Schwinn 2 speed kickback hubs
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I use a black permanent sharpie on my black Raleigh to hide scratches. For the price you pay for those tires, there's no excuse for a mismatched pair. I'd see what kind of deal they make you to make it right.
Sharpie isn't a bad idea...
I went to my LBS again and got the skinny. One of the tires has a reflective stripe, one does not. Apparently the ones without the stripe are no longer made, the one I got must have been old stock. I'm going to see if they can send me one more of each, and I'll put the reflex on my girls Elgin. In the meantime I mounted them both up to the Electra wheels and my buddy helped (I watched, he did) stuff them under the Typhoon. There is no spare room in those fenders now, and I dig it! Rides real nice, and sticks like glue. Need to bob/section the rear fender back to show off some of that rubber now!
I went to my LBS again and got the skinny. One of the tires has a reflective stripe, one does not. Apparently the ones without the stripe are no longer made, the one I got must have been old stock. I'm going to see if they can send me one more of each, and I'll put the reflex on my girls Elgin. In the meantime I mounted them both up to the Electra wheels and my buddy helped (I watched, he did) stuff them under the Typhoon. There is no spare room in those fenders now, and I dig it! Rides real nice, and sticks like glue. Need to bob/section the rear fender back to show off some of that rubber now!
No doubt, those are spendy tires. They should make it right.Wildcat said:
Anyway back to the topic. You know, you can put Blue band guts into Yellow band shell. That can give you the gears you might want with the right spoke hole count. Otherwise, there's not much else to do to change gear ratio besides changing the size of your chain ring.
I feel like I got a pretty good deal on the tires, $68 shipped. But I guess I get what I pay for :roll: I still can't believe they would not send matched tires. These are custom tires, they're obviously not being sold to the average rider who doesn't give a crap what they're riding on.
Yes, back on topic. I've already got a 36 hole yellow band hub, I'll pick up a 52t chainwheel and try them out. I guess if I feel I need more gear then I'll stuff blue band guts in there, it's good to know they interchange!
Yes, back on topic. I've already got a 36 hole yellow band hub, I'll pick up a 52t chainwheel and try them out. I guess if I feel I need more gear then I'll stuff blue band guts in there, it's good to know they interchange!
So back to my tire dilemma... Got a email back from the supplier and they are sending out another tire, free of charge, and I keep the first two 
I asked for a black wall, so hopefully that's what I'll get (if it's in stock). If it is, I'll buy another reflective tire, and throw them on my missus Elgin, as it's in need of rubber anyway. Good news
I really need to get my computer and start posting pics!
I asked for a black wall, so hopefully that's what I'll get (if it's in stock). If it is, I'll buy another reflective tire, and throw them on my missus Elgin, as it's in need of rubber anyway. Good news I really need to get my computer and start posting pics!
I got my 52 tooth chainwheel in so I did a little math... Combined with my new tires (1" taller than original), with each crankshaft revolution I will travel almost exactly 3 feet further than I did with the 46 toother. Sounds good. The 52t chainwheel is 1" larger in diameter, so it will be a tight squeeze behind the chain guard, definitely going to need to make some adjustments there.
The radius of the CW might not match that of the chainguard anyway, in looks or function, but always worth a try I think.
BTW, with a 2 spd kickback hub doesnt it throw you off to kickback, say, going up a hill just when you need the lower gear? Never having used one Im trying to understand the real world use. Maybe, like so many things, it is more a matter of 'timing' and anticipation of the move that gets you though?
BTW, with a 2 spd kickback hub doesnt it throw you off to kickback, say, going up a hill just when you need the lower gear? Never having used one Im trying to understand the real world use. Maybe, like so many things, it is more a matter of 'timing' and anticipation of the move that gets you though?
The original radius of the chaingaurd vs the sprocket isn't that great, I'm pretty confident I can make it more consistent, at least much tighter.
I'm not sure about the kickback yet, I've never used one either! Why do they call it "Automatic"? What is automatic about it?? About to find out...
