UCB Hub Project- Bendix Original Rebuild

Discussion in 'HOW TO' started by udallcustombikes, Mar 10, 2012.

  1. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2009
    Messages:
    4,551
    Location:
    Derby, KS
    Today I decided to cover rebuilding a Bendix Original Coaster Brake hub. I have had this hub sitting on the bench, on shelves, in the hub parts drawer, etc for over a year now just waiting to be rebuilt. I kept waiting until I found the right project bike that it would go on. That bike still isn't here and I got bored today, so here it is.

    We will begin with the factory drawings so we can see what we are getting into. As you can see the Original coaster and the Red Band are very similar and this thread will help you with a rebuild on either. The RB2 hub has many similarities as well, the main difference you will find with the RB2 is they integrated the brake shoe keys into the expanders.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    As with all my post in the UCB Hub Project this hub has been torn down, cleaned, and reassembled before I began the pictures so you can see all the parts clearly.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Begin by removing the lock nut on the on the brake arm side.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Remove the brake arm and the dust cover.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Next loosen the lock nut and cone nut on the drive side.
    [​IMG]

    Once they have been loosened you can unscrew and remove the Anchor End Expander.
    [​IMG]

    Remove the axle from the drive side of the hub.
    [​IMG]

    Turn the driver/sprocket assembly counter-clockwise to disengage the driver from the drive clutch and remove it.
    [​IMG]

    The rest of the parts should now slide out of the hub shell.
    [​IMG]

    Here is what you be looking at now.
    [​IMG]

    Once you have cleaned and inspected everything we can begin reassembly. Start by setting the driver/sprocket assembly on the bench and setting the hub on top.
    [​IMG]

    Drop the drive clutch/retarder/expander into the hub and screw it onto the driver.
    [​IMG]

    The two brake shoe keys will slip into their slots and the brake shoes will follow.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Slip the Anchor End Expander in so the brake keys slide into the slots in the Expander.
    [​IMG]

    Pick up the hub assembly by lifting the sprocket. Carefully hold the hub while you slide the axle into the hub and screw it into the Anchor End Expander.
    [​IMG]

    Now you can install the dust cap, brake arm and lock nut. Adjust the hub cones properly before snugging down the lock nuts.
     
  2. Critter1

    Critter1

    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2009
    Messages:
    1,543
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    I have a skip tooth version of this hub. I always wondered what years this particular one was made. Did the Red Band model come after this one?
     
  3. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2009
    Messages:
    4,551
    Location:
    Derby, KS
    I would have to double check, but if remember correctly the original came out in '46, replaced by the red band in '60ish which was replaced by the RB2 in '64.
     
  4. CCR

    CCR Certified Man-Child Moderator

    Rating - 100%
    13   0   0

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2007
    Messages:
    8,579
    Location:
    W Frankfort, IL
    The catalog pages say the original was made from 46- April of 61 (hub without redstripe / with grease port) then the RB models that still had the Brake keys from May of 61 to May of 63, then the RB2 from then up without the separate brake keys.
     
  5. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2009
    Messages:
    4,551
    Location:
    Derby, KS
    That is until Bendix moved production to Mexico in '76. That is when the introduced the Bendix 76. The beginning of the end. :cry: :cry: :cry:
     
  6. garagegoon

    garagegoon

    0   0   0

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2009
    Messages:
    949
    Location:
    Wichita, Kansas
    Very good instructional... And sure to come in handy in the future.... :D
     
  7. CCR

    CCR Certified Man-Child Moderator

    Rating - 100%
    13   0   0

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2007
    Messages:
    8,579
    Location:
    W Frankfort, IL
    What about the Mexican Bendix 70's ?, Ive seen both Made in USA and MEXICO on the Bendix 70 brake arms, never knew when they actually flopped to the south with those hubs. There not terrible though it seems like you'll find more worn out or pitted hub bearing surfaces on the Mexican stuff than you will the RB2's, and the bearing cages are usually junk in those cases too. I dont know if it's lack of grease and the bearings wear on the cages and the hub, or if the cages just shred apart and help to scar up the hubs. At least thats my experience with them.
     
