Workman frame build possibilty... Now "Workman RS"! All but Fini!

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According to the old school Glenn's Bicycle Repair Manual the proper way to remove bearing cups is to use a long drift punch, it's made to be hammered on. The one I have is like a narrow cold chisel and tapers down to a point about the size of a pea. You place the punch cross ways; on an angle so you are hammering on one side of the cups and the punch point is on the opposite side. Rotate around as it begins to come out and be prepared to pick it up on the other side of your shop. Same procedure for head set cups. I use a piece of rerod at camp for this.
Here lately I've been using a hardwood dowel to first try on removing the cups, more on BB cups. Notice I said "first" try, the dowel won't mare the cups if you don't have a proper removal tool... doesn't always work, but if you plan on re using the cups it can't hurt..
 
Here lately I've been using a hardwood dowel to first try on removing the cups, more on BB cups. Notice I said "first" try, the dowel won't mare the cups if you don't have a proper removal tool... doesn't always work, but if you plan on re using the cups it can't hurt..

I use this thing:
50178-0.jpg

It's for headset cups, but i routinely whack-out American BB cups with it. You just have to angle it, and hit one side, then the other....
 
Here lately I've been using a hardwood dowel to first try on removing the cups, more on BB cups. Notice I said "first" try, the dowel won't mare the cups if you don't have a proper removal tool... doesn't always work, but if you plan on re using the cups it can't hurt..
You know, I have never worried about hurting the cups. Perhaps I am jut lucky. I beat them out with a punch, strip the paint and repaint and reinstall. I really beat on it to try and remove it in one or two punches. I have only had to replace cups on very old bikes that were never disassembled and cleaned. Done this probably at least 50 times over the last 50 years, sometimes only to save good cups when I tossed the frame. You can never have enough spare parts.
 
i use a 12" piece of brass about 1/2 in diameter. hit with a real hammer, never messed up a cup, bearing, etc.

i use it on motorcycle hub bearings, bike bearings, and bearings at work (vintage benz mechanic) brass rod can be bought any metal supply place.
 
You know, I have never worried about hurting the cups. Perhaps I am jut lucky. I beat them out with a punch, strip the paint and repaint and reinstall. I really beat on it to try and remove it in one or two punches. I have only had to replace cups on very old bikes that were never disassembled and cleaned. Done this probably at least 50 times over the last 50 years, sometimes only to save good cups when I tossed the frame. You can never have enough spare parts.


I typically DO worry about the cups, but i've yet to hurt any that weren't already toasted..... Probably needless paranoia,
 
i use a 12" piece of brass about 1/2 in diameter. hit with a real hammer, never messed up a cup, bearing, etc.

i use it on motorcycle hub bearings, bike bearings, and bearings at work (vintage benz mechanic) brass rod can be bought any metal supply place.
A brass drift would work well, we used them all the time back at work...

Luke.
 
Finally it's time for an update on my progress on my bike which is inspired by the Dutchmaster.



Current parts:
  1. Frame - Worksman INB frame (ground off chain guard tabs)
  2. Headset - Worksman standard/OEM
  3. Fork - Worksman balloon fork
  4. Rims - Sun Ringle - Equalizer 31 rims (Black, 36 hole)
  5. Tyres - Schwalbe Fat Frank - 2.35" Creme
  6. Spokes - DT Swiss Competition 2.0/1.8 x 252mm silver spokes
  7. Front Hub - Sturmey-Archer X-FD Front Drum hub 36h, Silver
  8. Rear Hub - Sturmey-Archer Hub Rear Xrd Drum Alloy 36H Sl 70mm (7 speed)
  9. Grips - Brooks Slender Leather Grips: Honey
  10. Handlebar - Wald 803 City 5" Rise Handlebar Chrome
  11. Threaded-to-Threadless adapter
  12. Seatpost - Dimension BMX 7/8" x 16" silver
  13. Seatpost clamp - Eleven81 Alloy Seatpost Clamp 25.4 Black
  14. Saddle clamp - Velo Seat Clamp for Standard Rail Saddles
  15. Saddle - Brooks B17, Honey
  16. Crankset - Sunday Saker 175mm + included American BB
  17. Brake levers - Tektro RT354AG Lever Set
  18. Stem - Origin8 Stem Ahead Fix-8 1-1/8X50X25.4 Silver
  19. Cable Guides - Problem Solvers 25.4 Stainless Clampon
  20. Front sprocket - Profile Racing Imperial 42t Black
  21. Rear sprocket - ACS Crossfire Freewheel 20t Gun Metal
  22. Pedals - VP (just cheapo temporary ones for now)
Still to be done:
  1. Threaded to threadless conversion (Bicycle808's recipe) using - Surly 1x1 threadless fork, Sunlite Headset, and 5/32" Loose Ball Bearings
  2. Sandblast and spray paint - Gloss black
  3. Pedals - Trying to source the Brooklyn Machine Works Veggie burger
Thanks to all of you have have given assistance to allow me to get this far! - special thanks to Bicycle808 and Mike G.
 
Man that's sexy!!

The INB's have a great geometry and ride like an 80's BMX cruiser. One of my favorite frames! :41:
 
So far pretty nice, and impressive component list too!
 

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