modern board track racer, special design by me
- Thread starter jj256
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i agree with of all BEAUS suggestions..and man!..your good with design analyzation....well..i'm not good as beaus..but..before mounting up your engine...try driving your btr bike with pedal power only...go as fast as you can...and i know a thing for sure....you'll find it hard to to drive straight...and when you start to go wobbly you'll find it even harder to control your steering...my suggestion is it's better to move the wheel axle near the fork at least to have more stability with it's steering...
Hello everyone, I have been working on my "deathtrap", and made some minor improvements:
, I have raked the front end more, plated it all way around, tried to move the pivot(some what worked), new tires, seat pan, and rear pulley. What's next? :?: :idea: :arrow:
I hate to say it but I think you still need to redesign your head tube angle. I added some lines to the picture below for illustration; the red lines represent what your current set up is, notice how they don't cross above ground level? The green lines are sort of an exaggerated version of what would be ideal. Notice they cross well above ground level, if you were to measure the distance between each line where they touch the ground after they cross you get the "trail" measurement. Your current set up has negative trail, meaning the lines don't cross above ground, you should be shooting for 2" - 5" of positive trail, the more you have the easier it is to keep the bike straight at speed, the way your set up is currently I'd bet you will have a very hard time keeping control of the bike at any speed above 15-20mph. Hope this helps and your bike is a success.
I forgot to add, the lines are construction lines, one should pass through the center of and be the same angle of your head tube and the other should be perpendicular with the ground and pass through the center of your front axle.
Well since the last time, I have went to a solid rear end(the rear is being used on another bike). When I was changing the rear end, something funny happened. I took the shock out and lowered the rear end, and my head to went back, way back. So when everybody on here was telling me to change my head tube angle, well it more than happened.
hum, i drew a board tracker today when i was in class.. and it had a rear suspension kinda like this but was a looptail.. huh..
cool bike though man, just inspire me even moreso to finish my stingray -motocycle.. so i can get to school quicker and not be late so often :roll:
urg, it just getting money for projects without having a job gaah..
cool bike though man, just inspire me even moreso to finish my stingray -motocycle.. so i can get to school quicker and not be late so often :roll:
urg, it just getting money for projects without having a job gaah..
It honestly still looks like you will have negative trail from the pictures, the best thing to do is to actually measure it in real life on the bike though. Just run a line through the center of your head tube and another line straight down through the center of your front axle. If they cross, great, measure the distance on the ground between the two lines and that is your trail. If they don't cross than you either need to angle the head tube more or take some of the rake out of your fork or both. I hope you don't think I'm picking on you, I just want to help you not get hurt if I can.
The fork has nothing to do with it. It' the Head tube angle and the length of the rocker arm. If you try to steer it right now the fork/wheel is not going to flop side. It's going to swing side to side.
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