  8. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2009
    Messages:
    4,551
    Location:
    Derby, KS
    I wasn't sure about the 70s, I knew the 76 hubs were Mexican but i haven't had many 70 hubs pass through.
     
  9. cashman

    cashman Pro Member

    0   0   0

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2007
    Messages:
    649
    Location:
    Northest Alabama
    It's usually a good idea to keep a new axel on hand when doing the Bendix hub. If it's an old hub, chances are that the ends of the axel are going to be rough'ed up. And if the cone or the anchor end don't want to thread off the axel easily, the axel could be bent or twisted making it diffucult to remove them. And if the axel is twisted on the anchor end, chances are it's going to break sometime soon! Thanks!!!
     
  10. axsepul

    axsepul

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2010
    Messages:
    1,619
    Location:
    Puerto Rico
    Which way do I need to turn to loosen the sprocket lock nut and the sprocket?

    Thanks
     
  11. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2009
    Messages:
    4,551
    Location:
    Derby, KS
    The lock-ring should be left handed thread so cw to remove and the sprocket should be standard or ccw to remove. The sprocket can be a bear to get off. Tip: remove the lock ring and then install the wheel on a bike. Build up a little speed then slam on the brakes. The torque should break it loose. Be careful though, once the sprocket is loose you lose your brakes.
     
  12. gcrank1

    gcrank1

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2011
    Messages:
    1,195
    Location:
    North of Madison, Wisconsin, USA
    But the dent in the garage door will be a reminder for next time!
    Good timing on this post, maybe it will motivate me to do mine now, thanx :!:
     
  13. axsepul

    axsepul

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2010
    Messages:
    1,619
    Location:
    Puerto Rico
    Thanks and good tip. I flipped a bike upside down, removed the pedals, inserted a fork on the crank leg, had a friend hold the frame down and a few turns applying the brake using the fork as leverage and the sprocket turned loose!
     
  14. Jimmy the Gent

    Jimmy the Gent

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2011
    Messages:
    395
    Location:
    Baltimore,Maryland

    I realize this thread was started a month ago; but I have one thing to say concerning it:


    Thankyouthankyouthankyouthankyou........



    This is absolutely perfect timing that I found this. You just saved me from disaster.....
     
  15. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2009
    Messages:
    4,551
    Location:
    Derby, KS
    No thanks necessary, just doing my part to save the world, err, hubs.
     
  16. gcrank1

    gcrank1

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2011
    Messages:
    1,195
    Location:
    North of Madison, Wisconsin, USA
    More than that, Man; you're helpin' make the World go 'round...... :wink:
     
  17. axsepul

    axsepul

    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2010
    Messages:
    1,619
    Location:
    Puerto Rico
    Cleaned, buffed, some paint and greased
    I should have taken a picture when I started

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the how to!
     
  18. pick

    pick Pro Member

    Rating - 100%
    9   0   0

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2011
    Messages:
    4,244
    Location:
    Benton, KS
    One hub at a time! 8)
     
  19. PUDDLZ

    PUDDLZ

    0   0   0

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2012
    Messages:
    46
    Location:
    Capistrano Beach Ca.
    Great write up,

    Thanks
     
  20. CRASH

    CRASH

    Rating - 100%
    7   0   0

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2012
    Messages:
    2,638
    Location:
    Visalia, CA
    I got mine apart. Not exactly like the instructions (I don't have a dust cover... then the other side slipped out and bearings when flying that I can't find...) but other than that... at least it's apart! :D

    I'm sure I can replace the bearings. Currently it's all soaking in kerosene. Tomorrow I'll clean it up and inspect the internals. It had a lot of back and forth slop in it before I pulled it apart.

    What should I be inspecting for wear and damage?
     

Share This Page