The plan now is to pull it apart, get the aluminium Electra hoops powdercoated white with black pinstripes similar to what the original S-7's had. I'll put the wheels back together with the original front hub, and the kickback. I'll also throw on the 52t chainwheel and of course a new chain. I want to bob/section the rear fender, then this project will be done! Problem is that I'm having too much fun riding it, not looking forward to any down time!
I'm not sure about the kickback yet, I've never used one either! Why do they call it "Automatic"? What is automatic about it?? About to find out...
The plan now is to pull it apart, get the aluminium Electra hoops powdercoated white with black pinstripes similar to what the original S-7's had. I'll put the wheels back together with the original front hub, and the kickback. I'll also throw on the 52t chainwheel and of course a new chain. I want to bob/section the rear fender, then this project will be done! Problem is that I'm having too much fun riding it, not looking forward to any down time!
For those who haven't ridden a kickback, it shifts back and forth between the 2 speeds by the movement of the sprocket. You just pedal backward, not enough to engage the brakes, and the magic happens. Something in the hub shifts it to the opposite gear. Pedal back again and it goes to the other gear. Once you get the hang of it, it's very convenient. Many people accidently shift when they don't want to as they coast, as normally we let the pedals go backward slightly, but it's easy to get used to the shift.
You must be able to spin a lot faster than me! When my Duece with 26" 2. 125 red bricks had the 44/22 it was easy for me to overspin and not get much groundspeed, but it was good for climbing, etc. That ratio on yours would be even lower geared.
I switched to a 44/17 and it is lots faster, and soon to be 44/16. I wont be as quick off the line but that will truely fly'.
I switched to a 44/17 and it is lots faster, and soon to be 44/16. I wont be as quick off the line but that will truely fly'.
tnt1 said:
What does s/s stand for?
I worked out all the combinations with 46 & 52 sprockets, and red or yellow hubs vs blue. I'm confident that the 52t with the yellow sprocket will give the best of both worlds, aggressive off the line, and a decent top gear. The 52t sprocket combined with blue gears in a yellow 36h case would be ridiculously tall!
I picked up a blue band kickback (and some other goodies) today off of Craigslist, got a great deal. I noticed that it has 20 teeth, not 18 like the red and yellow hubs. So the gearing wouldn't be as tall as I first calculated... That is if I can put the guts from it in my yellow band, and keep the 20t gear.
There's so many gearing possibilities, I may have to build a couple rear wheels.
There's so many gearing possibilities, I may have to build a couple rear wheels.
Does that take the same sprocket as the single band; ie, 3 drive lugs, etc. If so, it is cheap and easy to change, just a snap ring.
I would like to have on hand 16,17,18,20 and 22 for starters, and fill in the 19 and 21 eventually.
I would like to have on hand 16,17,18,20 and 22 for starters, and fill in the 19 and 21 eventually.
I might be talking to myself by this point, but here goes anyway...
I did some more math considering the blue band kick back has a 20 tooth sprocket, and I've decided to put the blue guts in my yellow 36 hole shell like was suggested earlier in this thread. That, combined with the original 46 tooth chain wheel will give me an ever so slightly more agressive low gear than the single gear I have now, and a very good top gear. Overall, taller gearing than just the red (or yellow) band hub with a 52 tooth chain wheel. Now the big questions...
Does anyone know for certain if the yellow/blue parts are interchangeable?
Any tips on doing the rebuild? Any special tools needed? Parts?
I did some more math considering the blue band kick back has a 20 tooth sprocket, and I've decided to put the blue guts in my yellow 36 hole shell like was suggested earlier in this thread. That, combined with the original 46 tooth chain wheel will give me an ever so slightly more agressive low gear than the single gear I have now, and a very good top gear. Overall, taller gearing than just the red (or yellow) band hub with a 52 tooth chain wheel. Now the big questions...
Does anyone know for certain if the yellow/blue parts are interchangeable?
Any tips on doing the rebuild? Any special tools needed? Parts?
just get greezy and try it but let us know lol good luck pull up a diagram of um n do it to it :idea:
