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How do you dispose of the oa mix after you're done with it?
I have a bike I'd like to try this on.
It's made to clean decks so I'm assuming that it won't hurt to empty it on the ground. It has settled to the bottom after a few cold nights now, so I was thinking about letting the clear water run out on the ground and save the 'snow' in the bottom along with a couple of gallons of water in a plastic bucket with a lid for later use. It may not be worth the trouble of saving though.
 
It's made to clean decks so I'm assuming that it won't hurt to empty it on the ground. It has settled to the bottom after a few cold nights now, so I was thinking about letting the clear water run out on the ground and save the 'snow' in the bottom along with a couple of gallons of water in a plastic bucket with a lid for later use. It may not be worth the trouble of saving though.
Best to neutralize it before disposing...and I might save the solution, but, probably wouldn't save the concentrate...if I was starting from scratch, I would want to know that my crystals are 'good'.
 
I big part of my starting this project was due to buying a 24" wheel set from @Jsparks a couple of weeks ago. I've had thoughts in the past of buying a 24" MalWart bike just to rob the tires and wheels from but the chrome set with heavy duty spokes and big/little tires that he had for sale convinced me that it was time!

The modern wheels have larger axels than the original bike had, so the front would not fit the fork. A lot of people get around this by cutting the fork slots to accept the axel. I have always argued that the fork should not be changed! But instead, the axel should be made to fit the fork.

This is an easy job and easily reversed if needed by replacing the axel. Cutting the fork cannot be reversed! Anyway enough preaching, here's the axel modification. Both top and bottom were carefully taken down with a file (four flat spots):
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I have always said, and still do, that they had it figured out a long time ago.
Good example of it here. Nice machine TRM..
I agree! This little 24" is very cool in person, it's like a miniature next to my other tank bikes!
 
The modern wheels have larger axels than the original bike had, so the front would not fit the fork. A lot of people get around this by cutting the fork slots to accept the axel. I have always argued that the fork should not be changed! But instead, the axel should be made to fit the fork.

This is an easy job and easily reversed if needed by replacing the axel. Cutting the fork cannot be reversed! Anyway enough preaching, here's the axel modification. Both top and bottom were carefully taken down with a file (four flat spots):
View attachment 72149

I agree 100%. But there's no need to flatten it all the way out to the ends. 4 spots wide enough for the dropouts to fit in is just fine.
 
I agree 100%. But there's no need to flatten it all the way out to the ends. 4 spots wide enough for the dropouts to fit in is just fine.
True! And another advantage is that the axel won't spin when you tighten it.
 
Kind of like the 1940's to 1970's music as compared to the contrived pop music scene of today. The older bikes just seem so much better thought out than today's junky junk. This bike has me staring at it in a TRM trance...
 
The original fender light was completely roached beyond use. Not having a suitable replacement and also not wanting to leave the embossed fender mount and holes exposed, I improvised with an old horn that I got from @CeeBee a couple of years ago. To the untrained eye it looks perfectly at home there!

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After
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Didn't have a D battery to test it yet, hopefully it'll work. Even if it doesn't, it's staying.
 

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