Diamond Frame Flying Merkel DONE!

[Fireproof]

The first major setback...grr...I think I'm going to have to sand out the ripples and re-paint.

That is a BUMMER!!!!!!!!!

[Strings_and_steam]

WOW over 2000 views! Thanks to everyone who's been following this!

I sanded my botched rim yesterday, and will be heading out to lay down a coat of primer soon. Cross your fingers!

[skillsthebarber]

it might be because of the temp outside. Ive had the same thing happen to me

[stocksucks]

A similar thing happened to me but it was because I didnt let the paint dry for long enough and applyed the clear coat too soon.
It got exactly the same pitty look.
Keep rollin'

[X-RAY]

did you wipe it down before you shot the clear?

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Prior to wipedown, I run some 0000 steel wool over the paint to give the clear coat some 'tooth' to grab onto.

Just my .02
Good luck!

Dr. T

[axsepul]

did you give it a primer coat? paint does that when you paint over chrome without a primer coat.

[Strings_and_steam]

Thanks for the tips/imput guys!

Skills- Im guessing it might have been a freak temp thing- it was a little windy, so that may have been it. I keep pretty close watch on the temp before painting.

X- I do wipe down between coats, I like to take just a little rubbing alcohol on a rag and go over what I'm about to paint just to make sure there's no dust or moisture/etc. left behind. Ive sandwiched dust before by not doing it!!

Dr.T- I've nver thought of that, I might have to do that for the frame. I'd bet that might really make a difference!

Ax- Yup, 2 coats of primer before the colour coat. I ran into that problem with paintign chrome during last year's buildoff. Chrome is tricky to paint (IMHO) and get a good 'adhesion', so I try to avoid it. But I didn't really have a good alternative here for the wheels, and there's no one around doing powdercoat/I dont think I could afford it.

[X-RAY]

i was wondering if skin oil or something got on it, but if you wiped it down, id have to blame the weather. however, im no painter myself.

[Strings_and_steam]

Well after some frusteration with the front wheel, I finished the painting, and now that it's dry I slapped on the tire and tube. Just for fun I dropped it into my fork set up. What do you think? Startin to look like a Merkel






I also media blasted the spring carriage this weekend, and mounted it to the seat pan. I drilled two new holes in the seat pan to allow the front coil 'runners' to be attached in a more natural place. Since the assembly was origonally from a ladie's seat, it needed a tiny stretch out.





I think I'll just clearcoat everything , painting it seems redundant. What do you think?

Next up will be the rear wheel, and then the frame. I'll then need to paint up the tank and get my decal plates attached. I'll have to getthe rest of the bicycle put back together first before mounting it as cables and the shifter run inside of it. Plus I was messing around with my control options, and I have a trick up my sleeve

I'm also going to start looking at covering the seat pan with a piece of leather. Maybe some padding? Anyone out there with a longspring seat have any ideas on this? I'm thinking that the springs will absorb most of the shock so padding won't be too necessary, but at the same time a little extra cushion for the ol' kiester never hurt...

[SCHWINNRAY69]

That is coming out GREAT

[Dr. Tankenstein]

That fork looks great with the truss rods. Nice lines together. Digging the seat, gonna totally steal the 'long springs on a different saddle" idea someday (springs are on their way ) As far as the seat goes, clear coat it, you can always paint it later if you change your mind, right?

Cheers!
Dr. T

[Skipton]

MAN love the color! seat looks great....Great Job!

[gowjobs]

I'm going to guess that your paint problem stems from the Clear having a "hotter" solvent than the paint under it. Usually, this kind of thing happens when shooting a lacquer over an enamel, or a straight enamel over an acrylic enamel. You can reduce the chances of these types of reactions by using a two-part (expensive-ish) urethane clear that mixes in the can just before use. A catalyzed paint like this doesn't rely solely on the evaporation of a solvent to harden - it does so mostly through a chemical reaction between the two chemicals in different parts of the paint. This means that you don't have the problem of a hotter solvent re-softening the paint underneath.

Sometimes, you can "cheat" by misting on light coats of the top coat until you get full coverage. The solvent is more likely to evaporate before it causes any bad reactions with the paint beneath. Once you feel you have full coverage, and that has been allowed to cure out for a week or two, you can shoot a wet coat to get the glossy finish, or you can continue to mist coats on, polishing/color sanding to get the gloss.

[dogdart]

Prior to wipedown, I run some 0000 steel wool over the paint to give the clear coat some 'tooth' to grab onto.

Just my .02
Good luck!

Dr. T

better to use a clean scuff pad , some steel wools have light oil , to prevent rusting