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Fv2

Fv2

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I'm collecting parts to build a klunker/bmx type bike. I'll be using a worksman frame that I got from Chuck, and I have a nice set of araya freeride hoops I plan to use.

My concerns are what hub should I use? I have a couple red bands, a mattatuck, and some Shimano something... I'll have to check on it.
Are any of these good hubs to use for this type of build, or should I get something else?

Also, should I go with a threadless headset or threaded? I'll be riding this one mostly on local BMX trails.

And finally, for this type of build. Is a one piece or three piece BB preferred?
I have an idea for both, but what do you all think is best?

I'm not going to be riding off desert mesas or anything, but I want to build something tough.

My knowledge on off road bikes is limited to the BMX bikes I had as a kid, which is why I'm here asking.

I also posted this in the klunkers & mountain bikes thread. Thanks for any information.
 
most of my bikes are bmx style, the one i put the most faith in for trails has chromoly bars, chromoly 1 1/8 fork, billet stem, solid aluminum seat post, and chromoly tubular 3 pc crank. is it really necesarry, i dont know. im no lightwieght but i like the piece of mind, and im not doing anything too crazy.
 
I was thinking chromoly, simply because the frame is so heavy. I have to go to my LBS tomorrow, I'll see what I can find for forks and seat post.
 
I have built a few klunker/bmx what I run into is the low BB on the cruiser style frames, crank arms longer than 165mm clearance issues. I have better luck with MTB frames with vertical dropouts or find a 26" bmx cruiser frame (money). I usually run freewheels no experience with the coaster brake stuff
Like to see the build as you progress
This is a Schwinn I did few years ago
20160513_080100.jpg
 
Not to be a shameless shill, but many Worksman's use a proprietary headset in order to force you to buy it from them (33.5mm ID on the headtube if I recall). If you want to convert to threadless (here's the shill part) you'll have to have someone machine a standard 1 1/8" threadless set down to fit, which I happen to do :)
 
I'm still poking around for parts.
I did have to use a shim to get the stem to fit when I built the frame up for the world earth z build, we'll see what I can come up with.
 
LukeTheJoker said:
Regarding hubs:
If you want to run Coaster, do yourself a favor and get a Shimano 110 or copy and do the hotrod work to it, easily the best offroad coaster...
Click to expand...
Do you have a link to the work you're talking about?
 
Finally got a chance to watch that video, I'll have to check my Shimano hubs.
Although I wonder how well these mods would work on a redband, I have plenty of those.
 
Falstaff said:
Finally got a chance to watch that video, I'll have to check my Shimano hubs.
Although I wonder how well these mods would work on a redband, I have plenty of those.
Click to expand...
No idea?
I did mine on a Falcon hub and it worked great, needed different amounts of bearings was the only difference, so provided it works in the same way (i.e. sliding cones and not the ones with friction discs) it should work...
 
LukeTheJoker said:
No idea?
I did mine on a Falcon hub and it worked great, needed different amounts of bearings was the only difference, so provided it works in the same way (i.e. sliding cones and not the ones with friction discs) it should work...
Click to expand...
It has the cones, I'll give it a try. I have a redband that needs rebuilt anyway.
 
I looked back at your build, even watched that video. I don't remember them saying anything about angle.
I'll watch it again to see.

I know it's basically just enough to let grease flow between the shoes and hub.
Makes me wonder if chamfering both sides of the shoes is a bad idea.
Not that it would help.
 

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