Powder Coat vs Paint

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I am (slowly) putting together a 1930's Elgin Motorbike and thinking ahead to how to finish the frame and fork-no fenders.The frame is currently bare metal. I'm not trying to keep it original. What are advantages to powder coating vs paint? I want something in a dark grey\charcoal grey color. Is it possible to have a "metallic" finish with powder coating? I'll be having it done professionally either way, not trying to start an argument, just wondering about advantage\disadvantages\experiences.
What say you all?

Thanks!
Fred
 
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I was a bit disappointed to find brake cleaner melts powder coat. Fortunately I found that out on a crank arm I wasn't happy with anyway. But if I found that out on my frame I would have cried. It was fun powder coating my own parts, but I'm thinking I may try paint next time. Paint feels harder and more durable to me.


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Snap-on tool boxes are powder coated and the finish is much more durable than paint. In fact I use non-chlorinated brake clean on the matte black finish all the time with no problems. They use powder coat because it resists most shop chemicals. Maybe DIY powder coat is different though.


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I have a powder coated frame that I bought from another enthusiast. It was red but didn't match the red on my fork so I painted over the red frame with paint, which melted the powder coat and caused it to bleed through in a black tone. I over came this problem by using many light red paint coats until the bleed through was eliminated. If you are planning on using powder coat and using paint for highlights, say pin striping, then I would forget the powder. It also shows filler spots, unless it's brazing or steel welding. JB Weld and other metal reenforced fillers can look different than their surroundings when powder coated no matter what people say. Results vary with different coaters but I think it is best to avoid any epoxy based filler. Our powder coater charges less than having a frame professionally painted. Solvents will remove of soften the powder coat. I'm thinking penetrating oil would soften it too but I am guessing here. They have powder coat primers, which can be used to fill in scratches and small imperfections. Larger, but still pretty small, imperfections in the frame will show with powder coating. It seems to me that the new filler paint primes fill in better and eliminate imperfections better. I like them both. I don't know anything about how well stripping or blasting old powder coating away works to change color.
 

This is my Monark it's powder coated professionally and I spray painted it flat black on the tank over the powder. I always just lean it against a wall or drop it and it hasn't scratched yet. And yes they do have metallic colors in powder[emoji92]


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I painted this one for Last years buildoff. I sandblasted it, used epoxy primer, base, and clear that I already had. Took me 2 days. I think it came out awesome. If you had to buy the materials it would cost a fortune. I think powder coat would have been a better option. I always thought powder could be top coated with paint or pinstripe. I've also seen people Doing car stuff where they even powder coat, apply vinyl stickers and then clear powder over them.
I'm working in a worksman now that I plan to have powder coated.

IMG_3135.JPG
 
I've got a few bikes that are Powdercoated and have striping done afterward without problems. The person doing the powder makes a difference - I've used several, the first one was exceptional and I've only had one problem with any of the ones he did, and it was due to the material. The second guy is a little more expensive, but so far his stuff has been bulletproof. The new guy is good too, and he's a little closer to home. I'd still be using the first guy had he not sold off his business. He was a great guy to deal with.

Rat Royale
REC Elsewhere
 
Having gone the car urethane 2k route, I would try powder coat next time I want a durable finish as, from the pricing I've seen, it would be cheaper to have someone do that than just to buy the paint and clear.
 
Powder coat is great-- durable, affordable (unless you go to some bourgie place and get ripped off), comes in many colours, and you can definitely paint/pin-stripe over it. Only drawback is, it is thick and can fill in a lot of detail, which is a problem in particular with lugged frames. Should be good for most of the old cruisers that are most popular on RRB, but i wouldn't use it on some older bike with, like, Nervex lugs or something.
 
Way I see it:
Advantage of plastic powder-coat: relatively durable and cheap, easy. Drop off crusty get back shiny in a few days.

For me it lacks the "warmth" of paint, and doesn't wear the same over the long term: old plastic-coat just never looks the same as old paint.
I like a red-oxide primer under (enamel or similar) paint as was done originally. There's plenty of vintage enamel left on the planet as well, and lots of it is perfectly usable.
 
I am (slowly) putting together a 1930's Elgin Motorbike and thinking ahead to how to finish the frame and fork-no fenders.The frame is currently bare metal. I'm not trying to keep it original. What are advantages to powder coating vs paint? I want something in a dark grey\charcoal grey color. Is it possible to have a "metallic" finish with powder coating? I'll be having it done professionally either way, not trying to start an argument, just wondering about advantage\disadvantages\experiences.
What say you all?

Thanks!
Fred
Thanks for all the input guys!

Fred
 
Powder coat is much more durable than any paint that you put on it. However, if you plan on changing the color down the road, you will spend quite a while longer media blasting it than if it was paint. Also, just a note: Bug spray will discolor the finish of powder coat. (learned that one the hard way!)
 
You guys scare me with the stories of powder coating. Granted your paint is only as good as the investment you make to it in prep and paint (coating). After reading your experiences it seems not all coatings are the same (at least for durability). At home, painting is easier and less involved unless your have the proper equipment to coat. The oven size is the secret and time and temp to get the result is the key.




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I prefer paint, i shoot automotive paint from a gun and have a lot of leftovers from auto restoration, so my projects get painted whatever color i have.

I am looking for an oven to start trying powder.

If youre paying for it, powder is probably more cost effective.

Both are very durable (auto paint vs powder). No comparison to rattle can - which can produce beautiful results, just wont get the durability without a hardener.

Another option is industrial enamel, rustoleum/valspar tractor paint. Requires a paint gun. Easy to get, can be thinned with acetone and valspar makes a good hardener. Cure time is long, but it lays down nice and hardens up.
Harbor freight paint gun $15, quart of paint $10, hardener $7, acetone $?
 
In bicycle restoration, we always make use of powder coating and Lumen coating. It makes the bicycle light up at night.
 
Depends.. Powder coating has it's limitations, meaning color. It's getting better, especially the flake. If I want something to snap, then I shoot it. Lil Daddy Roth is my favorite rattle or gun, you can do great work. Their Cherry Pie can't be beat, 11416218_10206604652492131_8284942127953525172_n.jpg 11351454_10206530022146419_4289413254262558610_n.jpg 11406689_10206663449802027_132473774479754160_n (1).jpg 11008552_10206663442521845_622501038213805596_n.jpg 10996770_10206712120138755_7187642518321383324_n.jpg 11008821_10205974105288845_1874871870258376594_n.jpg 11054482_10205974106008863_2957621077608282714_n.jpg 12998400_10208900122917457_4679206448062733357_o.jpg pops is and understatement. Green and purple are Prism Metallics, red is Ed Roth rattle can. As far as paint hardness, a two stage epoxy on my rattle can is .... tough

Bob
 

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