok of, it seem like it will hold up good. We'll see!!
 
I have some loaners as well if anyone wants to get involved but does not have a bike. First come first serve:

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Race this Sunday, are you ready?
 
Race #2 Lower Case "D"

Spectators: 3

Meat Pylons: 5

Meet point : July 12th, 5pm @ the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

6401 Platt Avenue
West Hills CA, 91367

Course Description:

This is a out and back again style race on fire roads and double track. Most of the course is undulating mild hills in a gradual decent to the valley bottom. At the bottom, you'll make a right and then cross a stream. Once you cross the stream, head right through the sludge pit until you see a brown park sign, make a right up the hill. Follow the trial until it rejoins with the main trail and make a left back the way you came. There is a fair amount of moderate climbing on this one and the hill on the backside of the course is a doosey for sure. Gear your bike appropriately.



Total course length approximately 6.5 miles.

Race #2 Lower Case "D"

Spectators: 3

Meat Pylons: 5

Meet point : July 12th, 5pm @ the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

6401 Platt Avenue
West Hills CA, 91367

Course Description:

This is a out and back again style race on fire roads and double track. Most of the course is undulating mild hills in a gradual decent to the valley bottom. At the bottom, you'll make a right and then cross a stream. Once you cross the stream, head right through the sludge pit until you see a brown park sign, make a right up the hill. Follow the trial until it rejoins with the main trail and make a left back the way you came. There is a fair amount of moderate climbing on this one and the hill on the backside of the course is a doosey for sure. Gear your bike appropriately.



Total course length approximately 6.5 miles.

[img]http://www.atomiccycles.com/lowercased.jpg
 

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