Trans-MIG-RaT...RidE ViDeo ! Pg 15

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Glen said:
Now that I see it with some paint on, I do think it looks better without the wood.



What makes it OddJobby / OJesque to me is the burnt wood. **Definitely. I like to burn wood.**

Now... on to how I would fill that space if it were mine. To me it looks quite hot rod-like, therefore, I'd add a piece of louvred metal...
Really dig this! And, you won't believe what I bought at the garage sales yesterday. I'll dig it out after dinner.

Clue #1: It's used for baking....and steaming...
View attachment 95029
One on each side... but that's just what I'd do :rolleyes:

If you think wood's good, then use it you should. :nod:

Glen.
Click to expand...
 
One word comes to mind.
index.php


BRAWNY
 
The Renaissance Man said:
One word comes to mind.
index.php


BRAWNY
Click to expand...
Yes, that would define it! As has been mentioned, it's the 'lines' of this build that make it.

Which causes me to pause when I think of adding a chain guard, and a head and tail light that I have been working on. I also have a wacky rear skirt / bag rack idea, but I feel like all those would take it a completely different direction.

I like the pared down version more and more.
 
Cool... but a bit hard to cook your sausages on it in that orientation. You'd have to lay the bike on it's side over a fire and that might blister your paint! :giggle:

I thought a man of your talents might be able to do what a guy on the H.A.M.B did. Home made louvre press...

JimmyB_LouvreJig.JPG


Cut slots in metal and slip the angled metal piece on the jig through the slot...

JimmyB_LouvresInProgress.JPG


Whack the metal with the shaped piece of wood and you have home made louvres...

JimmyB_Louvre.JPG


I'm going to try this myself at some point but since I'm most likely not participating in this build off, I'd like to see someone do it.

You could be that someone :nod:

Glen.
 
Glen said:
Cool... but a bit hard to cook your sausages on it in that orientation. You'd have to lay the bike on it's side over a fire and that might blister your paint! :giggle:

I thought a man of your talents might be able to do what a guy on the H.A.M.B did. Home made louvre press...

View attachment 95045

Cut slots in metal and slip the angled metal piece on the jig through the slot...

View attachment 95046

Whack the metal with the shaped piece of wood and you have home made louvres...

View attachment 95047

I'm going to try this myself at some point but since I'm most likely not participating in this build off, I'd like to see someone do it.

You could be that someone :nod:

Glen.
Click to expand...
That's cool! If I go with a metal insert, I'll definitely try that. @MazdaFlyer should def go for it though!
 
OddJob said:
I'd be curious to hear what cues you to say " Ah, yeah, that's OddJobby / OJesque for sure". :wink1:
Click to expand...

The burnt wood like Glen said...and the flames. Kind of a sixties hot rod meets woodworking vibe. I was thinking some signage like Kingfish mentioned would be cool too. That gap does seem to be calling out for something.

OddJob said:
Here's the spoke length calculator I used for building my wheel. It requires a lot of measuring of the hub and rim, so I'd wait until you have those in hand before you get your spokes.

https://bikeschool.com/index.php/resources/spoke-calculator
Click to expand...

That's the one I use but there is not provision for offset spoke holes in the rim. Maybe it's not a big difference? Seems to me you'd want to subtract the rim hole offset from center from your flange to CL measurement? Been trying to figure this one out for a while. So you didn't do any compensation for the offset holes?
 
Chad T said:
The burnt wood like Glen said...and the flames. Kind of a sixties hot rod meets woodworking vibe. I was thinking some signage like Kingfish mentioned would be cool too. That gap does seem to be calling out for something.



That's the one I use but there is not provision for offset spoke holes in the rim. Maybe it's not a big difference? Seems to me you'd want to subtract the rim hole offset from center from your flange to CL measurement? Been trying to figure this one out for a while. So you didn't do any compensation for the offset holes?
Click to expand...


