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Slow start-Goodyear brand narrow stay Columbia prob. mid 50's.
ATTN> Base-coat photo deleted for update below.
Last edited by deorman on Mon May 25, 2009 9:09 pm, edited 3 times in total.
I am unable to find my big 5-spoke sprock, truss bracket, and various other old time goodies, but I did find a free 26x1.75 10 speed. I used that to liberate the Hystop and drive sprocket from ol' droppy,and put my tank tins and oiler wheel back in the closet for now. As soon as I can come up with a camera, I'll set up a basic "werx" bike, then I have 'til August to figure how it should be "rat"ified.
Appreciate the offer, coming up with a creative edge is probably going to a bigger challenge than parts. I see you're starting with similar vintage. You anywhere near the W&OD?
ATTN> specious crank photo dropped for actual build photos
Now some dry text for those who like to read:
The square-sided 7" crank depicted does not feed through the hanger on this bike.The crank from "ol' droppy" slid right in, but was too narrow, not only for centering, but to even put a locknut on WITHOUT an isolation washer. A dirty 3-speed shed find at my mom's house had one just right! Strangely, the narrow one fit the 3-speed, minus an extra spacer it had before. Now I remember why I used to have buckets of these things stashed
The overly long straightish BMX type fork is outta there. I was whining about it when a friend reminded me that one of the green girl's schwinnspeeds to come through here lately was a 26". There behind a stack 27's +700's(rims), looking practically new, 1 slimline solid fork, complete w/chrome headset+crown cover, just the thing for this build. As ever, HVAC metal tape is used to "shim" schwinn race to standard caged bearing frame. The centering on this fork is not 100%, the wheel I've got IS, flipping the wheel achieves nothing. A washer and locknut added to the left axle end, and the wheel planes perfectly! After I move the shaft over to match on the outside only those read it here will ever know. A new seatpost and gold ano chain were obtained from the only rat friendly bike shop in my immediate area, Bike Club-2 miles from my house. $30.00 decent price for this area. Pictures of finished prototype later this week, more specs.
Last edited by deorman on Mon May 25, 2009 4:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Narrow stays. Does that mean you will be using skinny tires? Maybe VERY skinny tires? Looking forward to see your progression.
This bike was designed to take 1.75" tires. Most 2.125" will just fit, but only if your wheel is perfectly true. I will be using 1.5 street smoothies.
There are only 2 mechanical issues to resolve. Instead of the shabby spacer solution to my fork imperfection, I'm going to clamp the left leg(right side of pic) to a bench and coax it over 3/8".
I am resolved to make a bike w/o a rack, so the brake mount hole I made long ago will be filled.
Wheel and drive lines up perfectly, runs smoothly, and is geared well for me around here.
Now it's time for nonfunctional changes, such as a little judicial application of some different paint colors. Maybe lose the chrome fork cap if I happen to find an old timey seat and/or sprocket, maybe not. Maybe different rubber, or blacking out labels, maybe not.
Last edited by deorman on Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Prototype build sheet:
Columbia frame from late '50's or very early '60's last century barn find-free.
Blasting and priming-a couple of beers.
Fork, headset, front brake, lever, handle bar, grips, bell, front wheel, seat, kickstand, salvaged through the years from trash bikes-free.
Rear wheel, sprockets,crank bearings and races, pedals, gooseneck, reflector and bracket, swapped off my beater,-essentially free
Street tires, tubes, swapped off my Mongoose,-essentially free.
Crank arm swapped from free old 3-speed-free
New long 13/16" seatpost,-$15.00
New KMC gold drive chain-$15.00
Fresh roll metal HVAC tape-$3.00
Well, since I have a deeply imbedded aversion to putting stuff on my bikes that doesn't do anything, I'm toying with the idea of using my tank as a tool box. While looking at it and deciding it looks kind of silly w/my current set up, PROING! The rear wheel, straightened and restraightened over many years of hard use, has gone and split a nipple. I know it will be tough because this thing is dimpled and rings like strings above the nut. I've even bottomed threads and ground off spoke ends, but I haven't had to mess with it for some time. Tight wheels tend to maintain their shape. I've got an MTB front someone threw out 'cause it's quick release is rusted solid into the axle, it's only a three cross, so the length should be close. In point of fact, it's just barely long enough, cool deal! After clipping out the old spoke, and slipping in the other,and about 5 minutes of fighting tension and rust, I realize this wheel is done, there's not enough left of the old spokes left to get it right. If I have to lace a wheel anyway, that old step through 3-speed has seen it's day. I kind of wanted to do it anyway, but until now I wasn't sure about having spokes, and I'm pretty lazy when I'm not getting paid.
Last edited by deorman on Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
that sounds like what happend when i folded sensor's wheel when i was tensioning it. as for puting odd things on bikes that is cool i just like to change what the part does. and a tool box is totally needed on a bike
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