my full hubless project

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First off, this is freekin' awesome, and extreemly innovative, so much that i want to do this to my bike. so it would help me out tons if you explained how exactly you eniginered the rear, and how you got it to spin while staying on the "track" that you had made, and could you explain how you did this also? this would help me tons, an the oly diffrence is that im going to sandwich the cog in-between twon Schwinn chopper rims and have two tires on it.
 
Awesome engineering skills for sure! I think the track for the front wheel should be coverted to a magnetic induction motor likt they have on the high speed trains. :p
 
a little up :

http://youtu.be/LKdAQEJ2Oyk?hd=1

and the hubless thdudesign R&D team :

acteurtxt.jpg
 
I wonder it the crank chain ring where bigger it would change the gearing to ride better.???? More tork to push the bike to roll..
 
This is really cool, but I am with everyone else on how the heck you attached the tires and made them spin/stay on.

Nice work, throw some taller bars on it though you're hurting my back!

-Moto
 
I think the secret is double tires with a slight gap in between them. A part of the frame and a part of the fork sneaks in between each tire and is welded to a solid, non moving outer rim that you can not see. then, an inner wheel with no hubs (which you can see inside the tires) rolls inside of the non moving outer wheel on bearings. this inner wheel must be hour glass shaped to hide the outer non moving wheel and to allow the tires to have a mounting surface.
so think of it this way, a solid outer rim which is part of the frame and forks and is solid, with an inner rim that spins inside of that outer rim.
I'm not saying this is how he did it, but it's how i think he did it.
look at how those little fender looking things are really close to the tires.
those could be where the non moving outer rims are welded to the frame and forks.
I don't know, just observing the bike and thinking this might be how it's done.

after i wrote this i went back and read the other posts.
I had no idea that he posted how this was done uyntil after i wrote this.
Looks like i was right.
 
Araya51 said:
I wonder it the crank chain ring where bigger it would change the gearing to ride better.???? More tork to push the bike to roll..
if you want easier peddling (lower gearing) change to a smaller front sprocket not a bigger one.
a small front sprocket (36 tooth for example) and a big rear sprocket (19 tooth for example) would be compairable to 1st gear on a 10 speed bike. low gearing, easy to pedal, lots of torque on take off, but low top end speeds once you get peddling. it will wind out pretty quickly
a bigger front sprocket (44 tooth for example) and a smaller rear sprocket (16 tooth for example) would be compairable to 4-5th gear on a 10 speed.
hard to pedal on take off, low torque but lots of top speed.
I have no idea what size sprockets he has on this bike, but i would guess that the front appears to be a 44 tooth maybe.
if he dropped to a 36 tooth in the front it would be much easier to pedal, but the top speed would suffer.
but with a bike like this, you just have to cruise at a slow speed anyway. this would allow easy peddling at slow speeds, but you'll tire out quickly.
 
It looks to me like it's too easy to pedal, look at how fast he has to pedal to get started. I would think that a larger front sproket would be the way to go. It may be harder to pedal, but It would allow you to get a faster start and would become stable faster. Is my thinking backwards on this? Gearing always confuses me. BTW awesome project, what alot of work.
 
@pedal scraper

Congratulations, from what I understood from your text, I think you understand the operating principle

you win: the first view inside 8)

P1070282.JPG


currently, i'm not worry with the gearing, i have to find the better way to ride it smoothly and I'm still not satisfied with the behavior of the bike, I still have to test new ways to attach the wheels and other technical drivetrain to select the most effective
 
hi, will I wake up this old topic ...


for my bike , i take a little ride of . . . 10 m and i see because of the design ( grrr... i hate design ) of the rear part of the frame ( too close from the tire ) when I pedal, the frame is deformed and touch the tire and that brake ! more I pedal, more that brake :?

and my fork is too complicated and not enough rigid to pilot easily my front wheel :|

the answers : just rebuilt the frame and the fork ! :mrgreen:

Now, changes :

before :

P1050281.JPG


after :

P1060770.JPG


now, the rear frame is more rigid and so, the wheel is easily detachable from the frame :p

P1060787.JPG

P1060769.JPG


the fork is as simple as possible

P1060794.JPG

P1060797.JPG


i show you the great workshop where I work :mrgreen:

P1060748.JPG


with my friends 😉 :

P1060723.JPG

P1060799.JPG


okay, okay, but perhaps the most important : i can ride it ?

good, then it becomes problematic, between theory and practice, there is a world
again, I put so much time to design and manufacture especially (with the errors, I make several times the same parts) that I have almost never time to test the bike
over my digital camera passed away and it took a disassembly / reassembly for full resurrects :shock:

short videos I've recovered :

entire view of the problem :) :



me, not very easy :roll:



and my son who quit his z1000 to ride it



for sure, there will be a maximum of adjustments and other development to be done to make this thing riding easily :p

maybe in 6 month ? 8)

presentation.jpg

I love the concept here with the hubless and the style is long and low just the way I like them :) good hub job...
 

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