⬡⬣⬡⬣⬡ HEXtreme ⬡⬣⬡⬣⬡ --- Sexy HEXy Is DONE! - Ride (PIC HEAVY) + Walkaround VIDEO!!

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Thanks for the anatomy lesson on the Hextube Silverking, @kingfish254 ! That is a unique design for sure. Good to see you were able to pull that post out without any damage as well.

It's interesting to see they used a 'hexagon' as the geometric shape for the tubes and lugs. The other thing that crossed my mind just now is, I wonder where / if those casts still exist?
 
This 74 year old Duralium is cleaning up well.


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Wire toothbrush, fine grit sandpaper, 000 steel wool, small razor knife, paper towel...

That the process I’m seeing there on the bench? Any secret sauce?

Def. Looking good!:cool:
 
Also, any finish coat/prep after shining to prevent corrosion/dulling/ oxidization?
 
Wire toothbrush, fine grit sandpaper, 000 steel wool, small razor knife, paper towel...

That the process I’m seeing there on the bench? Any secret sauce?

Def. Looking good!:cool:

I had to search back on my SaltHammer build to remember the stages I did for that Silver King frame. First step is to use Simple Green as a my wetting agent throughout the cleaning process (polishing is a different process). First I used the stainless wire brush from a Dollar Tree pack of brushes. Then wet sand with 500 and 1000 grit paper and Simple Green as the wet agent. Cleaning between rounds, rewetting, sanding more, rinse repeat. Then good rubbing with 0000 steel wool. Occasionally using the tip of the knife blade to clean out any dings dents gouges scrapes. Then move on the the next section of the frame, etc, etc, etc, etc,
 
Actually, before I started cleaning the frame, I connected the rear stays with the new 5/16" countersunk bolts. Both the bolt and the nylock nut were a little long for the drive side. So I went with a regular nut and lock washer, then hacked off the excess, then filed the end of the bolt cleaner later.

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One of the worst looking areas on the frame is the part that goes from the seatpost area to the seatstays. Here is what it looked like to start with.

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Along side of the right seatstay that I had already cleaned.

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Here is the after shot. I only did the right side of the seatpost section before calling it a day and going out to dinner.

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I got all of the BB done along with just the drive side seat and chain stays.


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So here are some contrast pics of the Drive (Cleaned) and NonDrive (Not Cleaned) sides of the bike. Of course I still need to do the hex tubes and the headset casting, but I am pleased with the progress so far. Polishing is another process for later.

CHAINSTAYS

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SEATSTAYS

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You're a better person than me, King. I can't even be bothered to wash them most of the time

It's super tedious. It is like washing each square inch multiple times using three different methods. The sandpaper pieces that I use are only about 1"x2". My fingers were cramping at dinner when I was trying to hold the knife and fork :D : D :D

But it is also a very rewarding process as each inch looks so much nicer than a few minutes before.
 
Also, any finish coat/prep after shining to prevent corrosion/dulling/ oxidization?

I still haven't decided just what level of shine and polish this build will have. You can go as far as perfect mirror chrome with enough polishing with this stuff. I polished SaltHammer up to just about that level and never bothered with any coating or protective layer. It's on it's second owner since I sold it 2 weeks after BO11 and I don't think anyone has coated it at all and it's still pretty shiny from the pics I see posted on FB.
 
I wonder if you could get someone to fill those gouges with molten aluminum, unless they help with the vibe you have in your mind


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I kinda like some of the dings.dents,divots,scratches. I could always get more aggressive with the sanding or even grinding to smooth and feather those out, but I don't plan to go to that level.
 
Actually, before I started cleaning the frame, I connected the rear stays with the new 5/16" countersunk bolts. Both the bolt and the nylock nut were a little long for the drive side. So I went with a regular nut and lock washer, then hacked off the excess, then filed the end of the bolt cleaner later.

View attachment 156667View attachment 156668View attachment 156669
In the situations like that i am using square nuts often, since they are more narrow then the hexagonal ones. Though regular hex nuts are also available in narrow option.

I wonder if you could get someone to fill those gouges with molten aluminum, unless they help with the vibe you have in your mind


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Or possibly some lead? It is easy to melt at lower temperatures and sold as a soldering wire :)
 
Great series of process pics, King.

furyus
 
Or possibly some lead? It is easy to melt at lower temperatures and sold as a soldering wire :)

I thought about that, as well, but traditional body lead doesn't stick to aluminum. Here in the US they do market an 'aluminum' brazing rod that is mostly made from zinc. It, too, is formulated to melt at 700-750 Fahrenheit, so can be applied with a common plumber's torch. It is unclear how invisible such a cosmetic repair might be. Sometimes, it is better to just wear the scars.
 
Sometimes, it is better to just wear the scars.

Yeah, none of the scars are so bad that I would be willing to take a torch or welder to this frame. I'm just gonna get all of the dirty puss out of them :D and clean them up. Like any of our old bikes, the scars tell part of their story.
 
I kinda like some of the dings.dents,divots,scratches. I could always get more aggressive with the sanding or even grinding to smooth and feather those out, but I don't plan to go to that level.
I agree, it's the soul of that frame!
Makes me have second doubts if i should remove al the paint and polish my frame..

Verstuurd vanaf mijn motorola one met Tapatalk
 
Strong Work

Some might say "tedious", but after a long career that had little to no extrinsic satisfaction I say "rewarding".

Your build has a Whole Lotta Love.

Whole Lotta Love applied with tiny 1x2 pieces of sandpaper one inch at a time.

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