New Departure Model D Rebuild

Discussion in 'HOW TO' started by udallcustombikes, Aug 25, 2010.

  1. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

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    Before I took any pics I tore the hub down and cleaned it up. More photogenic that way! Here is a parts drawing to help you on your way.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Start by removing the lock nut on the brake arm side
    [​IMG]

    Remove the brake arm and dust cover
    [​IMG]

    While holding the disc support sleeve, unscrew the axle from the drive side of the hub.
    [​IMG]

    Once the axle has been removed, turn the sprocket counterclockwise to remove the driver.
    [​IMG]

    Now, support the disc support sleeve and turn that side of the wheel down to slide the remaining components out.
    [​IMG]

    Take all of your parts and separate the individual pieces. Drop 'em all into a container of your solvent of choice. Pop open a frosty beverage and start scrubbing the hub shell if it is still laced to the wheel.

    Once you have everything clean it should look like this
    [​IMG]

    And this is the order it should be arranged in once it is assembled
    [​IMG]

    To start putting it back together, begin by assembling the brake clutch, transfer spring, and clutch sleeve. Grease well and drop into the hub (clutch sleeve first). Next stack your steel and bronze disc. The stack should have a steel disc on top and bottom when done. Oil the stack with some clean motor oil and align the tabs on the bronze discs. I found the easiest way to get the stack into the hub was to split it in half. After you get the stack into the hub, grease your bearing and set it in the race. Grease the disc support sleeve and slowly twist it through the stack of disc. Twisting it will align the steel discs as it drops in. Now stand the wheel up and install the well greased driver and sprocket assembly with the bearing into the opposite side of the hub. Reinstall the axle until it is snug. Put the dust cap, brake arm and lock nut back into place. Pop another frosty beverage, Mount the wheel on the bike and let's go for a ride!
     
  2. deorman

    deorman

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    If you don't want or need to detail clean the whole thing, you don't even have to disassemble the brake arm side. Just remove the sprocket side lock nut and inner race ("cone"), unscrew the bendix screw (what the sprocket is attached to) by turning clockwise, and the rest will slide out the other side.
     
  3. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

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  4. frankinaz

    frankinaz

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    Thanks for the great instructions. I tried doing one of mine today and it was straight forward enough (using your instructions) however I encountered a small problem when putting it back together. The grooves inside the ND hub are deeper on one side. I figured out which way to re-install the parts through trial and error. I recommend to anyone else doing for first time to mark the hub on the sprocket side before disassembly to make things easier.
     
  5. 55ColumbiaBuilt

    55ColumbiaBuilt

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    Many Many thanks for posting this. Thanks to this page I rebuilt my hub without uttering a single cuss word. A rare occasion for me.
     
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  6. deorman

    deorman

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    The drive side is necked down for the drive cone, and the brake arm side has openings for the brake disc tabs. :wink:
     
  7. Pudge

    Pudge

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    I remember when i did mine a few years ago, I dropped all the steel and bronze brake discs into some solvent all in one big blob, thinking it was one big part, not numerous separate parts! They were so packed with old black grease that I honestly didn't know they were all separate washers! I thought it was one piece and since it slid around a little, I was imagining it was some sort of loosely wound spring, like a slinky or something. At the time I had no idea how that brake worked. Imagine my surprise when the solvent cut through the grease and I learned that I actually had almost twenty or so separate washers in the jar! :shock: Man, was I shocked! It was like a can of worms! But that's how I learned how this particular brake works.... or in my case, how it kinda works. I can't get that brake to lock up into a skid no matter how hard I try.
     
  8. deorman

    deorman

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    De-glazing the plates with some wet/dry or a flat honing stone will sometimes do wonders for these hubs.
     
  9. 55ColumbiaBuilt

    55ColumbiaBuilt

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    Really? Mine would not lock brakes BEFORE the rebuild. They work great now. Lucky for me, my "plates" came out seperately and I was quick enough to run a wire "zip-tie" through them until I could do some research and figure out how to re-assemble. Remember when you were a kid and you took a watch apart for the first time? It was kind of like that (well, sort of).
     
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  10. Pudge

    Pudge

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    Ok, I've pondered it a few days and am still wondering. What is wet/dry?
     
  11. deorman

    deorman

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  12. Pudge

    Pudge

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    And all this time I've been thinking that it must be something that comes in a spray can! The last thing I deglazed was a roasting pan and I used Whiskers Tawny Port to do it and ended up with a heck of a gravy in the end! :D Thanks for the link deorman.
     
  13. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

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    As a part of the UCB Hub Project I am creating a cut away hub to display the internal workings. Here is the begining of the Model D.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. 55ColumbiaBuilt

    55ColumbiaBuilt

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    I sure hope someone gives you a RENAK hub to saw in half so I can see what kind of "can-of-worms" I'll be getting myself into!!
     
  15. aka_locojoe

    aka_locojoe

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    For some reason while fixing a rear flat on my old Western Flyer this morning I decided to regrease/oil the hub. I had never taken apart a New Departure before. I panicked when all those parts came out. This tutorial made it easy to put back together. Thanks Cameron.
     
  16. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

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    Not a problem, Randy. These are one of my favorite hubs to rebuild (and ride).
     
  17. Bigwaves

    Bigwaves

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    Hey folks! Great site. I have been lurking and learning for a while. I will post pix of my '61 Schwinn American I have been cobbling together in the proper area when appropriate.

    I followed the instructions and did a rebuild of my ND modD hub. All went well, I think.

    I noticed 3 teeth were missing on the "brake washer shoes" (single tooth on 3 different discs) after cleaning and light wet/dry sanding - upon reassemble, I made sure to spread the missing teeth out and not in same alignment. Just seemed logical, right or wrong! :roll:
    Here is my area of question... :?:
    I can lock up the brake and create a skid when desired. However, sometimes, it can rotate almost 3/4 reverse turn prior to break engaging. Additionally, when starting out, the crank can turn almost a full turn prior to drive engaging.

    Is this a simple cone adjustment, or do I need to reassemble differently. I have pics, but do not know how to post! :oops:
    Thanks in advance
    Steve
     
  18. deorman

    deorman

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    Do you have enough discs? (8 outer tab, 7 inside slot) Also make sure the transfer spring is snug and facing the right way on the brake clutch, it should only be able to spin in one direction. Pics-if you have web posting as part of your internet service, upload to your page, hit the Img button on the RRB post form, and enter the pic address. Otherwise, look here :arrow: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=172
     
  19. Rat Rod

    Rat Rod Owner & Founder Staff Member Moderator Pro Member

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    Good stuff here! :D
     
  20. udallcustombikes

    udallcustombikes Moderator

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    Depending on the specific hub the numbers may vary. Some years they used different thickness' of discs, some used all steel, some used bronze for the tabbed discs. Total width of the disc stack should be about 19mm regardless of the quantity.
     

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