Yeah im going to make a jackshaft. Just having trouble buying a 5/8 keyway shaft in Australia, may need to have one fabbed up. The front pulley is 100mm or 4". But with the jackshaft i can get my gearing right. I like the look of big pulleys on the primary.
Villiers beach cruiser
- Thread starter harry76
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What size copper fuel lines do you guys run?
I had this petcock, small length of tubing and fittings and im wondering if the tubing is big enough. It looks to be about 4-5mm outside diameter (1/8 maybe???). The tubing is clogged. I will get a new piece if this is alright diameter. But the old bit was long enough for mockup. I think i will just run it like this... what do you guys think?
I wanted to run this fuel filter, but there isnt anywhere for it while i run this exhaust
I had this petcock, small length of tubing and fittings and im wondering if the tubing is big enough. It looks to be about 4-5mm outside diameter (1/8 maybe???). The tubing is clogged. I will get a new piece if this is alright diameter. But the old bit was long enough for mockup. I think i will just run it like this... what do you guys think?
I wanted to run this fuel filter, but there isnt anywhere for it while i run this exhaust
Well i went and bought the goodies to make my jackshaft. I bought 2 pillow bearings (not like the ones i wanted and seen used on here, but ill make em work), keyway shaft stock, 2 bearings to press into a idler pulley i need to find or have made (it will be the same size as the plstic chain guide in pic, just wider) and 2 x 5/8 pulleys.
I planned on using a 5" and 2 3/4 pulleys on the jackshaft to give me my 8:1 reduction (if this isnt the right reduction ratio please let me know guys). And i wanted the rear to match the 4" front pulley so i could drill it the same, but unfortunately when these pulleys go from 4" to 5" the design changes, i ummed and arred and just figured id learn to live with it..... well i hate it so when i get a chance i will swap the pulleys with the shop for a 4" and 2" pulleys. That way the 2 primary pulleys will be identical and drilled the same. Why didnt i think of that when i was there ....... oh well!!!!!
OH and i nearly died when i got the bill...... $113......... Those pillow bearings are really dear.......Oh well gotta be done i guess
I planned on using a 5" and 2 3/4 pulleys on the jackshaft to give me my 8:1 reduction (if this isnt the right reduction ratio please let me know guys). And i wanted the rear to match the 4" front pulley so i could drill it the same, but unfortunately when these pulleys go from 4" to 5" the design changes, i ummed and arred and just figured id learn to live with it..... well i hate it so when i get a chance i will swap the pulleys with the shop for a 4" and 2" pulleys. That way the 2 primary pulleys will be identical and drilled the same. Why didnt i think of that when i was there ....... oh well!!!!!
OH and i nearly died when i got the bill...... $113......... Those pillow bearings are really dear.......Oh well gotta be done i guess
Yeah, I replaced a failed 5200z bearing in my rear hub and on the web they were just $18. I found one local and an industrial bearing supply house and it was $52! I got it because I needed it and it is a good bearing, but I think I'm going to keep spares on hand from other sources.
im hearing you Cobra about the price of some bearings, those 2 bearings are nearly the dearest component on my bike so far.
When you said you got a $52 bearing at a bearing shop, and were $18 online, was it the same bearing just cheaper. Or were you saying you needed to go to the bearing shop because they were superior to the ones online?
When you said you got a $52 bearing at a bearing shop, and were $18 online, was it the same bearing just cheaper. Or were you saying you needed to go to the bearing shop because they were superior to the ones online?
Maybe i could double up the rope? LOL
SCORE!!!! I found an old fire extinguisher they threw out at work, i see a furl tank in its future
I also made my Jackshaft at work last night. It will be welded to my seattube, if it needs extra support ill brace it across the engine mounts. I just need to wait til i go to my friends to use his welder, and i need to taper it a little more to allow for the rear wheel to be removed..... otherwise i might cut off my dropouts and spin them around and weld them back on to make horizontal dropouts.