Effective Rim Diameter (ERD) 538
Hub Flange Diameter 90
Hub Center to Flange Center 27.5
Hub Spoke Hole Diameter 2.5
Number of Spokes in Wheel 36
Cross Pattern 3 cross
(3 cross, 4 cross, etc)
SPOKE LENGTH = 249.9 mm

That's the formula I used for my off set rims. And I cut my spokes right at 250 mm. 251 mm might have been ideal, give me a couple more threads to work with. But my original spokes had already been threaded down to 250, so that was as long as I could go. Need a bare spoke to start with when re-threading.
 
Chad T said:
That's the one I use but there is not provision for offset spoke holes in the rim. Maybe it's not a big difference? Seems to me you'd want to subtract the rim hole offset from center from your flange to CL measurement? Been trying to figure this one out for a while. So you didn't do any compensation for the offset holes?
Click to expand...
Most spoke calculators are for racing style rims. What you suggest there is how I would do it. :thumbsup:

Looking good OJ! :rockout:
 
I know that ‘offline’ I voted for a tank (of course).
Now.....I think, forget the wood tank, go with an ad panel for ‘Back40’ bikes. Panel in the same light blue with vintage style lettering in red oxide or maroon highlighted with ivory. Do your ‘fauxtina’ treatment to ‘age’ it appropriately.
Maybe paint the wheels ivory with oxide or maroon stripe. Black out the handlebars.

My .02


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Dr. Tankenstein said:
I know that ‘offline’ I voted for a tank (of course).
Now.....I think, forget the wood tank, go with an ad panel for ‘Back40’ bikes. Panel in the same light blue with vintage style lettering in red oxide or maroon highlighted with ivory. Do your ‘fauxtina’ treatment to ‘age’ it appropriately.
Maybe paint the wheels ivory with oxide or maroon stripe. Black out the handlebars.

My .02


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I am right there with you Doc! Think I'll leave the bars 'as is' vintage iron, but EVERY OTHER IDEA is spot on!:113:
 
Chad T said:
Found one that has it. Listed as "drilling offset" https://kstoerz.com/freespoke/

Played with it a little and it looks like every 5mm of drilling offset from CL in the rim shortens the spoke length by approx .8 mm.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it's not much. That 27.5 measurement is me factoring in the distance from center. The actual was 25.4, 1". So I did a little figuring in my head to compensate. **prodigy of a math teacher**
 
Sunday, Rusty Sunday.
No, this is not an homage to U2; but YouTube!

With temps in the 70's expected for the end of this week, I get to move on to what is probably my favorite part of a rat rod bike build; the rat-isfying rust-ification of the rat rod! Some bikes come with built in rust. The MIG-RaT came to me relatively clean, so I will be applying various weathering and rust techniques I have used before and a bunch of new ones I have learned from my early morning adventures on YouTube in the past couple of days.

In the meantime, we had a great day at the bike shop yesterday. Even though this guy wasn't very helpful. Built this new cart, not sure what we are going to haul with it, but it holds 250 lbs (113.4 kg) on the top shelf and on the bottom shelf.

Yep, it works.
60220075_412568246193320_13249712115154944_n.jpg


Two people in this photo are working hard, the other is hard-Lee working.
 
OddJob said:
Sunday, Rusty Sunday.
No, this is not an homage to U2; but YouTube!

With temps in the 70's expected for the end of this week, I get to move on to what is probably my favorite part of a rat rod bike build; the rat-isfying rust-ification of the rat rod! Some bikes come with built in rust. The MIG-RaT came to me relatively clean, so I will be applying various weathering and rust techniques I have used before and a bunch of new ones I have learned from my early morning adventures on YouTube in the past couple of days.
Click to expand...
I'm with you Lee! Real patina is always prefered, but when duty calls it is very satisfying (or as you say 'ratisfying') to try and recreate it. Rust on sir.
 
RAD custom Odd !
 

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