RRBBO13 Q U O I S E

Discussion in 'BUILD OFF 13 BUILD JOURNALS' started by The Renaissance Man, May 1, 2018.

  1. G-Matt

    G-Matt

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    The bolt on option is cool but they can always be welded which would be best. But It’s always good to have options.


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  2. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    Still playing with the bolt on option even though I will probably stick to welding them on. Got these aluminum hanger brackets and I'm also working on a redesign for some universal dropouts. When I get something cut out I'll try them on the bike.
    quoise extention brackets.jpg
     
  3. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    Well, I've wasted a week fiddling with the idea of making some bolt-on universal drop out extensions. I hope I don't end up needing a week at the end of the build-off.:doh:
    Anyway, to satisfy my rambling mind I pushed through with another prototype just to see how it might work. It's a good start but after trying it on another bike (11:11) I realized that I really need to get back on QUOISE and put this on the shelf for another time. There's still too much thinking through this idea that will take away from what I really need to focus on!

    Parting shots for this distraction...
    100_5277.jpg 100_5284.JPG

    Here's what made me decide to put this on the shelf for now. :shake: I have already thought of solutions but it can wait!
    100_5285.jpg
     
  4. Chad T

    Chad T

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    Focus man focus! If you do the extensions though I think just some coaster brake straps deals for the clamps might be a neater way to attach there.

    So what's the plan on this? You welding a tab on like the original Raceliner? Threaded rod on that is cool.
     
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  5. kingfish254

    kingfish254 CHECK OUT MY SALE THREAD FOR COOL STUFF! Pro Member

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    Cool distraction, but I am glad you are shelving the business side of it and getting back to the bitness side of BO13. I look forward to the process of both, but glad you are refocusing.
     
  6. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    It will be fairly close to this initial design but will be just a little longer at the front. I'll cut out the original drop outs and the steel piece will be welded in place. I'm holding back some other details for them that are not in the mock-up.:happy:
    [​IMG]

    Yeah, got caught up in the moment. I thought that it might be simple enough to develop it and use it on this bike all at the same time.

    Since I'm building this for someone else, I guess it's both business and bitness.:bigboss:
     
  7. Dr. Tankenstein

    Dr. Tankenstein

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    Love these extensions, not to further distract you, but did you consider track style dropouts instead of the front facing? Never mind, maybe something else to consider for the potential production units.....see I distracted you!

    Now, get this one knocked out!



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  8. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    I did consider that (like the Raceliner), but there is a ton of room to remove the wheel forward without a problem. It was mainly the diagonal part of the slot continuing all the way down that I really liked about it along with the round rear shadowing the sprocket.
     
  9. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    I'm back on track!

    Went today and picked up a piece of 11 gauge steel then took it to a sheet metal shop and sheared a couple of pieces for the drop out extensions.
    I printed a pattern on adhesive backed paper and placed it on the steel. Next step is to spot weld the two pieces together and start drilling and cutting.
    100_5294.jpg
    100_5295.jpg
     
  10. kingfish254

    kingfish254 CHECK OUT MY SALE THREAD FOR COOL STUFF! Pro Member

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    I love the smell of smoking drill bits in the morning.
     
  11. Chad T

    Chad T

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    What are we using to cut all that out? Drill bits and a jig saw seems arduous. Water jet? Dremel?
     
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  12. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    Water jet would be nice, but for this I'll just cut them by hand and file everything smooth.

    First I will drill all of the radiuses and then cut everything else with a band saw. If you look closely at the pattern above you can see the center point for each of the holes and radii.

    Here's an old picture from Raceliner showing the same method. By tack welding the two pieces together I only have to cut it once and they will both be identical.
    cutting bracket.png
     
  13. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    The original dropouts will be gone soon so I figured it would be good to document the serial numbers while I can.

    100_5297.JPG

    I did some searching but didn't get any solid results on how to decipher the code. Anyone out there have a clue to what year this is?
     
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  14. Falstaff

    Falstaff

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    Pretty sure it's 1964.
    I don't remember all the details from the Murray codes, but the 502 was a Sears code/order number kind of deal.

    The first two of the serial 46, I believe are the year reversed. I could be wrong, I haven't looked at Murray numbers in a while.
     
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  15. Chad T

    Chad T

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    Looks like '66-'68? Sounds like you need the original tires for these to get the exact year.

    From the CABE Ultimate Sears Spaceliner Reference.

    PAINTED MODELS

    NOTE: Specifications common to all of the painted models, and therefore not repeated below unless otherwise noted for clarification, are: tear drop double reflector on rear fender, no springer fork, no front truss bars, no horn, no tail light or rack reflectors, no seat crash bar, no chain ring cap. Details that vary by model number are shown below.

    Men's / Boy's
    46303
    (1964-68, 26", Straight Tank, Men's, 1-speed, 1 round rear fender reflector in 64-65 was changed to a tear-drop reflector plus 2 rack reflectors in 66-68)
    46343 (1964-68, same specs as 46303, 2-speed)
    46323 (1964-68, 24" with same specs as 46303)
    46305 (1966-68, 26", 7-Tank, Men's, 1-speed, tear-drop reflector, 2 rack reflectors)
    46345 (1966-68, same specs as 46305, 2-speed)
    46325 (1966-68, 24" with same specs as 46305)

    Woman's / Girl's
    46313
    (1964-68, 26", Straight Tank, Women's, 1-speed, 1 round rear fender reflector in 64-65 was changed to a tear-drop reflector plus 2 rack reflectors in 66-68)
    46353 (1964-68, 26", same specs as 46313, 2-speed)
    46333 (1964-68, 24" with same specs as 46313)
    46315 (1966-68, 26", 7-Tank, Women's, 1-speed, tear-drop reflector, 2 rack reflectors)
    46355 (1966-68, same specs as 46315, 2-speed)
    46335 (1966-68, 24" with same specs as 46315)
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2018
  16. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    You beat me to it! I was just about to post the same findings.
    So I'll just have to choose from one of those three years.

    I think it shall be a 1967 since my wife is also a '67 model.:D
     
  17. MazdaFlyer

    MazdaFlyer

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    I like the looks of these mechanical connectors. The dropout extensions remind me of drag car torsion bars.
     
  18. G-Matt

    G-Matt

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    Always top notch.


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  19. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    The brackets were just to test them as a bolt on set-up but these will be welded in place. Torsion bars were the original inspiration for the look of the drop-outs, glad you noticed!
    Thank you my friend!
     
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  20. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    It doesn't look like much, but I spent several hours cutting out the extended dropouts today. Very slow go!

    I had intended to get a picture of the plates after the holes were drilled and before I started cutting but I forgot. The only process picture was just before I cut the three welds in the corners that were holding the two plates together.
    100_5299.jpg

    Here are both dropouts. They still need some time with a file and the speed holes need cleaning up, but they are pretty much there. Ready for the next step!
    100_5302.jpg
     

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