Whizzer Powered Sportsman Flyer

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
115
Reaction score
93
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Here is my latest project. A Whizzer powered board track racer. The frame started life as a Worksman INB, but little of that remains. I am currently building 12 of these bikes. The Whizzer powered models, called the "WZ", and the Racer model which is powered by the Morini S6S 9.4 hp two stroke. Should be mid 50 mph bikes.

Specification:
Sportsman Flyer "WZ" BTR frame Assembly Serial number: SFWZ001X
Sportsman Flyer 4" stretch stainless steel gas tank
Sportsman Flyer stainless oil tank/tool box (to hide electronics)
Sportsman Flyer BTR style handlebars
Sportsman Flyer BTR seat assembly that still needs to be leather covered
Reinforced rewelded and machined Monark springer fork
Whizzer NE5 engine by Quenton
WZ headbadge by Terry
Worksman aluminum rims with stainless spokes and front drum
Graphics and website design by J Docherty


Sportsman WZ Flyer by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr


Sportsman WZ Flyer by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr


Sportsman WZ Flyer by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr
 
I have a question for you which you may have already thought of. I have had a Monark springer in which i used a drum brake upfront and when i used it the tendency is the pull the spring apart which is quite awkward when you are braking on a downhill. If you are going 50 I am not sure you want the spring going in that direction under braking. Maybe you have some other fix up your sleeve that I can't see.

Curious about what kind of prices you are asking.

This is one the nicest iterations of the early 1900's reproduction motorcycles/boardtrack racers i have seen. The ergonomics look good from the pics. Are you gonna put crank/pedals in the BB?

Joe
 
That's the reason I won't use a springer on mine.Plus there's no damping, and that is scary at high speed with unbalanced wheels/tires.

If you mount the brake on the stationary legs of the fork, it should stop the fork from diving or extending when braking.

I have seen your build somewhere else. Can't remember but I love it!
 
I have used these forks on so many motor bike builds now and have not experienced any of the issues your mentioning. I also go to great lengths to upgrade these forks for the application. Check this link about the Monark forks and see what I do to basically finish the manufacturing process on them. http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewto ... =1&t=26659 These forks work great. They also work better than the original Schwinn knee action springer which works in and out, changing the wheel base while riding. I know because I have both and ride them all the time. The Monark works in an up and down direction which maintains the same relative wheel base. Schwinn and Monark ran front brakes on these bikes all the time for decades. They knew what they were doing. Just do it like they did. This is old technology with no shock absorbers. It's a springer just like back in the good old days!
 
yeshoney said:
This is one the nicest iterations of the early 1900's reproduction motorcycles/boardtrack racers i have seen. The ergonomics look good from the pics. Are you gonna put crank/pedals in the BB?
The bike will be finished out and will get a pedal crank. It still has all the final finish work needed and that will be done by it's new owner and not me, unfortunately. This is one build I hate to see leave my shop. No worries, though, as I will be building a few more. Not many, but a few and I will keep one for myself!
 
Awesome looking version, I like it. But I do have a question about your belt-tensioner:
After having owned two Whizzers myself, I am surprised to see a tensioner on the backbelt instead of the frontbelt. As far as I remember the pully goes downwards when applying the clutch, but while looking at your bike it seems you put even more tension on the backbelt when you pull the clutch ? How does it slip or idle like this ? Or is it my memory that is slipping away ? :lol:
 
Ace,
Good question. I have this entire bike drawn in CAD so it is easy to verify center distances through the various pulleys and the idler. Only one belt needs to slip, the front belt. The rear pulley to clutch distance never grows as the pulley travels through it arc of travel down. In fact it shrinks slightly from clutch to idler and from clutch to rear sheeve. I have also seen vintage Whizzers running idlers on the return side of the secondary belt so it should work fine. I will know soon enough. This bike is a manual clutch version. The next two are centrifugal clutch models with no pulley travel at all.
 
yeshoney said:
I have a question for you which you may have already thought of. I have had a Monark springer in which i used a drum brake upfront and when i used it the tendency is the pull the spring apart which is quite awkward when you are braking on a downhill. If you are going 50 I am not sure you want the spring going in that direction under braking. Maybe you have some other fix up your sleeve that I can't see.

Curious about what kind of prices you are asking.

This is one the nicest iterations of the early 1900's reproduction motorcycles/boardtrack racers i have seen. The ergonomics look good from the pics. Are you gonna put crank/pedals in the BB?

Joe

That is anti-dive you are speaking of. BMW made a mechanical anti-dive front fork for their motorcycle called an "Earls Fork". Normally when you brake the fork compresses and the front end dives changing the geometry of the bike and losing all your suspension travel. With the Earls Fork it was reversed so that the suspension climbed when braking. This is desirable to have and not a negative as you can maneuver properly when stopping to get around road hazards.
 
what material did you use for the seat ? the rear hub on the morini build is sweet did you tap into the hub and directly mount the sprocket ? your bikes are top notch!!!!!
 
dash said:
what material did you use for the seat ? the rear hub on the morini build is sweet did you tap into the hub and directly mount the sprocket ? your bikes are top notch!!!!!

Seat is steel and seat brackets are laser cut stainless. Actually all the little brackets and even the gas and oil tank are stainless. Kind of becoming my signature on my builds. Hubs come all set up for both sprockets and even had the correct offset so I could run the Morini engine on the bicycle frame centerline. This was a key component in getting this application to work correctly without having to offset the engine.
 
Man Pat Cant stop going back to look at these.. I really like how the chamber fills the drop loop on the morini version.
Hmmmmm.... Maybe after the Panther

Cheers
 
Depends on how you do it. If you are building or seriously modifying a frame you can chose where the engine is placed, get a better look and better chain alignment.
 
How do people afford to go travelling for months, a year or more soon after finishing uni? How much money do you need to go travelling / backpacking round Asia / South America / the rest of the world for a few months? And how the heck do so may poor, newly qualified 21yr olds with massive student debts afford to do it??
__________________________
keyword research ~ keyword tool ~ keyword tracking ~ affiliate elite
 

Latest posts

Back
Top