(MBBO4 Class 1) SixtyNine Spyder: All Done!

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Here's some 7/16 ones. I think that's the OD of the outer flange and they should be 1/4 ID.

https://www.fabric.com/buy/0340170/dritz-eyelets-7-16-brass?&cm_mmc=Google-_-Products-_-Products Listings-_-0340170&CAWELAID=172000510000260834&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=172000510000278002&cadevice=c&gclid=COyAvPP0uMkCFUKXgQod2PsNtg

and here's some listed as 1/4 inch.

https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/d...w|pla|pmt|e|&gclid=CLWzxP31uMkCFdgYgQodaP0AaA

Kind of confusing to order unless they list the OD and ID both but I think if you went to a fabric store you'd find them.
 
You do great detail work bro.
Definitely worth dozens of dollars... :rofl:

Carl.
 
They don't fit well, but I think I pounded them into enough submission that they hold in there enough. When they're on the bike you won't see them anyway, so as long as they protect the vinyl from getting screwed up too much, I'll be happy.

ghkUI3.jpg




The two halves don't meet up to really connect, so you can see some "junk" inside the hole. But, again, this won't be seen when the bike is built.

6NYBir.jpg
 
Two halves? Hmm, I've never seen an eyelet with two halves...
One half in the die rolls it's edge up... weird. You sure you got that right?

Carl.
 
Two halves? Hmm, I've never seen an eyelet with two halves...
One half in the die rolls it's edge up... weird. You sure you got that right?

Carl.
I had been searching for "Grommets" and that's what I came up with. Your post I quoted gave me an idea. I searched "Eyelets" and found some I think will work better. They also have them in antique brass, and those have serrated edges on the back, I'm assuming to make it easier to spread them open. But I think antique brass would look weird. Of course, it's going to be covered up on the install, so maybe that's the way to go.
 
Yeah the eyelets are the one piece and grommets have the washers in the back...I think..I was looking at eyelets that said they were 1/4 ID and that they were 1/4" deep. Then the back spreads out like little teeth.
 
Yeah our Menards and Lowes both have a decent assortment of eyelets. I was looking at them the day after I first saw your posted pic, and thought to myself, well there they are if I ever need them.
I also think silver sharpie would take care of the brass, it wouldn't be chrome but it wouldn't be brass anymore either...

Carl.
 
The polishing continues. If I haven't mentioned it, I polish every nut, bolt and washer on my restorations. It's extremely labor intensive and time consuming, but I'm kind of OCD in that way, and if I'm restoring a bike, then it has to have everything polished as best I can.

Here's one of the brakes. I finished both tonight. I forgot to take a "before" pic, but it was really dirty, there was a good bit of rust, and the rest had some corrosion. Well, not anymore.

PNJdAy.jpg


FowkcR.jpg
 
I sluffed off all my other work today and just polished. I have it all pretty much done. I tried something new with the fenders. The braces were corroded, dull and dirty. So I decided to drill the rivets and clean the fenders and braces separately. Unfortunately I again forgot to take a "before" pic. But here's some "after". You can also see the polished chain guard and handlebars back there.

RvEu4f.jpg



A look at the reinstalled braces
9yYMsx.jpg



And how I reinstalled them: Fender bolts. They worked really well! (I just hope the tires clear, but they should be ok.)
6rJ86p.jpg
 
Chrome is looking good! Looks like if you kept sanding you might get that shifter back to white, how far to go would be the question though...

If you are painting it, I would definitely recommend a two part epoxy paint for high wear resistance...

Luke.
 
I like to use majic or is it magic brand paint. Its a farm implement paint in a rattle can, pretty tough stuff.

I used the white for stormtrooper.
 
I'm sure you'll get it figured out, you always do really great work on these builds.
 

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