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Today I decided to cover rebuilding a Bendix Original Coaster Brake hub. I have had this hub sitting on the bench, on shelves, in the hub parts drawer, etc for over a year now just waiting to be rebuilt. I kept waiting until I found the right project bike that it would go on. That bike still isn't here and I got bored today, so here it is.
We will begin with the factory drawings so we can see what we are getting into. As you can see the Original coaster and the Red Band are very similar and this thread will help you with a rebuild on either. The RB2 hub has many similarities as well, the main difference you will find with the RB2 is they integrated the brake shoe keys into the expanders.
As with all my post in the UCB Hub Project this hub has been torn down, cleaned, and reassembled before I began the pictures so you can see all the parts clearly.
Begin by removing the lock nut on the on the brake arm side.
Remove the brake arm and the dust cover.
Next loosen the lock nut and cone nut on the drive side.
Once they have been loosened you can unscrew and remove the Anchor End Expander.
Remove the axle from the drive side of the hub.
Turn the driver/sprocket assembly counter-clockwise to disengage the driver from the drive clutch and remove it.
The rest of the parts should now slide out of the hub shell.
Here is what you be looking at now.
Once you have cleaned and inspected everything we can begin reassembly. Start by setting the driver/sprocket assembly on the bench and setting the hub on top.
Drop the drive clutch/retarder/expander into the hub and screw it onto the driver.
The two brake shoe keys will slip into their slots and the brake shoes will follow.
Slip the Anchor End Expander in so the brake keys slide into the slots in the Expander.
Pick up the hub assembly by lifting the sprocket. Carefully hold the hub while you slide the axle into the hub and screw it into the Anchor End Expander.
Now you can install the dust cap, brake arm and lock nut. Adjust the hub cones properly before snugging down the lock nuts.
I have a skip tooth version of this hub. I always wondered what years this particular one was made. Did the Red Band model come after this one?
Check out my build gallery.. HERE
I would have to double check, but if remember correctly the original came out in '46, replaced by the red band in '60ish which was replaced by the RB2 in '64.
The catalog pages say the original was made from 46- April of 61 (hub without redstripe / with grease port) then the RB models that still had the Brake keys from May of 61 to May of 63, then the RB2 from then up without the separate brake keys.
That is until Bendix moved production to Mexico in '76. That is when the introduced the Bendix 76. The beginning of the end.
What about the Mexican Bendix 70's ?, Ive seen both Made in USA and MEXICO on the Bendix 70 brake arms, never knew when they actually flopped to the south with those hubs. There not terrible though it seems like you'll find more worn out or pitted hub bearing surfaces on the Mexican stuff than you will the RB2's, and the bearing cages are usually junk in those cases too. I dont know if it's lack of grease and the bearings wear on the cages and the hub, or if the cages just shred apart and help to scar up the hubs. At least thats my experience with them.
I wasn't sure about the 70s, I knew the 76 hubs were Mexican but i haven't had many 70 hubs pass through.
It's usually a good idea to keep a new axel on hand when doing the Bendix hub. If it's an old hub, chances are that the ends of the axel are going to be rough'ed up. And if the cone or the anchor end don't want to thread off the axel easily, the axel could be bent or twisted making it diffucult to remove them. And if the axel is twisted on the anchor end, chances are it's going to break sometime soon! Thanks!!!
The lock-ring should be left handed thread so cw to remove and the sprocket should be standard or ccw to remove. The sprocket can be a bear to get off. Tip: remove the lock ring and then install the wheel on a bike. Build up a little speed then slam on the brakes. The torque should break it loose. Be careful though, once the sprocket is loose you lose your brakes.
But the dent in the garage door will be a reminder for next time!
Good timing on this post, maybe it will motivate me to do mine now, thanx
So many bikes, so little time.......
Thanks and good tip. I flipped a bike upside down, removed the pedals, inserted a fork on the crank leg, had a friend hold the frame down and a few turns applying the brake using the fork as leverage and the sprocket turned loose!
I realize this thread was started a month ago; but I have one thing to say concerning it:
This is absolutely perfect timing that I found this. You just saved me from disaster.....
You don't need reflectors if you've got enough chrome.
No thanks necessary, just doing my part to save the world, err, hubs.
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