SCORE!!!! I found an old fire extinguisher they threw out at work, i see a furl tank in its future
I also made my Jackshaft at work last night. It will be welded to my seattube, if it needs extra support ill brace it across the engine mounts. I just need to wait til i go to my friends to use his welder, and i need to taper it a little more to allow for the rear wheel to be removed..... otherwise i might cut off my dropouts and spin them around and weld them back on to make horizontal dropouts.
Drilled some mounting holes, got some bolts for the jackshaft. Just need to taper the middle piece to fit the seatpost. In one of the photos the bearing isnt straight, but when i install my shaft and tighten it, it will be dead straight..... just need to weld it up. But i need to get my shaft made, thats next.
I have these Monarch forks that i have a question about. Being from Australia we dont see these forks. So im wondering if theres a pice missing on the bottom of the legs. The pivot point bracket has play in it. Is that play ok or should i make a plastic washer to take the play out?
harry76 said:
It was the same bearing size, but it was a finely made American steel bearing that will probably last longer than me. Anytime you pay top notch prices for a bearing you are getting what you are paying for, the best steel. The cheaper bearings are just Asian copies that are Just OK and Good Enough. They will work but watch the application. Wheel bearings actually move kind of slow. Your wheel might be moving 30-60 mph but the hub is spinning just a fraction of that. Much slower than a high speed engine bearing or Jack Shaft bearing would. I believe the fastest bearing speed applications should have the finest bearings you can get for longevity. Wheel bearings you can probably get away with the grade B stuff as long as it stays clean. I got the $52 variety of wheel bearing because I didn't want to be down a week waiting for a replacement to be shipped to me. I have spares on their way now so I won't be in this position again.
Looks like my jackshaft will work. I just need to get a shaft made and make the smaller rear jackshaft pulley thinner.
I thought id try and modify the mower handle into my shifter, dont know if ill keep it, if i do ill taper it down a little to look better. Or make a new one with tubing.......
I also have that mower handle i could cut down for a knob but i think it would still be a little large.
I thought id try and modify the mower handle into my shifter, dont know if ill keep it, if i do ill taper it down a little to look better. Or make a new one with tubing.......
I also have that mower handle i could cut down for a knob but i think it would still be a little large.
Thanks Nick...
I wnet and bought a small pulley, then went to the machinist. Hes going to machine down this pulley to the same size as the black plastic idler pulley in picture. I am also getting him to machine a little off (Make thinner) the smaller pulley on the jackshaft. Hes also making me a 5/8 shaft. It should be ready by the end of the week. So hopefully, providing i dont have any dramas, should have this going by next week
I also went to buy some new copper fuel line. The smallest i could get was 6mm (1/4")
But now im thinking id rather try and clean the older line i had. Its well worn and looks alot better being a little thinner. I just hope it is big enough. The new copper is 1/4" and im guessing the old line is 1/8". Is the 1/8 big enough? It was off a stationary engine (not this one but) so it must be alright, i hope
I wnet and bought a small pulley, then went to the machinist. Hes going to machine down this pulley to the same size as the black plastic idler pulley in picture. I am also getting him to machine a little off (Make thinner) the smaller pulley on the jackshaft. Hes also making me a 5/8 shaft. It should be ready by the end of the week. So hopefully, providing i dont have any dramas, should have this going by next week
I also went to buy some new copper fuel line. The smallest i could get was 6mm (1/4")
But now im thinking id rather try and clean the older line i had. Its well worn and looks alot better being a little thinner. I just hope it is big enough. The new copper is 1/4" and im guessing the old line is 1/8". Is the 1/8 big enough? It was off a stationary engine (not this one but) so it must be alright, i hope
I thinned out the shift handle a little, i think it looks better.
Hopefully i left enough meat on the scalloped part of the shifter. Its still very stiff. If it bends i have another handle and will make another leaving a little more on. I may still take a little more off the top part to make it a little skinnier.
Hopefully i left enough meat on the scalloped part of the shifter. Its still very stiff. If it bends i have another handle and will make another leaving a little more on. I may still take a little more off the top part to make it a little skinnier.
It's coming together. When do you think you will be rolling?
See if the belts you need are available in Kevlar. They will stretch a lot less and last longer.
