Tires How wide is too wide?

[Rusty_S85]

I want to find out before I place my wheel order this week after I get my refund from Niagra.

I currently have a Sunlite Deluxe Springer fork and the frame is one of the Grubee`s Skyhawk GT2A frames with 150mm rear drop out. Ive heard some people claim of using 3" wide tires front and rear but at the same time I've also read of 3" wide rubbing the forks in the front.

I wanted to ask those that know of this frame and fork what width tire can be run with out scrubbing the frame or forks?

Currently I am looking at 26" x 2.125" rim and tires but I am curious if I can squeeze a wider tire than just 2.125".

 

[CrazyDave]

Personally, I would wait until you have all the parts and take em down to your LBS. Tire size varies so much between manufactures and depends on rim size too, how wide it will be. Find a tire that works for what you want, not the other way around....my 2 cents.

 

[Rusty_S85]

I can do that. I have to take the wheels down to my lbs anyways to get the rear wheel disassembled as the wheels I'm buying in the set isn't wide enough in the rear for my 150mm dropout so I will be having them lace in a 61mm hub I will be buying and true the front wheel up. While there I can see what will work on the rims.

All I know is the rims I'm looking at are listed as 26x2.125. Tires I was looking at was the CST 26x2.125 but now I'm wondering if I could squeeze in a bit wider tire. The frame where I bought it from was listed as a 2.25" as the max width with the 150mm drop out. But the rear is as wide if not a bit wider than my Sunlite Deluxe Fork. Thing is I will be using disc brakes and I also want to install a speedometer as well.

One thing for sure I am looking for a vintage kind of looking tire for this retro look I am going with as my personal theme. I don't think I want white tires as I am picky and will be constantly bugged by the discolored tread from the road. So I have been looking at white wall tires but might consider a black wall if the over all appearance can be pulled off and look right on the bike.



https://mbrebel.com/product/front-d...ome-rim-38mm-wide-kt-coaster-brake-wheel-set/

Those are the wheels I'm looking at as they are 12ga just like the hub I am buying to fit my frame, they also are 36 spoke like the hub as well so should be a straight swap.

How ever I didn't realize till just now 38mm is closer to 1 1/2". Hmm might be best to just wait till I get the wheels in.

 

[Bicycle808]

When rims are listed as "2.125," that figure does not refer to the actual lateral width of the rim. Rather, it refers to the minimum suggested tire size. 38mm wide rims are quite wide, maybe not when compared to modern "fat" and "plus" size rims, but wide when compared to more traditional 26"/559 rims.

When swapping the 150mm hub into that wheelset, be aware that even though the spoke count and guage match, it is very unlikely to be a straight swap, as you'll most likely need longer spokes to lace the new hub into that rim.

Easiest way to see what tires will clear a frame, in a case where you don't have parts on-hand to mock it up, is to measure your frame and fork clearances and then allow some "wiggle room" to take manufacturer variance and untrue wheels into consideration. Generally, tires listed as over 2" tend to run on the smaller side once you actually mount and measure them. On a wider rim, a tire will be fatter side-to-side but shorter top-to-bottom, and vice-versa. When measuring clearances on your frame and fork, you'll want to keep both vertical and lateral clearances in mind.

So yeah, measure the fork and both the chain- and seat-stays about 280 to 295mm up from the axle. Take the measurement, take off maybe a half inch for clearance, and take off another 1/8 or whatever to account for manufacturers being imprecise. That should give you a good idea, but keep in mind that, once you're building, you might find a surprise or two.

HTH

 

[Rusty_S85]

When rims are listed as "2.125," that figure does not refer to the actual lateral width of the rim. Rather, it refers to the minimum suggested tire size. 38mm wide rims are quite wide, maybe not when compared to modern "fat" and "plus" size rims, but wide when compared to more traditional 26"/559 rims.

When swapping the 150mm hub into that wheelset, be aware that even though the spoke count and guage match, it is very unlikely to be a straight swap, as you'll most likely need longer spokes to lace the new hub into that rim.

Easiest way to see what tires will clear a frame, in a case where you don't have parts on-hand to mock it up, is to measure your frame and fork clearances and then allow some "wiggle room" to take manufacturer variance and untrue wheels into consideration. Generally, tires listed as over 2" tend to run on the smaller side once you actually mount and measure them. On a wider rim, a tire will be fatter side-to-side but shorter top-to-bottom, and vice-versa. When measuring clearances on your frame and fork, you'll want to keep both vertical and lateral clearances in mind.

So yeah, measure the fork and both the chain- and seat-stays about 280 to 295mm up from the axle. Take the measurement, take off maybe a half inch for clearance, and take off another 1/8 or whatever to account for manufacturers being imprecise. That should give you a good idea, but keep in mind that, once you're building, you might find a surprise or two.

HTH

Thanks for the reply. I will admit I am new to this. Last bike I owned was a Murry mountain bike back in the early 90`s. So I have made some mistakes but its part of learning.

How ever I really have my eyes set on the CST C241 White Wall tire, I know its square but my frame is listed with 150mm drop out being capable of handling a 2 1/4" wide tire. Front I am not sure, I seen people on here on the springer forks getting away with 3" wide tires in some cases.

Aside from that what if I went ahead and purchased a pair of these tires they are only $13 a piece and I really would like to use them. Then just use them as a gauge for how well they fit?

Aside from that I was looking at doing this pair set conversion as I figured it would be cheaper in the long run. I emailed my lbs who said they charge $50 to assemble a wheel. I want to see how much I would be looking at if I just buy the hub and then go to them to buy the rim, spokes and front hub from them and for them to assemble it all. Surely they would have plain rims without that fancy writing all over them. Might be cheaper too as the built wheels are $116, then $64 with shipping for the hub and 44t sprocket for it then another $50 for them to assemble. Might come out cheaper to just get the $64 hub and sprocket then buy the spokes, rims and front hub locally.

On the forks the widest point on the primary fork is almost 4" wide and about where the tire will ride from guessing is 3 3/4". Frame and the actual secondary suspension fork I have to measure later as its still locked up in the garage drying.